gnibmilc
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Posts posted by gnibmilc
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pretty good video. i'd heard the belays had been bolted years ago. wonder if so. one of the few worth getting in shape for...
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north ridge of fury.
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yes. and i'm pretty sure he was being chased by some chick named Tami.
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RE Anyone heard of Goode NEB being Soloed before?
The summit register several years ago had an entry from several years before from Croft (I'm 90% sure) that said "solo" with a second soloist.
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I had the pleasure of meeting Dave Mahre on his 70th birthday. He was sitting on top of Mt. Stuart telling stories!
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Nice work Chris!!!!! I look forward to the updated/new background information and first ascent stories. Those insights really make the Supertopo books standout and extend beyond.
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it's not as easy as it sounds. suck it up billcoe and give it a try...or are you too much of a girlipeewee.
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Juan,
That was us, the party of four Mountaineers. Interesting connection. I was the guy who tip toed out on the ice face and got some protection in. It seemed to me to be quite a bit steeper than 40 degrees, but, very good and fun and certainly a top ten climb in the range for me. Thanks for clearing the ropes! Almost vintage pictures? Post!!!!
The face looked much icier this year and looked to have much less snow on it for the same time of the year 6 years ago...but i don't know what are normal variations in snow pack/glacier size. i would guess that the angle of the slope varies year to year depending on the season and deposition.
with regard to warming, the only thing i'm sure of is that tax subsidies for SUVs isn't the right answer!
That was a great climb, and although at the time i wasn't keen about descending the west ridge, it was a very pleasing way to round out a semi-circumnavigation.
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J:
You just go ahead thinking the way you're thinking. Maybe try doing some reading along the way, however, and see if the experts (which I am not) can persuade you. Again, I suggest you read the latest issue of National Geographic, for starters. Whether it is a normal climactic change that is naturally in fast motion, or one that we are speeding up by our actions and inactions, or both, it is still not good for life here on earth, and I am by no means talking about its impact on climbing alone. I've been doing it for too long to assign climbing such great significance.
Juan
Juan,
I think we climbed the NW face of the N. Ridge of Forbidden the same time a half dozen years ago in late August?
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yOu can wear a helmet at Vantage but it isn't gonna help much if the whole column you are bear hugging topples like positive vibrations did.
that column was jacked by some jerks...it didn't fall over. if they cared about the safety of the climb, they could have anchored it to columns behind it. that was just advanced trundling by some bad actors.
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strong bouldering skills and shape are probably much more useful...
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yeah but at least I won't die with my pecker in a cross loaded pearbiner.
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Take a look at the DMM Belay Master sometime ( the one mentioned in the article). REI carries it. It is a manual screw gate type with a plastic clip that snaps over the locking screw ensuring that it cannot turn. Furthermore, the clip will not close unless the screw is completely closed. The clip divides the carabiner into two sections preventing it from rotating and thus avoiding a cross-loading situation.
I needed a new pear shaped locking biner and thought about buying the DMM, but finally went with the Petzl Triact. I wanted the keylock feature. Also, I thought the DMM locking clip would prove to be a pain in the neck. Certainly, if I used a figure 8 device, or a bod type harness, the DMM carabiner Belay Master might be the way to go.
The DMM Belay Master is good for climbers over 40 and stoners because it is nearly impossible to not immediately notice if it isn't locked. But it kind of sucks because you cannot use it directly into the harness, bypassing the the belay loop because there isn't enough room for the harness belt,etc. below the black plastic piece.
"bypassing the belay loop" can kill too.
"directly into the harness" at belt and legloops = automatic crossloading 
You must be getting something else caught in there. The Whilan's locker or similar and a typical harness seem to keep the carabiner and device and (potential) load direction colinear (in the right alignment to prevent cross loading). some of those mountie courses include overhanging rappels and catching high loads/impacts where cross loading would result in snapped hardware, but it doesn't happen (emperical evidence?). look again, i think you've got your daisy or something in there.
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Take a look at the DMM Belay Master sometime ( the one mentioned in the article). REI carries it. It is a manual screw gate type with a plastic clip that snaps over the locking screw ensuring that it cannot turn. Furthermore, the clip will not close unless the screw is completely closed. The clip divides the carabiner into two sections preventing it from rotating and thus avoiding a cross-loading situation.
I needed a new pear shaped locking biner and thought about buying the DMM, but finally went with the Petzl Triact. I wanted the keylock feature. Also, I thought the DMM locking clip would prove to be a pain in the neck. Certainly, if I used a figure 8 device, or a bod type harness, the DMM carabiner Belay Master might be the way to go.
The DMM Belay Master is good for climbers over 40 and stoners because it is nearly impossible to not immediately notice if it isn't locked. But it kind of sucks because you cannot use it directly into the harness, bypassing the the belay loop because there isn't enough room for the harness belt,etc. below the black plastic piece.
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or buckner?
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it may go something like this:
party of three climbing full north ridge of forbidden, not to be confused with the nw face variation of the n ridge of forbidden. guy breaks at least one ankle, maybe a compound fracture or two (some bleeding). two climbers make their way back out and they come accross a group of mountaineer.org climbers in the afternoon on saturday, borrow a phone and call in the location of the hurt climber. he was below the intersection point of the nw face variation, as indicated by the snow/ice slope (which looks to be in very nice shape!). they dropped him a radio on Saturday late afternoon and talked to him. picked him up on Sunday morning/afternoon and took him to the doctors. don't think they landed on the ridge, only got close to drop radio and haul him. the pilot does have a sense of humor as indicated by saying hello to my partner as he shat on the hill side there on the plastic composting wc...although he may not initially have known what he was seeing as he approached. they ought to put no slip footing on that thing or tilt it up hill before someone slides off. need i drift. haven't heard how the guy is doing. i hope well.
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i know. i'm just a little chapped about falling off angel several times last weekend. i curse the slippery angel.
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Grease? you want to squeak about grease? get on Angel next door! Got to agree Damnation is one of the best around here in that 5.8 to .9 range.
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i used a cheap pair of (flexible) ASIC cross country running shoes that accepted screw in spikes to climb the north ridge of stuart. no problem at all. but that climb is perfect for cheating since the distance and one time crossing on ice is well suited to this type of tactic. the dirt comes out easily if you just smack the shoe against a boulder. seems like the strap on is a better option for "on/off" applications and slightly more technical terrain and longer outings. the cross county shoe alone can allow brusing of the bottom of your foot and isn't too stable when scrambling.
nice concept.
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#11 Hex (corded).
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what about that pink camelot size depicted in the supertopo cam size chart?
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Hey good job TimL! Glad you got up there... Did you notice the potential for the other spires? next time.
Be careful out there
in Climber's Board
Posted
some notes from days of teaching gear climbing (same stuff maybe stated just a little differently):
-when learning to place gear, place some at ground level and jump up and down on it with a sling. yep. just like basic aid climbing...the old bounce test. (this IS hard on the gear). a person may learn a lot about how gear settles in when loaded. and remember that your gear may not be loaded in the purely downward direction when you fall. the rope may pull it outward first and rotate the piece around and not load it the way you thought it might.
-as it turns out, we don't all have the same aptitude to anticipate what is going to happen to gear placements when loaded by a fall. our minds have varying abilities to see how the gear will be loaded and what will happen when it does. some people can see forward very well while others must learn by experience (see above). some never learn very well.
-tug tests well leading are smart tests. the gear may settle in a bit and show it's weakness or just give that nice reassuring sound of a good placement and snap of the sling or draw. this habit may help your head.
-double up gear at critical placement points to reduce the chance of decking.
-wear gloves when belaying many people have let go when the burn get's bad. good job to the belayer for holding on.
-climbing is dangerous. and even when you think you've got it all figured out, unusual and dangerous things can and will happen.
-get experienced and have fun climbing.