marcus
-
Posts
252 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by marcus
-
-
Dan! I sure hope your iPod was solid state and had a fresh battery charge...I'd hate to think of you stranded, skiing out there all alone without a decent playlist!!!
Any ice coming around on D-tail yet?
-
Are you guys digging out a second pitch there??
Sorry, no pics from this weekend's climbs, Bill - but I could sketch you an artist's rendition!
-
Robots are aid!!! I'm just sayin'...
-
Right on, Bryan & Craig...'Unclimbed B' gets an A+!
-
Excellent work Dan & Colin! Stoked that you guys got your route...
That was my first time up into the Colonial basin, after driving by many times along HWY 20. I'll be excited to get back there again and give that face another shot!
-
Nice work!
-
Just spoke with John and heard from Team Harro...they are all back in Boze.
-
-
A little haiku...
"Gorge ice, a precious treasure!
Two days driving, bare rock and snow
Crown Jewel? Slush consolation..."
The wet-n-windy Gorge classic was climbed today with 13cms and a little patience, so go get er - but please remember:
1) Respect RR property and hike in via Rooster Rock SP(~30min). Don't screw up access for everyone just because you're lazy!
2) Leave our cordelette and biner for others to safely rappel from(climber's right, 10ft past topout).
3) P1 bolt anchor climber's left on ledge, 40m(iced over - chop em out)
4) Neutral colored clothing attracts way less attention and hassle for everyone on this highly visible climb.
5) Call your mom and tell her you love her.
Here's what I've seen as of 12/16...
Cape Horn Gullys: Yes
Salmon Run: No
Strand: No
Pete's Pile: No
Starvin' Marvin: No
Ainsworth Left: No
Lower Mist Falls: Yes(but why?)
Kearney Route: No
Pump House Blues: Yes
Tatras: Yes
Black Dagger: No
Crown Jewel: Yes
Tunnel Vision: Yes
-
A new cc.com milestone: the pre-spray spray TR!
Excellent work Rolf and Dan...way to see it through, gents.
-
Really? OK...price lowered to $160!
-
$160 takes home this sweet pair of used ice/mixed tools. Fusions are one of the best performing drytooling axes out there...
From the BD site: "This is the premier tool for climbers pushing the limits of mixed climbing. The leashless Fusion is extremely stable, with a unique geometry that maintains an acute hand-to-pick angle to help eliminate pick-shift when you change grip positions. Engineered for precision, the shaft’s definitive curve allows exacting placement for dime-edge control. With a half inch of adjustability, the patented grip can be matched to hand size, whether you’re bare-knuckled or sporting gloves." Pick em up in PDX, or add $20 if I ship them to ya.
-
Hey Iceman: Don't forget to bring back yer '$5 ice trainer' for us humble junkies at the lab.
Check.
-
Yeah, word up to all the nut jobs, derelicts and ice junkies who turned out for another stumptown barn burner! Big muchas gracias to volunteers Kim Carlson, Jennifer Kellams, Bill Amos, Donnie Kolb, Paul Robinson and all the PRG employees too who manned the front lines and helped make the event run smoothly.
Now yer picks are all sharp and your swing is true...get er done!!!
-
Marcus! Thank you for bringing the flier to the Lab. Looks flashy
See you next week - No prob, PC - and my '$5 ice trainer' is @ HEL for all to use...Daniel?
-
Nice work guys - way to get after it!!
-
Its called the 'PDX Icefest' cuz we're a celebration of ice and mixed climbing and also a kind of pre-season gathering of the tribe. PNW ice climbers are way too hard-headed to let just a lack of ice stop us. Its about dusting off our ice axes, connecting with partners, training those swings and lock-offs, sharing stories and getting the stoke on! Its also a great opportunity for lotsa folks from beyond the climbing community to come check out something unique - if we called it the 'Mixed-fest' most folks probably wouldn't even know what what we were talking about...
Friendly comps, community building, free beer, good times and some schweet prizes all in the name of charity? C'mon...check the spray and come on down!
-
Kevin, where exactly on the BS face does your line travel? Are we talking about the central rib just left of Arachnophobia??
Good on you guys for tackling that daunting aspect of Hood, in summer no less - and thanks for sharing your info!
-
A 50m rope certainly saves weight and could expedite things - if you're simul-ing a great deal.
In addition to linking pitches, longer ropes could also mean fewer pitches/belays/changeovers, longer(single rope) raps - all of which can save time.
However, longer ropes might also mean more communication challenges, rope managment issues, and a potentially larger(heavier) rack.
60m ropes are pretty standard on many modern routes...perhaps a good place to start until you know enough about your own methods/style to tweak them a bit?
-
Actually PC, fast and steady wins the race! Slow and steady just finishes the race and gets the t-shirt...
Medical studies I dredged up last year around this question indicated that moderate exercise of one hour or less did not significantly impair recovery times from rhinovirus infections. So if your lungs are clear and you can take it back a notch, one should still be able to train moderately.
-
I went for this one: Olympus Stylus 1030 SW
...weatherproof, shockproof, lightweight 10.1 megapixel point-and-shoot. The only downside I've seen so far is the LCD-only viewfinder, so I got an extra battery. Used to have a weatherproof Pentax Optio - but that one didn't withstand abuse very well. We'll see how this one's 'shockproof' housing works...
-
'Sundevil Chimney' on the Titan
-
Thanks Jeff for all the hard work that you and everyone else obviously put into developing this awesome place, and your guidebook is an essential resource for the area - so hard to gauge the difficulty of many of those lines from the base without it.
My two cents? I think that the approach, grades, and nature of the climbing will always naturally limit the crowds at TC. And a guidebook without comprehensive directions is perhaps an incomplete resource. As most regional folks who are truly interested have already been there, it might really just open up the area to folks road-tripping and looking for a nearby Smith alternative. Not all of these folks are in with the 'cool kids' and might not have access to the info otherwise.
People in other climbing communities sometimes joke about us here in the PNW...how we don't have much rock, yet hoard it all like fool's gold. With a guidebook, route development and now magazine articles, Trout Creek will certainly continue to grow in popularity regardless. Perhaps now it is more a matter of how many 1000's of people will get to say that they are in the 'cool kid's club' before it is ultimately disbanded.
I was always fine with TC being under the radar before, and I applaud your careful efforts now to limit impact, respect private property rights and shape issues around access and development. Best luck to you. And just for the record: I didn't tell anyone!!!
-
Thanks for all the hard work, Kellie! As we all can see, working towards organizing climbers and their myriad voices into a cohesive lobby is no easy task. I for one appreciate that you have stepped forward to fill this challenging role for us as long as you have.
See ya at the crags!
Beacon closure ends when?
in Access Issues
Posted
From the sound of Joseph and Kevin bickering again...it must be spring!!!