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Everything posted by marcus

  1. Bull River Canyon Conditions?

    Thanks for the pics, Daniel. Looks good!
  2. Iceland Beta?

    Try this: UP-CLIMBING: ice-climbing in Iceland Kaldakinn is on the NE coast, pretty much as far from Reykjavik as you can get, but is supposed to have the highest concentration of accessible water ice...good luck!
  3. Bull River Canyon Conditions?

    Daniel, here's a link on how to post up pictures: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/602568/How_to_post_pictures_in_a_trip Love to see some of those pics of current conditions at BRC!
  4. Gorge Ice Watch 2013!!!

    "Starvin' Marvin" at Starvation Creek, photo taken yesterday(Bill A). This is a 45m WI4- flow that forms regularly on the cliffs west of Starvation Creek. Belay off tree above, mostly 13cm & 10cm screws plus a bonus shrub to sling off.
  5. SOLD

  6. SOLD

    Screws are sold(pending payment)
  7. SOLD

  8. SOLD

    Sold to... 1st dibs: Viverr(reply at 11:29am) If not... 2nd dibs: Ben87(12:13) 3rd up: mthorman(12:18) 4th: Jtodorovich(13:05)
  9. SOLD

  10. SOLD

    bump it up!
  11. The desert rat turns and starts unloading his cold weather gear... Swapping out the chilly boots for Chacos!
  12. [TR] Big Four - north face 3/25/2013

    Nice work fellas...way to raise the bar up!
  13. 3/28 Injury Prevention seminar FREE

    Mike, is this why you sold off your tight jeans on eBay?
  14. Gear Stolen March 13, 2013

    Sorry to hear about that, Kurt. Lemme know if you need some loaner gear to keep working til things get sorted out.
  15. Solid work guys on a proud line...way to commit in spicy conditions!
  16. Change out Sidelock for HeelLock?

    Anecdotally, my Darts with Sidelocks have had repeated issues with the plastic pull tab handle breaking off. Petzl has been great in helping me replace the bail each time - but I see it as a flawed design for sure. A Heel Lock replacement kit would be great!
  17. Petzl Nomics

    Tools are in great shape, delivered as promised...thanks nwrider!
  18. Petzl Nomics

    Pm sent
  19. Interestingly, Diamox is banned by the World Anti-Doping Agency solely because it can mask the detection of performance-enhancing drugs. From the WADA website: Pros: prevent detection of banned substances produce urine excretion to reduce concentration of banned substances weight loss Cons: blood pressure drop cramps death dehydration dizziness electrolyte imbalance headaches heart failure kidney failure muscle cramps nausea potassium depletion volume depletion Anecdotally, I once took Diamox as a prophylactic measure at altitude but found the side effects were insurmountable. One week later with sufficient acclimatization time, I felt and performed much better without it.
  20. Supplemental oxygen is a powerful drug with distinct and undeniable performance-enhancing properties. Offering such substances up to clients on high-altitude expeditions only allows and encourages them to climb even further past the envelope of their limited skills sets. This to me seems less than responsible. As for climbers claiming first or notable ascents using supplemental oxygen: it certainly is cheating by today's standards and should be viewed as such. The fact that most people beyond our community do not and never will understand this fact doesn't negate it. While early ascensionists in the embryonic days of high-altitude mountaineering used supplemental oxygen as a matter of course, to continue to do so into the 21st century only degrades the accomplishments of those who followed in their footsteps, raising the bar and moving our sport into the modern age. Recreational climbers using supplemental oxygen? The mountains provide an opportunity for each of us to explore parts of ourselves we might not easily access in everyday circumstances. 'Good Style' means different things to different people. But please clean up after yourselves! MFT can be a real lightning rod with his polemical manner of speaking. But this controversy didn't start with him - so focusing solely on his own actions or spicy choice of words only delays your facing up to the truth. Deal with it.
  21. Climb: Mount Rainier-Curtis Ridge Date of Climb: 6/19/2006 Trip Report: After viewing some pics of a big 'ol ice dagger hanging off Russel Cliffs last week and a relatively cool forecast in the works, we had reason to think things might still be good and locked up on Curtis Ridge...decided to head up and take a look. For a little cultural diversion on the drive up from PDX we stopped briefly in Woodland, WA for their "Planter Days" festival: muscle cars and farmer's daughters. Sweet inspiration! Sunday a.m. hiked from White River TH(Inter Glacier is still in great shape) passing Lib Ridge troopers en route until the broad slopes of lower Curtis opened up before us. Some cloud breaks and a little dead reckoning allowed us to gain the ridge proper through drifting cloud cover. We gained Pt. 10,284 and rapped west, hitting snow ramps and the occasional broken steps. Even found a trickle of water to re-up from and drink deep - a nice bonus to supplement our meager fuel. Continuing up towards the Gendarme we may have tried to regain the ridge crest a bit too early, as we ended up doing a funky downward-traversing 5th class ropelength to hit easier terrain and make the bivy site. Other options might have lain on the west side - grass is always greener... ...set up our happy little home on the bestest bivy ledge ever, brewed up and nestled down for a few... Monday a.m. was breezy, clouds were still in solid down below us. The chicken that lives inside my head also mentioned that an awful lot of rock(looking chossy...possibly zombie-filled?) was showing on that face up there that's already loosening up in the morning sun, mister. So I thought,"Yeah, I better go home...as soon as I climb this." Took the open book variation through the 1st rockband. An M5-ish kitty litter bulge at the start spit me off once, still clutching the 'good handhold' on the way down. The gulley above led to a short zigzag pitch: rightward up to a rock step, down a leftward snowramp and then back up a step onto the 1st snowfield. 2nd rockband routefinding was no problem. At the second snowfield we continued up toward the exit gulleys. Staying oriented on skyline features was helpful getting into the gulleys, as easier terrain appeared to draw us further right than necessary, back towards upper Willis Wall. Took a "GU-thirty" break one pitch below the exit, as we could see snow tailings whipping pretty good above. So much for alpine climbing...now its time for some good 'ol mountaineering! Shuffleshuffleshuffle...wheeze...shuffleshuffle...whippereffingwinds...shuffleshuffleshuffle...brilliantsun...shuffle...Imustbeonthemoon!! Anyways, after about 1700ft of that, we topped out the ridge and trucked down Emmons. Good times. Gear Notes: Light rack: 1 NOLSe 4 cams 4 stoppers 3 tri-cams 2 KBs 2 angles 3 shorty screws(2 woulda been fine) Approach Notes: no floatation necessary
  22. Beacon Rock tragedy

    Benjio- Deepest condolences to all of Nate's family, friends and his brothers & sisters out at TVFR. This is indeed a sad and heavy reminder for everyone to remain always vigilant with their safety systems - at the crags or on the fireground - and to savour each day as a gift to be lived to the fullest.
  23. Gato Negro conditions 7/4

    'Gato Negro' on the Whine Spire of Silver Star is in fine condition right now. The rock is dry and currently the descent gully is snow filled for easy travel back to the base. Note: We linked and combined some pitches with a 70m cord, which also proved a useful length on the 2nd rappel. Enjoy!