LYleK

Here's a pic

Follow-up: I tried the Petzl's Clipper leashes and BD Androids before going with the BD Viper Androids for my '03 Quarks. While I'm sure the Petzl system functions adequately, I wasn't crazy about the clunky clip system. It just didn't feel like it had the same snap-in security of the Androids. Plus it seemed like a long way up to clip in (as per Fern's comments). I went with the BD Android Viper (bolt-on) option so I didn't have to thread leash and pipe-clamp, it just seems cleaner. The retro-fit was very straight-forward; I used the existing holes on the 2003 Quarks; The location seems natural as the "clip" hangs about 5cm lower beneath the bolted fixture, plus I wanted to limit the # of holes drilled. I drilled out the existing hole (2 drillbit sizes larger), and adding a second smaller hole above the first to fit the plug (keeps the fixture from turning on the axe). I picked up a couple of longer bolts from the hardware store to finish the job, and now they're itching to scratch! Thanks to all above for your feedback.

Why The Long Face? - Good for a bigwall sport route. On of my favorites was a sugggestion from Don_Serl a few years ago: "Butro-Butros Gully"

I'd guess $200 to $250 for pair (half of new), depending on condition. Used technical axes get scooped up pretty quick as there's lots of people who want to give it a try but aren't will to shell out the $500 for a new set. And there's not a lot of people selling used as you can get a lot of years out of your axes if you're only hanging on them a few times a year (and it's easy just to replace picks).

Okay, here's my two cents: If you're looking for a good, used technical axe for WI2 to WI5 then go for the Quasars. As a beginner you CAN'T go wrong with them. I've used a pair since they were released (1996?) and loved them the whole time. The curve is great (never bashed my knuckles), they rarely stick, they're good for hooking and have a nice balance. They "plunge" just fine on steep snow slopes. I've just sold my Quasars to upgrade to Quarks, so this isn't a sales pitch. And while they might weigh a bit more than the newest axes, you'd be hard pressed to find a better performing axe to learn on. I've noticed a few secondhand Quasars around for a good price, I'd go for it!

Just going from reviews and feedback, but I'm sure the "clipper" is fine, too. In the end I've ordered both from MEC and will post which one goes on the axes after I've had a chance to check them out.

Thanks for the pic, Alex, that doesn't look too bad. I preferred the idea of the connection being bolted through the axe, but the bolt hole and thread hole are just about at the same level on the shaft, anyway. I'm guessing the Viper bolt-on version of the Android could be used but will likely take some modification (drilling) on the tool and a longer screw; 1/ drill out the existing hole to fit main screw, and 2/ drill second hole to accomodate plate stabilizing plug. I'll stick with the standard Android leash.

Hey Alex, I figure I'll make the switch once I stop scaring the shit out of myself WITH leashes, so it could be a while. Actually I like the Ergo handles and design, and will go that way once the market settles; I think there's going to be some big innovation in the next few years. Personally, I'd like to see an ergo-handle that actually functions with a leash, but I don't think it's there yet.

I talked with Don today who remembered reading a thread on here about making the Viper Androids leashes work on Quarks, anyone remember it? I've done a few searches but haven't found it yet. I'd prefer the shorter Android leash, and it seems a bit more solid than Petzl "clipper" system. I picked up a set of 2003 Quarks from Coast Mtn. PG (their last set) for $185CDN an axe, v. sweet. Any help you can provide is appreciated. Lyle

yeah, just found it, thanks

http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/160559_avalanche13ww.html

I've just heard on the radio that 3 U.S. climbers were killed in an avalanche on Mt. Wilson, but no other info.

Here's a pic of the WI3 pitch on Boulder Ck (Bridge Canyon - Lillooet) that Brad led. You can see the open last pitch just above.

Is the Chinese Astroknot climb up from the old FS Rec site there (ie. above and left of the big avy gully?)? I noted obvious ice opposite boulder that looked like that in your pic, but though you guys were further to the west. It looked to be about the right size, but is above the cliffs after you come out of the tunnel so you'd have to traverse in from the right. It was worthy of keeping secret, esp. if it would have materialized, but it's all good. Ancient Chinese proverb: Never share ice-beta with West Coast climber who post 17,000 times.

Fern was sworn to secrecy early on in the evening, and given the backout option after I described the approach, and possibility that it might not even be formed. She was still keen though, so Brad and I joined her at 5:45am for the Cookhouse chokedown. They slept on the way out to the Bridge, and we stopped to talk to some guys racking for Night N Gale. I'd flown by Boulder Ck. a few years back and caught a glimpse of a cool pillar rising out of the hanging valley at the top. I thought Dru might have got a glimpse of it when he climbed Taikanaut (sp?) so thought I'd better get in for a look. So, with the mindset that Boulder Ck had to be the approach pitches we headed up. I have to revise the route description boxes on the map for Boulder. It was a plod up a gully for several hundred metres to a 20m WI 2, 35m WI2+, and 15m WI2+/3. Any ice on the approach to this was under snow. Thanks to they party that packed it out the week earlier. Fern led the first WI2 pitch, Brad jumped on the next one. It was open in the middle but looked good on the sides, but this wasn't the case. The basic make-up of the ice was: 1/ rock base, 2/ 3cm of air, 3/ 2cm good ice, 4/ 3cm compact snow layer, and 5/ 2cm of aerated snowcone. So after 3 marginal screws up the hollow veneer Brad crested and stopped. We couldn't hear him over the water noise, so didn't know what was up. He place a screw, pull it out, move down. Turns out he'd run out of ice and had to cross over the open water after stepping from hollow sheet to sheet, pretty sketch. He equalized two screws and made the move, but not before a big chunk of ice slap broke loose and shook the falls. He belayed us up from a tree(there's one at the top of each pitch). The final p. was wide open. We'd put the binoculars on it from the dam and it looked like there was a climbable ramp on the right, but this wasn't the case. So the intrepid Fern bashed off up the left ridge and we managed to find a rap-point into the top. So at this point Fern brings up the news that Kris W. has hiked up through the valley in the past and didn't find much for ice..."I thought you would have known..." she said I just hoped he'd missed the base of the route somehow, so decided to drop my pack and go for a recce. The gully was kneedeep for a bit, quickly becoming thigh-deep as I worked my way up. Fern and Brad worked their way up to the first open bowl, where I'd expected the ice. There was a 30m overhanging wall, with a fang hanging about 1/3 of the way down. Brad and Fern waited here as I pushed my way up. After walking up to the main hanging portion of the valley I was able to figure out the geometry of the valley versus what I'd seen from the air. The back of the valley has a slabby 1/2 pitch WI3, which Fern thinks Kris climbed on his venture. And I could see this from the air. So I'm pretty confident the pillar I saw is above the fang in the bowl, and the approach pillar hadn't formed. This part would have been hidden when I flew by, so don't know if ever does form, but there's a sweet pillar up there for someone if it ever does. At least I was able to get it off my to-do list, thanks to Brad and Fern for their efforts. We've informally renamed Boulder Creek Fall "Less Polar, More Circus" for the long ramble up the gully, but with less avalanche hazard and minimal ice. It was Brad's first trip through the Bridge (he was asleep on the way out), so gave him the tour of the ice through the Canyon. His comments were that there is still lots of unclimbed stuff to do, everything is surprisingly thin after the amount of cold weather, and everything seems to have a long, steep approach. Sounds like the Bridge On ice: Jade: Formed, looks like a big pillar from the road; Michelmoon: Had some big holes in the middle; Old Dogs: Looks anemic (sp?), still leadable; Steri-Strip: Way thinner than in the Pics shown by Don at the Legion, a mixed climb again; Trouble Waters and Drake: Look good; Silk Degrees: Not there; Silk Worm: Looks like it might be climbable; New Leash: Random Icicles; The Gift: The top is fat, the bottom pitches are v. thin pillars; Night N Gale: Looks fat and blue; Terzaghi: It looks in but thin.

I've been to the base 3 times, once with ropegun Serl (pic attached). Don made it a few moves past this point, but it was pouring on him so hard (and it was pushing -30C), that he backed off. There were icicles hanging off all his screws down to his knees. I did the same the other two attempts (actually once it was too heinous to mount), lots of icicles and wetness, not a lot of pro. It would be interesting if others have climbed it thinking it was New Leash...? So I'm guessing the Skinny Pillar belongs to one of the Three Sisters, it looks pretty cool.

Quote from Dru: "hey don despite the new snow and warm temps of a while back the skinny pillar "you know where" is still there" ___________________________________________________________ Hey, is that the highflow, 40m column/ flow between A New Leash and The Gift in the Bridge Canyon that's obvious from the road? I can't believe that thing hasn't been climbed yet It looks like there would be some great mixed routes to the roof just to the left of it, as well. Or maybe it's that little fang over the cave at the confluence of the Bridge and Yalakom Rivers...?

Another option is the rec centre (256-7527), they rent meeting rooms cheep. There are a couple of halls for rent on the Hop Farm, including the Masons and the Elks. The Curling Club has a good rental hall on the way up to T-Bird Heights from the Reynolds; Cpt. Caveman might remember crashing a RCMP/ Fireman Xmas party there... Actually, the Mile-0 has a good-sized meeting room downstairs that would be ideal, lots of white walls. Yah, kudos to Bernard, he tries hard to bring new tourist and development $$ to Lillooet, which has been hammered by gov't policy. Small Town BC>> <<Gordon Campbell

Hmm, looks like us interior climbers have got Lillooet to ourselves this weekend... Just read in the Lillooet News that the icefest is cancelled. Reasons given were lack of time. He's invited you all to his house for dinner though. Quote: "Schulmann said climbers who do show up on the Feb. 7 - 8 weekend will be invited to dinner at his home to "talk about ice climbing stuff."

Maybe we should call this game, "Stump The Master..." Fern rules. Here's another view of the same climb, taken from an adjacent ledge about halfway up the first pitch.

Last clue, this one will give it away: This is the approach pitch to a climb where you want to be "very strong."

Okay, new clue: It's the first of two pitches. The foreshortened view kind of throws the pic. This pic shows 15m/ 20m of ramp to the base of the pillar above, which is another 15m. This pitch is an easy WI4. The second pitch is not visible in this pic.

Getting warmer (maybe that's not such a good thing in this game...)

Nope. I'll narrow it down. Other side of the highway. And somewhere between 10km and 30km from CC

Hint: It's in the Duff. And it's not "The Straw..."