marcus
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Posts posted by marcus
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West face of Bear's Tooth 'White Russian' done in April ca. 2004(?). Check your AAJs...
Oh, and Sabretooths are pretty standard issue for AK. Horizontal frontpoints work best in the variable conditions you'll find there.
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Possible new route(?) at Pumphouse area: 'Tatras' 35m WI4 M5 is located directly above parking pullout, 200ft right of Pumphouse Blues on the Terminal Dysfunction cliffband. Climb TD, pull overhang to climb 25m ice & turf(stubbies, spectre and warthog useful) and belay off screws on ice above. Move belay 50ft left below ice dagger in prominent right-facing corner. Climb dagger and mixed to more classic gorge-style turf & ice. Rappel from large tree(slings) at topout(60m) or walk left to Pumphouse Blues anchors(2x30m).
No doubt that everything's probably been climbed before(yawn) and there's no ice in the gorge(double-yawn)...
Also climbed PB to Gathering Storm, however significant icefall while at base of upper pitches sent us packing. Cool line though - and well worth the hike!
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Way to ride em, boys!
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That's effing brilliant!!! Definitely a warranty issue...
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The old Nepal Top was such an awesome boot. When mine finally gave up the ghost, I was forced to check out a new pair of them fancy new 'Evo GTX'. But Sportiva has actually updated them in useful ways(lighter weight, trimmer fit) and they still seem to be a very bomber, reliable and sensitive 4-season leather.
There are way more nimble boots out there, definitely lighter ones available, and warmer ones too - but the Nepal Evo will climb anything that I can in the mountains and in any conditions. So it seems to be the one I'm using the most to bridge that gap between winter cragging and expedition climbing.
I know some A-team folks who use em on AK big rigs as well...but my toes are already just a little too numb to hazard that action.
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My score said only '18'...I felt so horrible, even weak...went to the park to ease my worries...ran to a group of them(just 10 or 12, I think)...CRUSHED THEM ALL!!! SO EASILY!!!
Feel much better now...ha! Stupid little kids.
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Unfortunately Mike has already started to let himself go:
...so sad! But Fat Country Mike will have a grand adventure in his new life as a U-tard!!
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From all the deep thoughts...
...and through the darkest hours...
...oh, how we've shared them all. Climb on, young warrior!!! Sob...sigh....
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MMA? Is that like 'Cage Fighters on Ice'??
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I'd like to meet myself...I mean really just get to know myself a little bit better. But you guys can come too!
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Way to go Moira!
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That is easliy one of the most awesome and inspiring climbing videos of ALL TIME!!!
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Nice job guys...has anyone been up to see how much snowfall was deposited in the area during the last couple of days? NOAA predictions seemed to vary qute a bit from 4-14"...
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Terrible news...so often accidents occur in places we'd least expect it.
Thoughts go out to Jim's family. Thank you for the inspiration and the pioneering spirit, Jim. You will be very sorely missed...
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So stoked...check it out: SWEET!!!
...sickness...omigawd...can't wait...
....omigawd...sweet. Sick...and sweet.
Dang.
NOTE: THE ORIGINATING POST TO THIS THREAD WAS WAS STEEPED IN A THIN VEIL OF SARCASM(HENCE THE 'SPRAY' FORUM HEADING) AND THUS ANY POSTS EXPRESSING GENUINE INTEREST OR GENERATING CONSTRUCTIVE DIALOGUE MUST BE TERMINATED IMMEDIATELY!
I feel sick now...(and sweet)...I think all those caps got me kinda pumped.
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Hmmm...kinda makes you think:
"While "Michael Layton" isn’t played in reverse as "Memento" was, its story line nevertheless is dense and fractured. And yet the way it ultimately maneuvers through its narrative makes for one of the year’s smarter movies.
George Clooney is Michael Layton, a chiropractor and fixer for the New York law firm of Kenner, Bach and Ledden, who is their go-to guy when it comes to freeing the firm’s spines out of a pinch. Though he can’t solve every problem — he admits he’s no miracle worker — Layton can rub away most "issues" that come his way, with the exception being those mushrooming in his personal life.
Over the course of the movie, we learn that Michael is divorced, that he has gambling and family problems, and that he is in debt to some unseemly types who want their investment money back for an online T-shirt business Michael failed to turn into a success. If they don’t see their money soon, Michael will pay his debt in other, less pleasant ways. This is the periphery that surrounds "Layton," darkening its mood while lies and deception rot the core from within..."
(Bangor Daily News)
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So stoked...check it out: SWEET!!!
...sickness...omigawd...can't wait...
....omigawd...sweet. Sick...and sweet.
Dang.
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A HUGE 'GRACIAS!' GOES OUT TO EVERYONE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO HELP MAKE THIS YEAR'S ICEFEST A BIG SUCCESS! WE ESPECIALLY WANT TO THANK:
*MARK WESTMAN FOR A STELLAR AND INSPIRING MULTIMEDIA SHOW
*ROGER STRONG OF BLACK DIAMOND FOR AMAZING ROUTESETTING AND SHARING THE PSYCH WITH US FROM DAY ONE
*GARY AND KEN(AND ALL THE PRG STAFF) FOR COORDINATING WITH US AND SUPPORTING THIS ANNUAL EVENT FOR CHARITY
*DARIN, JOSH AND THE CLIMBMAX CREW FOR ROCKING THE DEMO WALL IN STYLE
*KIM, CHRIS AND RYAN FOR VOLUNTEERING TO JUDGE THE COMP - AND BILL, MICAH, MAX AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO VOLUNTEERED THEIR TIME TO HELP RUN THE EVENT
*ALPINE DAVE FOR CRANKING OUT A BEAUTIFUL POSTER
*AND ALL THE SPONSORS WHO GENEROUSLY DONATED THEIR TIME AND MERCHANDISE TO SUPPORT OUR CAUSE...
(IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER)
BLACK DIAMOND
CLIMBMAX MOUNTAINEERING
GRIVEL
LA SPORTIVA
OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY
PATAGONIA
PETZL
U.S. OUTDOOR STORE
WE RAISED OVER $750 AT THE EVENT FOR THE SOUTHWEST MONTANA CLIMBER'S COALITION TO HELP SUPPORT THEIR STRUGGLE TO MAINTAIN WINTER ICE CLIMBING ACCESS TO BEAUTIFUL HYALITE CANYON, ONE OF THE WEST'S BEST ICE CLIMBING RESOURCES. WITH MATCHING DONATIONS PROMISED, THIS COULD EQUATE TO ALMOST $2000(!) GOING TO THE SMCC. HELLZ YEAH!!!
CONGRATS TO SCOTT(ANCHORAGE, AK) AND MERRIDY(SEATTLE, WA) FOR THEIR WINS IN THE MIXED CLIMBING COMPETITION
THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE AND WE'LL SEE YA IN THE HILLS...
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HEY ICE COMP COMPETITORS: DUE TO TIME CONSTRAINTS THERE WILL BE LIMITED SPACES FOR THE COMP THIS YEAR SO SHOW UP AT 5 O'CLOCK TO SIGN UP IF YOU WISH TO PARTICIPATE. ALL COMPETITORS WILL RUN AN INTERMEDIATE LEVEL QUALIFIER ROUTE AND THOSE WHO MOVE ON TO THE SECOND ROUND WILL GET A CHANCE TO CLIMB THE FINALS ROUTE LATER IN THE EVENING AFTER THE SLIDESHOW.
This is still a very homegrown, lo-fi, friendly competition for fun and charity. All prizes have been graciously donated by local shops and companies. We'll ask for a small donation of $3 to the Hyalite Fund to participate in the comp. So come on down and have some fun, show your stuff, and get some stoke on for the big freeze...se ya there!
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Thank the baby Jesus that you two crackheads finally have something to show for your summer! Papa was gonna make you get summer jobs pickin' berries next year if you didn't do something to make the family proud...
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Nice Blake!
What's the skinny on 'the other one'?
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Should be another great shindig this year! We'll have all the new sharps and toys available for show & tell, more fun comp route action, a big 'ol screen to show fancy pictures...and, of course free beer.
I expect all you smalltown heroes and local hardfolk to set aside a day come down(up) to PDX and climb, canoodle and raise some cash for charity with us.
See ya there!
Synchronicity-free solo
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
Nice job, Wayne. Way to maximize a 'couples' trip and sneak out for some action!