marcus

Yup! Somebody pull my finger...quick!

Right on, guys! Way to get after it...

Once again...great job Darin at creativly finding the overlooked gems and potential beyond the 'classic' lines. And an award for daddy's best use of a kitchen pass! You rock, amigo.

Sounds about right for 50m ropes - but someone better ask him to update his commentary for them newfangled 70m ropes...

Whadda you guys talkin' about? I climbed ice all day in the Gorge!!! Either your screws are too long...or your vision is too short.

here it is: Petzl Sport - Goodbye Hari

I haven't heard or been able to locate anything about Hari Berger's accident. Does anyone have a link or more specific details about what happened?

Despite appearances, the travel plan as recommended would actually result in the road being gated quite far below the reservoir - and with no snowmachines actually allowed on the road. Snowmachines would instead be routed around the reservoir to the southwest in a longer, circuitous path. It would make day ventures into the canyon pretty challenging - regardless of your mode of transportation.

Dang!!! * keep doing pull-ups * catch up on the honey-do's * enter a wheelchair marathon * read all the Beckey's cover-to-cover(again!) * cure that tendonitus once and for all * mark your calendar four months from now ...and climb like an uncaged beast next spring!! (Oh...and you're dead to me now. )

Yocum in Mar '03: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=7&Number=150363&Searchpage=4&Main=10911&Words=Marcus_Donaldson&topic=0&Search=true#Post150363

Hey John - good to hear you're still out there! Spantiks(like most Sportivas) are definitely narrow, perfect for my foot, whereas the Vasque boots tend to be much wider. But look on the bright side: selling off them fancy shoes should pay for your whole airfare into the Range this year...where ya headed?

Hiked the Gorge this afternoon...things are coming along - though maybe not fast enough for this brief snap. Overall, higher water volumes on the bigger climbs are pushing ice off as fast as its growing. Look instead for mixed, corner climbs and seeps. I stood at the base of... Crown Point: No(slushy, 30degrees) Black Dagger: No(but proud!) Ainsworth Left: No(higher volume right now) Did not look at Starvation Creek or Salmon Run area...if anyone else has time to take a peek, I'd love to hear a progress report. PM me

try here:RMNP conditions

I just use a 6mm static. Its kinda squirrely - use a stuff sack rather than coiling/flaking - but works fine. Always rig the rap to pull the smaller cord. Makes a decent tag line as well...

Second-hand info here: but a pal who owns a cabin up near Cooper Spur told me yesterday that one can still access Cloud Cap via the turnoff down by Parkdale.

With the added rope managment involved in half/twin ropes(stacking, flaking, coiling, etc,) I find 60m to be a little easier to deal with. Keeping 140m of cord in good trim can require a lot of time and attention - possibly more time than I'd save. However, I still often use a 70m single on many alpine ice/mixed gigs, when there might be an opportunity to link shorter legs in several places. Then I just bring a thin cord in the pack for rapping. Gawd, you can tell the weather must be awesome and I must be effin' BORED...shop talk is fun!!!

The entire Leuthold is around 35-40 degrees - perfect grade for avis. However, since it is west-southwest facing, the couloir can be pretty scoured by direct winds. In our maritime weather, 24-48hrs after a significant snowfall things tend to settle significantly. Lots of terrain above(Yocum to the left, Upper Reid headwall to the right) can send debris down the couloir...so recommend a helmet and a cold(calm) day. Watch the Reid schrund low down, no significant slots above that. One tool and a ski pole, couple pickets and a screw if you're on a rope. Happy Hunting!

Vasque boots definitely have a wider footbed.

Nice job nabbing a roadside plum Mark! Of course Mike and I had considered defaming that very buttress this summer while bivi-ing at your creepy Unabomber cabin - unfortunately we stayed up too late watching your copy of the classic film "Ishtar" over and over again...did you leave that video out just to foil our attempt?

Awesome WW! Way to bring the props home!!! I haven't read anything that interesting in the NY Times since that article on wild elephants raping rhinos...

I just ground off all the sole lugs until I had a smooth surface to mount the poon on. Then, drill holes in the poon + boot - take out the insoles first. I used 3/8" bolts with locking nuts. For the heel: a small piece of 'L' shaped steel from the hardware store was cut to mount an extra front point upside down on the back as a heel spur(Of course spurs are aid!). Using and old pair of light boots and used poons, the whole thing took one afternoon and cost, including hardware, about $5.75.

Possibly the finest climbing photo of all time!!!

TESC Communications Bldg East Corner (Grade II, A5, ca. 70') Rack: Small cams, LAs, baby angles, cam hooks Best route in town!!!

Called BD this week about my one poon lost on Nooksack Tower last month - kind of a 'hail mary' before I plopped down $$ for a replacement pair. They dug a spare out and shipped it to me gratis that same day. Often hear about high-priced toys, poor R&D etc., but they were pretty effin' cool to this kid today. Thanks for letting me share...