North_by_Northwest

Once every couple weeks I can stomach this horseshit sprayfest. How do you thrive on it everyday? I guess parasites are meant to live in dung.

It's no Escort, son. Just be ready to wear your own battery cables like a necklace. I can't believe anyone would want to proclaim to the world that they're climbers and they post here. This site can be funny and it can provide useful information, but it's still pretty lame. I'm not proud to be a part of this bullshit.

What does promate mean? You make me cringe as mulch as Bulsh.

Stickers are for Whack M.C.s only, and I just read a six page list of Whack M.C.s. I vow to cut off every driver with a CC.com sticker, while continuing to give the Bird to all cars with climbing stickers. Punk Ass Muthafuckas-Get Real!

I pulled out a couple of little Thimbleberry bushes coming from the crack in places. There is some lichen on the slab but it is clean in the key spots. The crack is almost all clean. You won't be sketching out on moss and dirt and getting lichen in your eyes and teeth when you're trying to lead, if that's what you're thinking about. Do it

There's a new route at Index that ya'll should start climbing. You won't find it in any of the guidebooks. The approach is short, the route has some great moves and the position and exposure are top notch. It's called 'Cream of the Country' and it's a 10c finger crack with some face moves. It was put up about a year ago (I think) and is pretty clean but it hasn't seen much traffic. I climbed it last weekend and it was a great pitch. The approach is interesting too: Walk or climb to the top of GM/Heart of the Country. To the climber's right of the final set of anchors there is a red fixed rope. Follow this rope and some others up and to the climber's left. The trail branches at one point and leads to a large ledge under an overhang. Stick with the main trail and it will take you above the ledge and further left. You will pass a number of cracks that are recent first ascents, but keep going for the goods. 'Cream of the Country' is a right facing corner with a slabby start. You will find two bolts with chains at the base of the climb. One hanger might be missing, if so use a medium size stopper on the bolt. The direction of the climb is pretty obvious from here: one bolt off the deck, then into the crack above. The crux comes near the end of the route. Small cams are very useful. There are anchors at the top of the route. Once completed another route can be toproped from the same anchors. This route (12+) is an overhanging hand size crack to the left of 'Cream' and you will want tape if you plan on trying it. As stated above, this route is fun, has a bit of adventure involved, and is mostly clean. The approach is pretty short too. Get out there and try it out.

...to go climbing on Sunday. I can leave as soon as noon on Saturday. I'd like to go to Index but could be talked into Leavenworth or maybe even some alpine nonsense. I like to climb cracks and have rack, rope and car. Can drive from Seattle area. Call whenever. Aaron 206.890.0090

For sixty dollars you can eat cold food with hot hands.

The monolith and Hal would both be so pissed off.

Correction: The floppy-eared formation I called Rabbit Ears was actually Sitkum Spire. See: (Not a photo from my trip, we had a shitload of snow everywhere and no crevasses.)

Nice work. Sounds like you're switched on: Details on the route you led?

Friday at dusk: Arrived at trailhead with the Nabisco Kid and three others. Marched through the dark to Kennedy Hot Spring. Trail was mix of dirt and packed snow (not too much of a problem in tennies). Camping at Kennedy Hot Spring was on compact snow. Warm temperatures caused a lot of melt under our tent during the night. Saturday before dawn: Left camp and followed trail to top of switchbacks near where the climbers trail begins. Experienced some route finding problems due to differing maps. (Take a sharp left at the top of the switchbacks, cross one stream and start up the old moraine before you cross the second stream to avoid difficulty.) Found snowshoe and boot tracks following the blazed climbers trail on top of the old moraine. Snow was compact and going was quite easy up to Boulder Basin. At the Basin the tracks took a right and ascended steeper slopes. We continued our slog up the Sitkum in soft snow and under intense sunlight. Noticed ski/snowboard tracks on the slopes to the left of our route. Snow conditions were shitty for slogging: thin crust followed by a few inches of soft, then another crust and a more consolidated layer. Every step had to be stomped twice. Might have presented a serious avalanche hazard on steeper terrain. Dropped my favorite Nalgene and watched it slide for miles on the crust. This occurence was shitty in that I lost half of my water for the trip and shitty- in that I lost a treasured item. Dark clouds and intense fog moved in, reducing visibility to 40 feet for most of the morning. Continued to slog under the guidance of map and GPS. The sky opened near Rabbit Ears and temperatures were uncomfortably warm. Snow was solid and semi-iced over, requiring crampons. We ditched packs at the saddle above Rabbit Ears and charged for the summit block. Weather was alternating rapidly between intense sun and thick fog. After investigating the summit block the Nabisco Kid and I began climbing the most promising gully. Conditions in the gully were shitty- : loose melting ice and soft snow. Climbing required kicking crampons until they hit rock and pawing hands and axe up through loose shit. An axe buried to the head was easily pulled out through the above mentioned choss. The final stretch (30 feet vertical, 100 feet horizontal) required the crossing of two shitty cornices and the ascent of a chute filled with deep soft snow. A fall would have been long and deadly, depositing a climber on the glacier below. After considering the hazards, the lack of protection and the time (nearly 5 pm) the Nabisco Kid and I chose to leave the last thirty feet for another day. We met the rest of our party at the saddle where the packs had been ditched and continued down together. The summit was completely obscured by clouds as we descended but the sky opened at Boulder Basin and allowed a nice view of where we had been. The descent took very little time. Saturday before dusk: scarfed my Tasty Bite and drank some tea before bed. Late Sunday morning: marched for the trailhead with good weather and good spirits. At the car drank some good spirits with the Nabisco Kid and others before motoring out. -Conditions on the summit block and Kennedy Hot Spring trail have probably improved greatly since the trip described above.

Only Whack M.C.s and crack heads would vote against Caveman returning. Sissy muthafuckas. WHAT?

It was you. Some of this for your MPV biatch.

I pick up your trash every time I go out: new rappel slings left on trees and rocks where the terrain is third class and walkable.

If you're really over there why haven't you changed your location to Baghdad, or Basra or something? Where are you? And how are you accessing the internet? Are you using Saddam's private computer? What kind of porn does he have on there? I'll bet he likes chicks with big muffs and veils. (Good job for being there and doing the dirty work by the way. )

Surfing the internet on a Friday night (usually) prevents heavy drinking on a Friday night. Heavy drinking on a Friday night can prevent (strong) climbing on a Saturday morning. I don't feel too bad about my choice. Besides, I'm not at home.

"Are you wearing Prana?" I've got the logo tatooed on my back man. Straight up yoga for LIFE!

Will there ever be an end to the "Dave doesn't drive" jokes? I hope not. Jordo: The buzzer has sounded. Please report your answers. Are you a Whack M.C. or not?

fucked up old webbing? I get nice new webbing every time I climb a route that the mounties like.

Have you ever practiced yoga and or pantomined the moves on a route repeatedly before climbing? Have you ever told people to put out their cigarettes at the crags? Have you ever told someone that they are "ruining your wilderness experience"? What gym do you climb at? You get points for being in a ditch with Scotch all the time, but these answers could make or break you. Please stop typing immediately after the buzzer sounds. You will not be docked points for incomplete answers.

Correction: I want the Hobie 21 if I can find one! I'll settle for an 18 if it's nice. I know somebody out there has one that just sits and collects mold/dust/moss. Sell it to me, make some cash and know that it'll get used.

Product stickers are for Whack M.C.s. Do wear tape gloves whenever you climb cracks? How long is your ponytail? How many Labradors and or Border Collies do you bring to the crags? Have you ever asked someone to turn down their music in the campground before 10 P.M.? The answers to these questions will either clear you or incriminate you further.

Mutha Fuckas....

I'm pretty sure it was Chuck with a capital K that I saw. He didn't really do anything to piss me off, but if I see any of you in a random public place I'll probably give you the finger just for the hell of it. I saw Flebfleb crossing the University Bridge one time, but he didn't look so the finger was not extended in jest. I'd like to flip one at CBS but I have to know what he looks like first. Post a picture of him and I'll keep my eyes open.