Dustin_B

Thanks for all the info. That's what I was hoping to hear. I was down at Marmot this weekend checking them out. They look pretty bomber and fit me well also. I think I am going to get the Valdez. Dustin

quote: ... Listen up you little <50 post little snot....What does the number of posts a person has, have to do with this debate? Just curious, sounds like a slam to those new to cc.com. Are new members not allowed to partake in these debates? --Dustin

quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: actually, I think the friction in the rope setup would decrease the total force, i.e. force on the anchor is (2x weight of climber) – (amount of climber weight absorbed by friction an therefore not held by belayer) – (amount of climber weight and belayer strain absorbed by rope rubbing on rock). I'll give it another go (I just deleted my long ass response so this is shorter): The increased friction is this scenario would not "decrease the total force of the system" (which remains constant), rather is would decrease the total force on the top piece. The resultant (missing, other) force would be felt by the rope on rock friction and rope drag through other pieces (and therefore increased force on those pieces). Afterall, these other things are what is causing some of the friction. Strictly speaking, assuming no other frictional forces exist, the friction between the rope-biner on the top piece can't reduce the force on the top piece, that is physically impossible. Now do I have it?

quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by Dustin B: Wow, I figured that out on a Friday afternoon Except you may have figured wrong. Consider this: if there were so much friction that the rope wouldn't pull through, it would be just like the climber was hanging from a single strand hung on the anchor. If this is correct, then wouldn't some lesser amount of friction maybe tend to reduce rather than aggravate the doubling factor? So it would seem, now I am truely perplexed. But ponder this: Lets assume this is the case. What is causing this much friction? Probably rope drag caused by the other end of the rope running through the other pieces placed while leading. So these pieces would be taking some of the force then. Okay, my mental capacity is maxed for now. Maybe I'll ponder this issue on Monday with a fresh mind. Now it is time for and

quote: Originally posted by shredmaximus: This brings up interesting points and something that is pretty relevant to all of us given the forum that this discussion is taking place. I did not know Anna before that weekend. We had climbed Giverler's the day before and there was a whole bunch of C.C folks who were switching leads and belayers all over Caslte Rock. I don't think ANY OF US really had that good an idea of what the others limitations were...especially in regards to leading. I was all geared up to lead the first pitch (which I later did by the way) and in a moment of enthusiasm Anna decided that she wanted to lead it. No problem...I wasn't fixated on leading it so I gave her my rack. I assumed she was up to the task...I'm sure at the time she did to. We've all been there. Your feeling good...you've got a day of climbing under your belt, you look up at the climb and say "I can do that" then you get on it and realize you are over your head! Sure as her belayer it was my responsibility to have gotten a better handle of her skills but I didn't...another lesson learned. I was not really in a position to tell Anna that she should probably not climb this because I assumed she could...as did everyone else that day. So in this age of finding random climbing partners on the internet, and C.C.com Rope Ups where you are climbing with lots of new folks, how do you get a handle on your partners limitations when you haven't really climbed with them before and may have only developed the leader/belayer relationship moments before??? I can't believe so many people jumped on the band wagon of blaming Anna's partners for "letting her climb something she wasn't prepared for"!! Come on folks. We all read the warnings on the equipment; it is up to YOU to keep safe while climbing. It doesn't sound like any one encourgaged her to lead something she didn't feel comfortable leading. That could be seen as irresponsible. The only way you could blame this on climbing partners is if they didn't catch the fall, or something along those lines. Anna, didn't blame her climbing partners and I don't think anyone else should in this situation. Dustin

quote: Originally posted by b-rock: Right, in theory it would be the weight of the climber x 2. Okay, I'll buy that. It would be 2 x the weight of the climber if a "frictionless" pulley was used for lowering. The the real case there would be even more force because of the friction in rope-biner setup. So the force during lowering is more than 2 times the force during rappelling, correct? Wow, I figured that out on a Friday afternoon!! Dustin

I haven't read the entire thread so this may have already been discussed but: quote: Originally posted by glacier: ...I think in general it is 'safer' to rap in the case of a bad anchor. The forces on an anchor are much less when rapping than lowering - simply - You have the weight/force of one person (rappeller) rather than two (climber and belayer) acting on the anchor... Regarding the forces on the anchor: I don't think you can count the "weight of the belayer" in when you are comparing the 2 situations. Imagine you were belaying/lowering directly off the anchor which was "anchored" to the earth. You would not count the "weight of the earth" in this situation. So the difference in force in the 2 situations would not necassarily be the weight of the belayer. Its Friday so I can't think that well at the moment, but it does seem logical that there is slightly more force in lowering. --Dustin

Who out there has one of this company’s packs, do you like it, and why? Would you buy another pack from this company? How long does it take to custom order one? I am thinking of getting either The Chernobyl or The Valdez. Their packs look awesome. One concern I have: They only offer a small and medium in the Chernobyl and they say “our size medium/regular fits people 5'7" to 5' 10" while a large fits those over 5' 10" ”. I am about 6’2”. Has any “taller” person had problems with a medium being to small for them? The Valdez only comes in one size; has any “taller” person had a problem with that one? Thanks. --Dustin Cold Cold World Packs product page in case the link doesn't work www.coldcoldworldpacks.com

gregm: quote: ...wahoo there's this big cowThat is a steer or longhorn, not a cow. I would think that you'd know the difference after 3 years quote: ...or something and her name's "bevo" for some reason.Read up and I'm sure you can find the reason for the name Bevo (big hint: 13-0) quote: ...texas sucks, whole damn state.Then don't ever go back again. There's to many people there already. quote: ...it's too damn hot and there's no mountians.Yep, its hot, the better to enjoy the lakes and rivers in. And there are mountains. State high point is over 8,000 ft. You must head west to find the mountains. quote: ...and the worst of it is all the these texans think it's some big deal or something.Yea, must be mass histeria or something. quote: ...texas = florida.Yea, good analogy. I suppose Orlando has lakes that you'd want to swim in, great mountain biking, and rock climbing all 5 minutes (literally) from downtown. Come to think of it, does Seattle??

quote: Originally posted by RobBob: quote:RobBob: Aggies and Longhorns are not mascots of the same college dumbshit. Texas A&M (Aggies, College Station, TX) is where the bon fire collasped. Austin (UT, Longhorns) rocks. You'd know that if you'd ever been there. College Station sucks and you'd know that if you'd ever been there too. Get your facts straight before you spray, hoser. Read it again, Dustin B. This time for comprehension. I lived right next to Barton Springs, back when you were probably in your pampers. Yea, sorry, meant to say Thinker not you RobBob

quote: Originally posted by Dru: If Texas is so great why is it so flat? God must hate them, cause He gave their mountains to the West Coast. God gave us many, many beautiful women instead. He just put the mountains on them I guess one state can't have it all. Although I heard there are plenty of hottie's up in Canada...

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: [QB]Dustin, I have no clue who you are, nor do I care, Nor do I know who you are or care. Look we have something in common after all quote: ...you little wanker.I'm not a wanker yet, just a lurker. I need a few more posts. quote: ...Before you call me a hoser and a dumbshit again...Ok, so I may have over reacted by calling you those names; sorry. I just take offense when someone sprays on my mothercountry like that. So for that, you get one of these quote: ...I care not if you choose to differentiate between various subspecies of Texans (i.e. Longhorns, Aggies, Bears, or even GW.) The point is TEXANS built the faulty structure and killed their own kind. My point still stands.I'll refer you to RobBob's post for this one: quote: Thinker, anyone who has ever lived in Austin would tell you that people who reside in College Station are not representatives of Texas. quote: (...nor are they putting their backwards goober-speaking governor in the whitehouse.)GWB rocks. Where else but America can a moron can become President. What a great country!! Just imagine Thinker, if you try hard enough, maybe one day you can become President too!!

quote: Originally posted by RobBob: quote: what ever, at least the engineering students at the Oklahoma universities don't kill masses of their fellow students with their drunken revelries around burning stacks of hundreds of telephone poles haphazardly stacked 4 stories high (as has been done in recent times in Texas). Thinker, anyone who has ever lived in Austin would tell you that people who reside in College Station are not representatives of Texas. RobBob: Aggies and Longhorns are not mascots of the same college dumbshit. Texas A&M (Aggies, College Station, TX) is where the bon fire collasped. Austin (UT, Longhorns) rocks. You'd know that if you'd ever been there. College Station sucks and you'd know that if you'd ever been there too. Get your facts straight before you spray, hoser.

quote: Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: My family was sooners.. so fuck all y'all. Texas sux. It's too bad their bid to seceed from the union was squashed, cause then we would'nt have to deal with y'all. Oh, so what is Oklahoma known for if it such a great state? Please. No other state comes close to being as gnarly and badass as Texas. Like the license plates says, "Oklahoma is OK". Texas rocks. All you Sooners can suck my ass. Once the Horn's toss Simms, they'll be unstoppable.