Tyler

For sure - books and bulletin boards can be good sources of wisdom, but eventually, one must get off the couch and then apply said wisdom and learn for themselves in the mountains.

Great advice! If you climb at Flagstone, there is the 2 pitch 5.6 route by Toy Box (the route name escapes me - it's often referred to as a "bolt ladder"). That would be very appropriate for a first sport multipitch. There is also the second pitch of Bunny Face, but that maybe a little to sketchy for a totally green beginner because of the slight downclimb and traverse it takes to get onto the second pitch. There was a tip and an illustration in this month's Climbing (I believe). You might find that helpful. It's been a while since I have done multipitch, but I never got rope management down very well either. I always seemed to turn the rope into a rat's nest.

Uh oh... I think you mistakenly gave out the ISBN of another book you were reading... From Ingram: The Five Love Languages of Teenagers Contributor(s): Gary Chapman (Author) ISBN: 1881273393 Publisher: Moody Publishers US SRP: $ 12.99 US Binding: Paperback - Other Formats Pub Date: January 2001 Publisher Marketing: At no other time have parents, teachers, and mentors been more desperate to find proven ways to reach teens. Best-selling author Gary Chapman presents The Five Love Languages of Teenagers -- practical guidance on how to discover and express the teen's primary love language. A resource for stemming today's tide of violence, immorality, and despair.

So, what is the ISBN then?

I'm assuming your first multipitch will be a sport route rather than trad? That makes a bit of a difference... Yeah, I don't think there's going to be a good book to help you out with your first multipitch, but it is helpful to equip yourself with a good set of skills (along with lots of practice) found in Long's climbing anchor books among others. See if you can do your first multipitch with someone more experienced who can give you some guidance and pointers. Doing a sport multipitch first is pretty good experience; it will help you get used to rope management, setting up a belay station, switching leads, etc all while you're off the ground. Do you happen to live in or near Eugene? If you're planning on your first trad multipitch, you could use the columns as practice. I've know people that have practiced setting up a multidirectional belay anchor in the middle of the route. It's a good place to practice, and you're not too far off the deck if that's a concern.

Okay... So, I'm about to sharpen a couple of ice tool picks for the first time. Gadd's book recommends picking up a round file to sharpen the grooves between your picks teeth, and it recommends using a flat file for sharpening the top of the tool and what not... Now, the book mentioned not to use the flat file for sharpening the top edge. Should the flat file be used for beveling the teeth as well as for sharpening the tip? Gadd's book said not to use the flat file for sharpening a particular are of the pick, but I didn't completely understand what part of the pick not to use the flat file on. Now, I'm assuming I should pick up a round metal file that fits the grooves in the pick's teeth. Is there any specific model or make I should pick up, or will any metal files do the trick? Is there anything else helpful I should know? Thanks

Found some. Thanks John!

One of the best books I have ever read - Will Campbell's The Glad River. Other amusing titles: Twight - Kiss or Kill Herzog - Annapurna I really appreciated Above the Clouds: Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer. This is a collection of Anatoli Boukreev's journal writings. It was quite an interesting read. Burgess Book of Lies by Alan and Adrian Burgess

Thanks for the help so far. I have someone that could probably act as a "mentor" on some trips. Yes, this is serious shit, and I'm trying to approach it with some humility... Knowing I'm going to have to take it slow and get a lot of experience... I may end up going with some Grivel Alp Wings - haven't heard anything specific, but does anyone have any rants or raves? I had a pair of Grivel G12 crampomatics, but I did not feel like they were the best for front pointing. Plus, I think I like the newmatic bindings a little better even though any boots I use them on would have significant welts. Thanks!

Looking to buy a pair of Charlet Moser Axars or used Grivel Alp Wings

So, I'm recovering from knee surgery, and I am plotting my return to climbing - which will hopefully include some ice. I've ice climbed once before - very easy alpine ice with CM Pulsars. But now that one of my knees has been fixed, I'm hoping to do some trips this winter. I won't be doing any mixed or hard WI. I'm hoping to start out on some easy WI and AI. We'll see where it goes from there. So, I'm looking at purchasing some new or used equipment. I'm leaning towards trying to get a pair of used Axars ...or possibly a pair of Grivel Alp Wings if the price is right. Here are my thoughts - let me know if I am way off or if this sounds good. Pair of used Axars - I've swung these at a shop before they were discontinued, and they seemed great. The head would not be too comfortable on the hands for extended use while plunging. Should be able to find a used set reasonably priced. Grivel Alp Wing - I swung a set in the shop - they weren't too bad, but they did not have as nice of a swing as the Quarks (which are way more than I need, but they have a great swing). Shaft should plunge easily, head should be a litte more comfortable than the Axars when plunging. No pinky guard though... CM Quasars - I've seen some used sets online, but my understanding is that they're pretty heavy and good for pounding hard ice. They obviously don't plunge well because of the handle. Are these worthy of consideration? There is a used set that seems reasonably priced online. BD Rage or used BD Black Prophets w/ curved shaft - I've never seen these at a shop or swung these before. If somebody in Eugene has a set, I wouldn't mind taking a swing. CM Aztars - they have a nice swing, but I don't like that the hammers and adzes are all one piece in the unlikely chance that they broke - time to buy a new tool. Plus, the angle of the adze seems like it would be hard to use. Crampons: Leaning towards a pair of Grivel G14's or a pair of CM Sarkens. The G14's can switch to a mono point which seems nice, but the front points on the Sarkens are fixed. There's a pair of used CM Blackice crampons available online - has anyone had good/bad experience with these crampons - It seems like these would be suitable for easier climbing.

Yeah, it's been a while. Heck, I might try to make one.

I checked Ingram, and it is not in stock there. Plus, it was not listed in their forthcoming titles database. I also searched their supplier database - nothing there either. I cannot find a trace of the book or the publisher using any of the publishing industry tools available online. Ingram does have the old guidebook in stock, and it is listed as in print. I was at Redpoint a few weeks back, and they indicated that the original publisher went ahead and brought the old guidebook back into print - no sign of the new guidebook yet. Does anyone happen to have contact information for MonkeyFace Press or happen to have concrete information about the new guidebook (release date, ISBN, publisher, etc).

Hammock is for sale on eBay. Checkit out: eBay - Hennessy Hammock Auction

Brand New Hennessy Hammock - Expedition 2.5 for sale. $120 new, sell for $75 or Best Offer (will include UPS shipping to the lower 48). I sent mine in for a slight tear to be fixed, and they sent me a brand new model as a replacement! The hammock is pretty comfortable, but I think I still prefer a tent. For additional information about the hammock, see: Hennessy Hammocks

Down here in Oregon, I have been told that Verizon coverage is pretty terrible in rural areas. AT&T coverage is probably the best; although, it can be a little spotty around some of the pass areas (Santiam and Willamette) depending on the phone you have. And, there is pretty much no coverage in parts of Central to eastern Oregon (Christmas Valley, etc). A year ago, I had to replace my older phone with a simple Nokia 5165 - the reception was much better (although the battery falls out all the time).

I'm always amazed when this argument comes up. Who cares! You're out there to have fun. What's the problem with waiting for your buddy to switch from ascent to descent. Big deal. Take in the scenery and enjoy yourself! Peace

Thet're all gone. A BloueWater Rescue 8 is still available.

Blue Water rescue 8 for sale. Never used. Asking $10. Buyer pays shipping.

Avalanche Probe is still available. Dragonfly and G 12 crampons have been sold.

Let me know if you are interested in purchasing these items: Red 300cm Avalanche Probe, Very Good condition, never used - $40 or Best Offer MSR Dragonfly stove, used only a couple of times - excellent condition, includes spare parts - $55 or Best Offer Grivel G12 Crampomatic crampons, used once, includes anti-snow plates - $60 or Best Offer Buyer pays shipping and handling. Let me know if you have any questions. <a href="mailto:tyler@wipfandstock.com">tyler@bellemontagne.org">tyler@bellemontagne.org</a> <a href="mailto:tyler@wipfandstock.com P.S. I will be out sick the rest of the day, and probably will not repsond until tomorrow...

Blue Water rescue 8 for sale. Never used. Asking $10. Buyer pays shipping.

quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: what can i say, they just don't pay us enough here at cc.com to afford fany laptops and remote admin tools. It looks like those cheap asses can't afford a spell check feature either...

Going against what Beck said, check out Opticus. I've heard pretty good things about their work.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Back to the TR, Greg W and his munitions were no-shows. I was looking forwards to shooting stuff and blowing stuff up! In fact down the China Hat Road area while looking for the caves, we were probably the only unarmed party in the whole county! FYI: You should have turned left on to Forest Service Road 1819. A few years ago we were out there and it tool us forever to remember what road it is to the cave. Now I have it in ROM never to be forgotten. I was out there for the first time in a year or so last Thursday, and they have a NEW sign up that says the caves are closed from November until sometime in the Spring. I do not believe there are any bat colonies inhabiting this particular cave. I wonder why they don't want people futzing around out there in the winter... [ 11-12-2002, 05:23 PM: Message edited by: Tyler ]