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bDubyaH

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Posts posted by bDubyaH


  1. from b'ham you could ride the ferry, then hitch from Haines, actually you would probably meet someone on the ferry (3 days)who would give you a ride, or fly to juneau or whitehorse and thumb it / hook up with local climbers/guide types (climbing/guiding school in haines), some of the rafting companies could maybe give you a lift as well


  2. definitely bevel th edges, makes a world of difference. also depending on what you will be climbing, i like to knock off the top of the pick as well. for example in the photo i would cut off the top left point of the pick. and put down some newspaper or you will end up with metal shaving all over your floor pitty.gif


  3. jjd in grad school we wrote a nice little macro that completely deleted then saved everything the person was working on the_finger.gif it was initiated by a happyface symbol smile.gif if that was pushed...boom everything was gone. we got a few people with it, but then started to feel sorry for the ones who couldn't figure out how to press save every now and then. cry.gif


  4. there is a route (hard 12) at the New that is so hard that you can't even get to the anchors (solves the whole problem of clipping while holding onto the chains). the anchors are open, so you pull up a bunch of slack, dyno, and fling the loop over the anchors, definitely earns the respect of your peers rockband.gif.


  5. don't know the names of any routes on ptarmigan, go over to akclimber.com and ask chad, he climbs out there quite a bit. oh, and there are still tons of fa's to be had (if that's your gig) just usually have to work a bit harder to get to the base.


  6. i believe he meant the NE face. The N/NW face is shown in the photo at the top. The NE face has some rockclimbs on it in the summer and becomes really interesting in "full" conditions.


  7. $20/hr...no cubes involved, only spotting scopes and an occasional encounter with a moose or maybe even a bear, with occassional boat rides thrown in as well. oh and i'm looking for roomates as well,


  8. we have a couple short term openings right now, got any biology experience? feel like hanging out in anchorage until the end of the year. oh yeah it's outside spotting beluga whales for good pay. they're you are, a job offer laugh.gif


  9. glacier that link is hilarious, i too have caused myself some troubles, by laughing at the guys in the jacked up truck w/huge tires etc. of course i do this while i'm on my bike, but i can't help it when they sit there and rev the engine. then i beat em off the line. haha...they must be driving fast to get a new larger tail pipe to make there truck louder. oooohhhh, impressive. fruit.gif


  10. guess i'm lucky as well, was just in china climbing and was looking forward to coming back to work. actually started working up a proposal for a new project while i was out in the mountains. plus we are going to have a company tele race team, or at least we are going to drink beers after we ski a gated course (poorly)! and everyone in my office is for the left so we have some great republican bashing daily to keep our spirits up thumbs_up.gif


  11. if the routes he likes are in fact choss piles, then that is fine form. hooks on occassion do blow out/chip holds. i wouldn't get on any classic lines as you could end up making some enemies (if they are out in the rain and notice, or your silly enough to talk about hooking up an established free climb).


  12. sweet a list i can add to! my most recent bad decision was a couple of weeks ago in China at 19,000' solo. got distracted by the lure of waterfall ice (verglass) and decided to climb the hard line instead of my original route. well ended up having to drop my pack so that i wouldn't pitch off the route. 5 minutes later while i barely held onto my perch i saw my pack still tumbling down the mountain, it had shot out the couloir, down the snowfield and was continuing on down the scree. long story short: the pack had my jacket/down, gloves, hat, food, camera, water, and axes. i had my base layer on, no gloves and needed to downclimb the verglas covered gastons i had managed to climb up, oh and i had left instructions to "not bother looking for me until morning" if i fell and hurt myself and couldn't get the few thousand feet to my pack i was a goner, cause a storm came in a few hours later.

    i don't have enough time to tell all the stupid things i have done in 12yrs of climbing but there are many! fortunately the only climbing injury other than gobies and the usual has been a torn tendon in my hand...which i got in a gym mad.gif


  13. first real one was on mt crosson (in the ak range) at the gendarm (10,000') summitted and headed back down in a day, had to stop and wait for the snow to firm up, as slides were a bit frequent due to the heat, no food, no tent, no bivy sack, no sleeping bag, 3 of us spooned to stay warm, had great views of denali, just before sunrise the snow was nice and firm, we got up and booked it back to kahiltna international to resupply (i.e. drink beer and whiskey and eat everything in sight) before heading over to mt hunter.

    #1 thing i learned on that bivy...take an extra pair of socks, i was pretty much warm except for my feet which froze from being soaked by 24hrs of postholing.

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