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Sol

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Everything posted by Sol

  1. what should i bring up thin fingers if i want to sew it up?
  2. it's off to the right just around the corner from the Pumphouse proper: in between the pumphouse and a trad route with one bolt (don't know much about it). where did you find the crux on the pinch to be?
  3. Good to know about the biners clogging up the space DFA. Fortunately all the hangers that i had bolts on could also accompany a quick draw at the same time (that's what i did). i don't really care that people are taking my biners, i leave them only for mere convienence, i just wanted them to know their story. the cool thing is that the hardest route at the crag, Pinch of Death, 12d, seems to be getting climbed regularly. cheers to whoever's sending that on the daily. As for stick clips, i'm just too much of a trad climber to get into those shenanigans yet. but maybe its time to turn to the dark side. sure would speed up the aid game. sol
  4. oh shit. somehow i knew some story like that was going to come out of this. yeah, cheers. ha ha. we didn't lose anything that day, except out sobriety.
  5. the rope is part of a 5.13? project that some glacier locals have been working.
  6. I don't know who's taking the bail biners off my personal projects up at Baker rocks but you should be forewarned that all the biners i leave up there have been retired from my rack because of wear, droppage, sticky gates, or whatever. the only thing i use them for is lowering off of 35 ft sport routes that i can't get up. i could be able to understand if someone is offended because they think its litter, but i would not use any of those biners for any truly important applications. as i am still a ways from finishing all of the routes in the pumphouse, i will continue to leave them. PM me if you want to chat. sol
  7. Thanks for the killer beta Nalo. norsky, yeah, that's me. do you know jimbo?
  8. actually my mom just sewed them to my jacket with a string, but it broke when your mom was ripping my clothes off.
  9. Don't know what's going on down at mt rainier but i was touring around mt baker yesterday and this is my two cents. There is a pretty considerable windslab on w to nw facing slopes. slab layer is around 8-9 inches with lighter powder snow beneath it. layer was breaking easy through ski cuts and even through probing. high winds over the last few days have caused considerable variabilites depending on the aspect and terrain (wind slab, wind scour, powder, crust). i think things will be sliding and consolidating as the warm weather moves in today. a few natural slides were present on the nw facing slopes at the base of table mtn yesterday (blueberry chutes).
  10. thanks for the info. check your pms.
  11. Thanks for the info. In your opinion would one need to place gear or did the bolts appear sufficient?
  12. Any other info? Somebody has had to climb those routes. Anyone?
  13. is that for san juan wall or hanging loose. why?
  14. Getting psyched for spring up in bellingham. For some reason I have recently been motivated to start climbing at the chossdome known as the Bat Caves. I've got a couple of questions. How big of gear should i bring for the second pitch of Hanging Loose? Also, any of y'all ever climb the 3 pitch route San Juan Wall? Wondering first, if its worth climbing, and two, does the second or third pitch require any gear? I have heard that it is adventerously bolted on the second pitch, any thoughts? thanks, sol
  15. I think i lost a blue OR windstopper glove at index a few weeks ago, if anyone has seen it or picked it up give me a pm. thanks, sol
  16. does anyone know where i can get my aliens rewired in bham. I've heard of some machine shops in town that will do it, i just forgot which ones. thanks
  17. NO, pull the pin and replace it. If it looks like you will destroy the placement by funking it out, use other means. If nothing will work, clip it with a screamer. What it you put a bolt next to each of the 12 or so very old fixed pins on the triple roofs pitch of Town Crier? Likewise, the 2nd pitch of Green Dragon (crux)would be completely dumbed down it the 3 or 4 old pins at the crux were replaced with bolts. The anchors on top of the first pich of Narrow Arrow Direct, and the anchors on top of the second pitch, are in dire need of chains. Currently they are composed of massive amounts of tat which makes the bolts quite difficult to use. Word on the street is that both Abraxas, and The Golden Arch could use upgraded anchors. on your quest to upgrade.
  18. The gully that starts down from the base of the orange wall is called "death gulley" and eventually reaches shady hollow. I am experienced.
  19. I think there is a city or rocks in Idaho as well as one in New Mexico.
  20. The only time I spent in New Mexico was a crazy job in Clovis( the shithole of the state) climbing 300 ft power-generating windmills. We spent a month in clovis and determined that there was no climable rock around that area(SE corner of the state). While spending a couple days in Albequerque before flying home, we climbed at an area called U-mound right in Albequerque. U mound is pretty much a bouldering area made up of 30-50 very sharp granite boulders. though bouldering ain't my thing, after a month with no climbing U mound was a ton of fun (Better boulderin than anything up here in b'ham). We met some cool locals who we ended up climbing and partying with for a couple days. though no destination, u mound is worth the stop if your in the area. the locals told us about a place called El Rito, that I beleive has sport routes on some kind of funky conglomerate, as well as the alpine routes of the the Sandias(?) mtns. i.e. Warpy Moople.
  21. because he slogging to the base right now and he wants the route all to himself. just kidding, who knows?
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