Z-Man

These pics are from yesterday. I believe both the right and left-hand lines in the second pic are unclimbed, at the moment they look as good as they ever do. The Kloke route is on the left and I think Scottgg's line is just to the right of the right-hand steep water ice. A chance for an FA day tripped from Seattle.

Am looking for a fourth for a trip to Cody. Drive out Monday the 27th, climb Tues - Thurs, drive back Thursday night. Looking to do longer WI 4 routes. Pm me.

Trip: Mount Baker - Coleman-Deming Date: 10/19/2010 Trip Report: Tried to do the Coleman Headwall on Sunday, but the crevasses were a little too thick for the time we had allotted and we weren't willing to rap into the moat around the base of the Roman Nose. So Doug and I did the Coleman-Deming with a finish up one of the couloirs climber's left of the Roman Wall, the upper part of the Roman Mustache I guess? Long day, a good bit of AMS coming from sea level, but managed to not puke. A group of two climbed the left lobe of the Coleman Headwall Saturday in the middle of a three day trip, said they liked it. Another group of two also did the CD on Sunday, and it looked like somebody had skied the super icy hardpack in the last few days, nice work not dying whoever that was. Colfax.

This is just the abstract, the full text is available from the journal itself, if you have a UW affiliation can access it online through the library website. from Sports Medicine Issue: Volume 40(8), 1 August 2010, pp 657-679 "Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing" Schöffl, Volker; Morrison, Audry; Schwarz, Ulrich; Schöffl, Isabelle; Küpper, Thomas Rock and ice climbing are widely considered to be ‘high-risk’ sporting activities that are associated with a high incidence of severe injury and even death, compared with more mainstream sports. However, objective scientific data to support this perception are questionable. Accordingly, >400 sport-specific injury studies were analysed and compared by quantifying the injury incidence and objectively grading the injury severity (using the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics score) per 1000 hours of sporting participation. Fatalities were also analysed. The analysis revealed that fatalities occurred in all sports, but it was not always clear whether the sport itself or pre-existing health conditions contributed or caused the deaths. Bouldering (ropeless climbing to low heights), sport climbing (mostly bolt protected lead climbing with little objective danger) and indoor climbing (climbing indoors on artificial rock structures), showed a small injury rate, minor injury severity and few fatalities. As more objective/external dangers exist for alpine and ice climbing, the injury rate, injury severity and fatality were all higher. Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. Nevertheless, a fatality risk remains, especially in alpine and ice climbing. In the absence of a standard definition for a ‘high-risk’ sport, categorizing climbing as a high-risk sport was found to be either subjective or dependent on the definition used. In conclusion, this analysis showed that retrospective data on sport-specific injuries and fatalities are not reported in a standardized manner. To improve preventative injury measures for climbing sports, it is recommended that a standardized, robust and comprehensive sport-specific scoring model should be developed to report and fully evaluate the injury risk, severity of injuries and fatality risk in climbing sports.

Snoqualmie Falls in 1950. This came from a pretty interesting article series, here

I'm good for partners now, thanks.

Anyone up for a mountain trip on Saturday? Am thinking NE Ridge Sperry, Corkscrew on Sloan, WF Sloan, Davis-Holland at Index, Ruth-Icy traverse, or whatever. send me a pm.

I'm meeting some friends at Tieton to climb for the day Saturday. If anybody else is interested send me a pm.

Anybody up for a trip to find some late season ice in the Rockies, dry rock somewhere east of the Cascades, or an alpine trip should conditions work out? Send me a pm.

Follow this website link for further instructions: http://www.nps.gov/mora/forteachers/professionaldevelopment.htm deadline jan 18. Two pdf with more info attached to this post. 4138.pdf 4139.pdf

On behalf of MRNP: I am looking for a few 'volunteers' this summer. There is a new volunteer program at Mt. Rainier called the 'Teacher-Ranger-Teacher' program. It takes school teachers, puts their interpretive abilities to work for the summer, and in turn the teacher brings home their experiences to the school where they work. We had a great TRT program volunteer last summer at the Climbing Information Center in Paradise. The volunteers get way more of a stipend than normal volunteer do (2009 = $60 / day). They also wear a normal NPS uniform. Last year's volunteer was about 50 and had summited almost 15 times, so he was perfect. He was one of the park's star rescuers as well, going on most of the carryouts from Camp Muir we had. I'm looking for 2 TRT's this year to work mostly at Paradise, and exclusively within the mountaineering district. Stefan Lofgren U.S. Park Ranger Mt. Rainier National Park 55210 238th Ave E Ashford WA 98304

North Ridge of Blum, Grade III 5.9. You're all alone out there on some of the cleanest alpine granite in WA.

pm.

Looking for a partner for a day climb. NEB Colchuck, NF Vesper, WF Sloan, lots of ideas, send me a pm.

What's the deal with the clumps of ladybugs found on some summits? I've experienced this four times, all on craggy peaks above 8000' east of the crest, any idea how they got there, or why?

I second the call to cut Jared a little slack considering he's had his lower leg reconstructed and can't get around much on his own, not to mention the impending relocation to the East coast. I know him pretty well and he's been very reliable, I'm sure this will get resolved.

Two more of the ojective hazards on route.

Doug, thanks for the climb and humour. Spaces between pics...

Wow, I get the feeling Mankato might have been in the book.

Where did you find the NPS daily ranger report?

A very well-written, honest, and exciting book. I liked it.

Damn Jared... very glad you're alive. This is a good cautionary tale for everyone as you were so solid leading up to this trip with all of the climbing and conditioning you were doing. I think it also shows that the systems we use actually will help you to not die and allow yourself to get out of trouble, even if they're not perfect. Even though you didn't have adequate pro available and factor-2'd, the belay was evidently solid and held. And prusiking and climbing across steep snow with a broken leg, holy crap, that's some strong work there. Sounds like the evacuation was about as good as it could have been too, glad you're not still stuck up on the Ruth. I'll see you soon.

partner found

SR 20 opens tommorrow. Forecast looks good going into next week. Am looking for a partner for Cutthroat or Graybeard. send me a pm.