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Everything posted by Sol

  1. So psyched for my boy!!

  2. Lowering off sport anchors

    I'd say best practices are for the leader to either leave two draws for the initial lower and any subsequent topropes. Then the final climber cleans the draws and lowers through the fixed anchor, minimizing wear. Even easier: have the leader clip into the two cold shuts, then add a single biner to either the left or right bolt hanger and clip into that, effectively decreasing the wear on the two cold shuts by taking the load. Last climber simply pulls the single biner and lowers off via the fixed anchor.
  3. Routes You Don't Onsight

    L-Town: Zweibles, Rainshadow, Shriek of the Mutilated. Index: Fifth Force (CLICK) , Bat Skins, Spooner, Natural Log Cabin, P4 Japanese Gardens.
  4. Found: Rock Shoes

    They must not fit you or any of your friends.
  5. So sorry to hear this news. Condolences to yourself and your family Lowell.
  6. [TR] Enchantments - Acid Baby 7/11/2015

    Aaron's got the beta. Easy and quick secret squirrel descent to the base. No up and over, no top of Aasgard, but you do miss out on the frolicking in the meadows on the plateau.
  7. WAsome! Tim's Flake looks like Pickets stone at its finest! Thus far I nominate you for choss-dawg of the year.
  8. Trip: Les Cornes - Springbok Arete Date: 8/1/2007 Trip Report: Last week we climbed the celebrated Sprinbok Arete in the Anderson River Valley of BC. What a route! It was my second attempt after adventureboy and I failed to even find the river valley last year. We left bham in the early afternoon on wednesday figuring to have plenty of time to make the approach and bivy near the base. Unfortunatly it was like a waking re-occuring nightmare, and we spent many hours wandering around on the wrong logging roads, lost, trying to make sense of it all. Luckily it all came together, and we made it to the roadside, bug-infested bivy around sunset, intent on now climbing car to car. A 5 am start saw us alder-ing our way up to the base which wasn't nearly as bad as others have made it sound. A little schwacky but its short, there is a path to follow, and you gain very little elevation. The Arete from the base: I started us off on the first block. Four mediocre pitches and a bit of simul-climbing brought us to the base of the fierce fingercrack of pitch 7 (McLane), where we swapped blocks. Scenic: Tyree lead on up the hard 5.9 fingercrack and the off-width, but whoops, ended up on the wrong wide crack. We climbed a clean long off-width to the right of where we were supposed to be. After fucking around for a little bit we rapped off a nut back to the route. Ty smoked the orange head wall pitch hooting and hollering, having a good ol' time. Awesome and steep. Flakes, fists, and hands: The quality of the rock kept on improving as we continued on via a fun flake traverse. I took over for the 10c fingercrack, and the immaculate 5.9 layback and elegant slab above. Quality: Ty took us to the summit from there via never-ending finger locks. A quick pound and we moved on to the au cheval. "Gut-churning" Compared to Gato Negro the descent was casual. The worst rap was prolly the first one. And the running water was well appreciated. 4 raps and some downclimbing brought us back to the base. Overall we did the route in 10 pitches with some simulclimbing. Car to car in 15 hours. Its the best route i've climbed in BC and lies somewhere in my top 5 favorite alpine rock routes. The grades are nice and stout. Highly recommended. Because you can never get enough Steinbok: Gear Notes: Twin 60's. Rack of doubles to #2, singles through new #5. Couple RP's. Approach Notes: Dont ask me.
  9. WTB: Black Alien or Gray Metolius

    I'll sell you a black alien. I'll send you a PM.
  10. Fer sure, it could definetly be a FA or portions thereof, but it seems like every few years someone does a new FA on Prusik which makes me think it's all been climbed before. Nonetheless like you said, it's the experience not the documentation that counts!
  11. Nice work! Looks like a great weekend. I imagine that much of the new route you guys did was climbed in the late 80's by Fred Yakijlic. Fred put up four routes in the Solid Gold vicinity including the likely FA of Solid Gold. This is what Dberdinka wrote in my original Solid Gold TR : You shouldn't let that take away from your adventures though. Like Wayne and party on Solid Gold, you can't fake the thrill of climbing into the unknown on lichen covered white granite! Big ups to Mr. Yakijlic for throwing down back in the day!
  12. Any intel on the rescues at Colchuck/Dragontail?

    Impressive work Chelan County Mountain Rescue Assocaition!
  13. Hyperspace Rockfall Incident Saturday

    Surprising amount of loose rock on that route despite the popularity. There's been a few flakes up above the chamber that have been poised to come down for a few years. Belay beyond psychopath is still cleaning up after being obliterated from natural rockfall a few years back. Lately I've been drawn more and more to obscuriites and in consequence rarely, if ever, do I climb below any other climbers. Definetly a thing to consider.. I'd be interested to hear the details of the rockfall as well. I'll be up that way later this week and could check route condition.
  14. Thin Red Line Washington Pass

    I was also going to suggest upper town walls at Index. If you do get on Thin Red Line, I would do your best to avoid nailing as it is just as popular these days as a free climb. Though roadside, TRL is going to have some alpine characteristics to it that may be right up your alley or might be more then you want to deal with. Snowy approach, possible moat issues, once the "wall" portion of the climb is done a moderate 5th class finish that would be hellish to haul, and a straightforward though alpiney descent. That being said, the views and the environs up on that wall are all time. Lots of bigger stuff a bit north at Squamish including Uncle Ben's, Cowboys and Indians, etc..
  15. Solo TR Setups?

    I use a Petzl Microcender for my top piece and a Petzl Micro-traxion for the bottom. I like the Micro-cender as it uses cam instead of teeth. Being the top piece it is the only one that gets waited in falls. Call me old school but I never liked the idea of possibly taking dynamic falls with a toothed device onto a rope. I keep it oriented using the stretchiest thera-bands. I like the Micro-trax on the bottom because it's light, feeds well, and makes a great hauling pulley for lightweight mini big wall freeclimbing.
  16. Bugaboo timing question

    I'm thinking last week of july first week of august in hopes of a key water supply at an on route bivouac. Basically a couple weeks earlier than is the traditional bugs "greatest proabability of good weather window." Besides my specific water requirement travel through the bugs didnt seem like it would be particulary hazardous when melted out, but likely a bit more tedious. It is impressive the infrastructure present up there, definetly a different system then down here in the states. The year we were up there the descent down from the main col had been rerouted d/t high rockfall by the rangers, with new bolted stations conviently protected from rockfall. All with info about the rerouting on kiosk signs at the come one come all applebee bivy site, kinda cool..
  17. Way to stick it out for the send!
  18. camping on icicle creek - what's open?

    Bridge Creek is open and free, first come first serve. Depnds on how big your trailer is though..