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marcus

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Everything posted by marcus

  1. Stealth Training Suggestions

    I need more information on this "summit gift certificate" phenomenon. There are a couple summits that've been eluding me lately...i'd like to cash in one.
  2. Right on, guys! Way to get after it...
  3. [TR] Hall Peak - NW Face to N Ridge 1/30/2007

    Once again...great job Darin at creativly finding the overlooked gems and potential beyond the 'classic' lines. And an award for daddy's best use of a kitchen pass! You rock, amigo.
  4. Jeff Lowe quote?

    Sounds about right for 50m ropes - but someone better ask him to update his commentary for them newfangled 70m ropes...
  5. Ice in the gorge?

    Whadda you guys talkin' about? I climbed ice all day in the Gorge!!! Either your screws are too long...or your vision is too short.
  6. Ice Caves = Bad News?

    here it is: Petzl Sport - Goodbye Hari
  7. Ice Caves = Bad News?

    I haven't heard or been able to locate anything about Hari Berger's accident. Does anyone have a link or more specific details about what happened?
  8. Hyalite Canyon Access

    Despite appearances, the travel plan as recommended would actually result in the road being gated quite far below the reservoir - and with no snowmachines actually allowed on the road. Snowmachines would instead be routed around the reservoir to the southwest in a longer, circuitous path. It would make day ventures into the canyon pretty challenging - regardless of your mode of transportation.
  9. Dang!!! * keep doing pull-ups * catch up on the honey-do's * enter a wheelchair marathon * read all the Beckey's cover-to-cover(again!) * cure that tendonitus once and for all * mark your calendar four months from now ...and climb like an uncaged beast next spring!! (Oh...and you're dead to me now. )
  10. Yokum Ridge Stories

    Yocum in Mar '03: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=7&Number=150363&Searchpage=4&Main=10911&Words=Marcus_Donaldson&topic=0&Search=true#Post150363
  11. La Sport Spantik or Vasque Ice 9000??

    Hey John - good to hear you're still out there! Spantiks(like most Sportivas) are definitely narrow, perfect for my foot, whereas the Vasque boots tend to be much wider. But look on the bright side: selling off them fancy shoes should pay for your whole airfare into the Range this year...where ya headed?
  12. columbia gorge ice

    Hiked the Gorge this afternoon...things are coming along - though maybe not fast enough for this brief snap. Overall, higher water volumes on the bigger climbs are pushing ice off as fast as its growing. Look instead for mixed, corner climbs and seeps. I stood at the base of... Crown Point: No(slushy, 30degrees) Black Dagger: No(but proud!) Ainsworth Left: No(higher volume right now) Did not look at Starvation Creek or Salmon Run area...if anyone else has time to take a peek, I'd love to hear a progress report. PM me
  13. Denver Ice

    try here:RMNP conditions
  14. Climb: Nooksack Tower-North Face(Bertulis Route) Date of Climb: 8/28/2006 Trip Report: Darin(dberdinka)and myself hiked in to an awesome bivy with running water ca. 5800' on ridge. Recommend this over bivy sites at toe of route. Next morning 90 minutes across Price Glacier, contoured low to turn schrund on far right. Three belayed pitches off the deck to three simul-blocks and then three belayed pitches to finish. At P12 or P13 area we descended ledges west slightly in order to access "strenuous lieback crack" described in CAG - actually a loose corner(I think 'strenuous' refers to the mental aspect) that brought us to the upper ridge. Do not rap off slings on summit into wide couloir below! Instead downclimb ridge(150ft?) to first of many jinky rat's nest rap stations, trending first skier's left, then right. After about a dozen rope-eater raps, we came to the 'Beckey' couloir. To celebrate the ~1200ft of ice/neve we now had to descend, I launched one poon sailing into a bottomless moat and the other one bouncing down the couloir. It still seemed too easy, so with a couple hours of daylight still left we jammed one end of a rope into a moat so well we had to cut it. We rapped the rock band to the east, where a snow bridge across the schrund defied the laws of gravity long enough for us to scamper across. From there we did the One Poon Lindy Hop(Darin, thanks for the patient belay!) through slots back to our happy bivy. Gear Notes: Single set to 4", pins, stoppers and tri-cams.
  15. 60m or 70m for doubles?

    I just use a 6mm static. Its kinda squirrely - use a stuff sack rather than coiling/flaking - but works fine. Always rig the rap to pull the smaller cord. Makes a decent tag line as well...
  16. Trail damage

    Second-hand info here: but a pal who owns a cabin up near Cooper Spur told me yesterday that one can still access Cloud Cap via the turnoff down by Parkdale.
  17. 60m or 70m for doubles?

    With the added rope managment involved in half/twin ropes(stacking, flaking, coiling, etc,) I find 60m to be a little easier to deal with. Keeping 140m of cord in good trim can require a lot of time and attention - possibly more time than I'd save. However, I still often use a 70m single on many alpine ice/mixed gigs, when there might be an opportunity to link shorter legs in several places. Then I just bring a thin cord in the pack for rapping. Gawd, you can tell the weather must be awesome and I must be effin' BORED...shop talk is fun!!!
  18. Leuthold Couloir in December info???

    The entire Leuthold is around 35-40 degrees - perfect grade for avis. However, since it is west-southwest facing, the couloir can be pretty scoured by direct winds. In our maritime weather, 24-48hrs after a significant snowfall things tend to settle significantly. Lots of terrain above(Yocum to the left, Upper Reid headwall to the right) can send debris down the couloir...so recommend a helmet and a cold(calm) day. Watch the Reid schrund low down, no significant slots above that. One tool and a ski pole, couple pickets and a screw if you're on a rope. Happy Hunting!
  19. Need Wider Boots

    Vasque boots definitely have a wider footbed.
  20. Nice job nabbing a roadside plum Mark! Of course Mike and I had considered defaming that very buttress this summer while bivi-ing at your creepy Unabomber cabin - unfortunately we stayed up too late watching your copy of the classic film "Ishtar" over and over again...did you leave that video out just to foil our attempt?
  21. New York Times Article

    Awesome WW! Way to bring the props home!!! I haven't read anything that interesting in the NY Times since that article on wild elephants raping rhinos...
  22. Fruit Boots

    I just ground off all the sole lugs until I had a smooth surface to mount the poon on. Then, drill holes in the poon + boot - take out the insoles first. I used 3/8" bolts with locking nuts. For the heel: a small piece of 'L' shaped steel from the hardware store was cut to mount an extra front point upside down on the back as a heel spur(Of course spurs are aid!). Using and old pair of light boots and used poons, the whole thing took one afternoon and cost, including hardware, about $5.75.
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