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Timpanogos

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  1. Woops, This does add up if he stopped 15' below the belay station.
  2. I have followed this thread with much reflection. My heart felt feelings go out to the family and friends. Being my first year climbing – starting right out with trad, and having the same brands of cams, I’ve been glued to the clues and mysteries that have been brought out in this thread. Based on MichaelB’s comments (sounds like he knows the route inside/out) along with all the other posts – the following fall factors came to my mind. Total rope out = 65’ (20 meters) First piece of pro = 25’ runout (based on MichaelB’s comments) Anchor to last placement = 10’ (based on MichaelB’s comments) 65-10-25 = 30’ between top and bottom piece (4 segments) 30 / 4 = 7.5’ feet average between placements Assume first fall was from the anchor 20’ fall to #3 on 65’ of rope = .31 fall factor 20 + 7.5 * 2 = 35 / 65 = .54 on #2 where the biner broke. (35 + 15) / 65 = .77 on the walked #1 (50 + 15) / 65 = 1.0 on the #3 TCU Now I realize that hitting the popping pro would keep the additive fall lengths below what is shown here, but if the #3 did not pick up much load, the .54 factor on the biner could be fairly accurate. I assume that a force greater than the normal 15’ fall (from #2 to #1) would come into play because of motion, and this additive force was obviously very high by the time it hit the #3 TCU. However, this math does not add up, because he fell some distance below the belay station. MichaelB – can you give a more accurate measurement of the route, and Erden, how far below the belay station did he fall? Thanks Chad
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