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Everything posted by marcus

  1. PDX Ice Festival 2007

    Should be another great shindig this year! We'll have all the new sharps and toys available for show & tell, more fun comp route action, a big 'ol screen to show fancy pictures...and, of course free beer. I expect all you smalltown heroes and local hardfolk to set aside a day come down(up) to PDX and climb, canoodle and raise some cash for charity with us. See ya there!
  2. how much are you willing to pay?

    Fortunately, everyone who gives a damn about coffee in the PNW hasn't touched Starbuck's old, vacuum-packed, over-roasted and oxidized product for eons and is instead taking advantage of the plethora of awesome local roasters like Stumptown Roasters, Zoka , or Vivace Roasteria . So this should only affect the other poor souls who've been left behind...
  3. [TR] Gunsight Peaks - Various 7/18/2007

    Outstanding work Papa!! Sounds like a fantastic week out in the hills...
  4. Sounds like an awesome run, Bryan! Sorry I didn't get that Tuolumne beta your way in time - but you obviously sussed it out just fine...
  5. [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007

    Why...is The Red-Headed Stranger getting sleepy?
  6. Good solo daytrips 'round PDX?

    Fill your pack with water + dump it out at your highpoint: get the training bennies w/o trashing your kness on the way down...
  7. Pull up induced decreased bicep range of motion?

    Crossfit: Mess You Up!
  8. [TR] Stuart - complete north ridge 7/6/2007

    I bet that's the first time a stache like that has been up the CNR in 20 years!
  9. [TR] Chipmunk Perch - 4 Horsemen/East Ridge 7/1/2007

    Do not dis the Binky Bunny...she is all-knowing, all-powerful!
  10. crossfithel bbq/open house

    Both CrossfitHEL and CrossfitPortland have some very fit mofo's involved in their programs... CF-PDX is a smaller cadre with a positive, supportive atmosphere: perfect for low-key, internally motivated athletes. There is a gal there who looks like a soccer mom - yet who will crush you in any benchmark workout! CF-HEL is a bigger facility with more bells and whistles(like full bumpers for O-lifts) - and more external motivators(i.e. levels/t-shirts, boot camps, coach-cadet dynamic). Lotsa MMAs and police/firefighter types there, but very open to anyone who wants to train hard. Know that a membership to either joint will run you $80-100 a month(!) - and that's on top of any climbing gym membership you might have, plus $3+ per gallon gas just to get to the trailhead this summer. That's a lotta scratch! WODs are free to all on the CF website, so what you're really paying for is equipment and a community. My solution? The Circuit Gym has many CF tools [gymnastic rings, jumpbox(the slide, dummy!), rope climb, O-weights w/squat rack]. I climb there plus CF. And if that's not enough...you can get a kettlebell and medicine ball for the price of one month at one of those CF facilities. But I'd suggest you CF during off-peak hours - 250lb squats can be dodgy w/tykes underfoot. So if you really wanna meet 'Pukie' then just come over to my house...or the 'Papa Barn'(shh!) - or any other guerilla gym around, or make one at home, or do CF at the playground, or pay someone to yell at you(I'll do it for free!), or whatever...but do it. A good chunk of folks rolling CF right now are probably just using cinderblocks and body armor in some godforsaken place with no facility whatsoever. And while we're all pecking away on our keyboards about fitness, some grandpa in Indiana just busted out 40 muscle-ups for time.
  11. Washington Pass Must Do!!

    Freedom Rider is definitely one of the best lines I've done at WA Pass. Every pitch is unique, often sustained(at a moderate level) and fun. Best way to the top of LB!
  12. Lightweight harness?

    I've been using the Petzl Adjama lately as a decent all-rounder... Pros: *Light(-ish) at 435g *Adjustable leg loops *Real gear loops *Some padding, but doesn't absorb much water *Fully functional climbing harness(not only just a glacier rig) Cons: *No haul loop *Drop seat attachment(hook) in rear gets trashed and can unhook if doing much chimneying. Certainly not the lightest, most bare-bones rig on the market - but for me a good compromise between weight and functionality. As I see it, why get a harness you can only do one thing with? At just 1lb, I use it for sporto stuff and lotsa alpine applications.
  13. crossfithel bbq/open house

    Mess you up! CrossfitHEL BBQ Workout 6/2: *Chug beer(12oz) *Eat "Paleo" hotdog(sub 4oz coleslaw for veggies) *Spray about wussie '300' workout and Gym Jones(100+ words) 3 rounds for time. Post time to Comments.
  14. IMHO JetBoils are just too meek to generate sufficient melting power in real mountain conditions(cold, windy,O2-starved). Word is that the new MSR Reactor will remedy the dearth of effective alpine canister stoves - if it ever gets released, that is. Oh, and put a sock with a hand warmer around one canister. Keep another in your pocket and switch 'em out as they peter out...
  15. Looking for a copy of Sean Dougherty's "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" Preferably 1999 2nd ed. in serviceable condition. PM me

    Are you going back to school JJ?
  17. Trip: Snoqualmie Mountain - Pineapple Express Date: 3/26/2007 Trip Report: Following icy rumours and plummeting temps on Monday, Bill Amos and I climbed Pineapple Express on Snoqualmie Mtn's NW face. I believe this to be the 2nd ascent of the route and it is definitely a great line worthy of attention. Kudos to Roger & Dan for linking up the features and figuring it out. Thoughtful mixed climbing on well frozen rock/turf/scrub/ice 3p up buttress before doglegging out right 2p to find mega-ramp towards NYG. Cruxes at P3&5. I think I always get lost at the NYG topout: twice now i've led this steep awkward corner above loose blocks(w/2 fixed pins and a stopper) but i keep hearing about cruiser 5.7 to the shoulder. Am I nuts or just stupid? Anyhow, sweet line - go get it. P3: ...megaramp... ...top of NYG Gear Notes: .1-#3 camalots, KB, baby angle, egg mcmuffins, Reactors(2), 70m cord, Bill's sexy gators...and my lucky charm! Approach Notes: Phantom Slide, no floats, 2hrs to base.
  18. Evergreen Wall

    Ha!! I forgot that thing even existed...went to ESC way back in the 2oth century. There are also a smattering of aid lines as well to be had on campus: pins, aliens and cam hooks up conrete seams and jointed corners. Check out the Comm Lab east face(probably A3+). Of course, it's off limits, a bad idea, illegal and certainly NOT recommended...awesome.
  19. Effing stellar! Fred has more days on ice this year than most of the rest of you posies!!! Hey Gene, do you think you and Fred are starting to kinda look alike? Just wondering...
  20. Dog from most recent Mt. Hood Accident

    we were of course concerned when we saw what looked to be the scene of a 'day gone bad' down below us on the mountain. the only correct thing to do was put our own plans on hold and descend to investigate. we picked up their trash only to keep our mountain clean and to keep others from also having to investigate. normally i wouldn't choose to ramble online, but all the media attention from beyond the climbing community is really looking to have a negative impact on everyone - even competent, prepared indivuals who understand and live by the mountain's rules. MLUs will only encourage more gapers to jump into shit unprepared with the expectation of an escape hatch. if your incompetence affects my climbing life, then YOU SUCK!!! every other culture and society on the planet understands that mountains are real, they kill people, and that you go there at your own risk. some of us go to great lengths to prepare ourselves and that, along with sound judgment and experience, is our safety margin. do not think that you can regulate,legislate or purchase safety in the mountains. it is a mistake. please just stay home and take up tennis instead.
  21. What altimeter do you have??? GPS?

    Yep, John - unfortunately the Suunto alarm is pretty meek as well. Other than that it's a great tool: super dependable and certainly as accurate as any of 'em. As for GPS: Foretrex 101 weighs ~2oz and wiil find a waypoint perfectly w/o uneccesary bells and whistles