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Everything posted by DanO

  1. Close Call!!

    700 meters? Wow.
  2. Paul Bailey accident

    I send a little prayer now and then for his eyes to see again. I myself from reading this accident determine again to pick the routes that I can place a lot of good pro, at least when cragging. Also, it is my habit to always wear a helmet and chest harness while on lead, I also try to practice down climbing every day I am on top rope. The advantage of the chest harness that hopefully you will stay upright so your legs take the impact. I am reminded to push myself, but in a way that I can look for climbs that will take plenty of protection on lead. Of course in alpine you may not have that option, but hopefully in locations with less pro, it will have a lower climbing grade. Always some risk in climbing, Pulling for you Paul.
  3. Here is a situation, even if your fairly dry on the inside, your shell gear is(could be) totally soaked, You can take it off and lay it aside when settled into camp. But it stays wet all night may even freeze if it gets cold enough, this kind of thing happens to all of us. Or you can wear it inside of your sleeping bag and try to dry it out overnight. Not a pleasant thought in itself. So you have two unpleasant options. It would be nice to have inexpensive gear that you could dry out by evaporation by moving round or inside a sleeping bag. This is the way Buffalo gear seems to be designed to work, but I have zero experience with it. A little expensive for me to experiment with it, so thinking of alternatives. I have a Marmot hard shell jacket that is nice it is of the older design and has a lot of fabric on the inside that if wet would be a total bear to dry inside a sleeping bag I suspect. Maybe treating everything with waterproof wash would help greatly. Dan
  4. I guess my experience is different I usually get mostly wet after a few hours of hard rain even with a hard shell. From sweating and from the rain, it slowly seeps in everywhere. I pretty much assumed this is a common experience? Wet snow and rain is a tough combination as well. A hard shell or soft shell does not really breath if the outer skin is coated with water. I do find that pit zips help and having plenty of air moving around helps. I guess it depends on conditions, a mild rain is not so hard to deal with and you can stay relatively dry in this situation. Wool is a tough one to figure out, it does dry slowly compared to many synthetics, but it is recommended for wet situations(old school?). Drying slower can help as it won't chill you as much as polyester fabric from rapid drying(rare problem), but it also is much harder to dry out inside your sleeping bag, wool socks and gloves almost impossible to dry out overnight. I am wondering how wool would do once treated with a waterproof wash, if that would make it much better or not? I have not seen any information on this. I have and like Merino wool, a super thin merino wool base layer does not seem harmful, but the wool gloves and socks that I have need to be treated or replaced. I also have a few more heavy Merino wool Sweaters that I carry from time to time, I guess I can treat or replace, I already have polyester fleece zipper shirts. Also a few of those polypropylene military shirts. Dan
  5. Thanks for the replies this helps a lot. It seems that your going to get wet no matter what and the best you can do is manage that condition stay warm and get dried out if you can in camp or when the rain stops. I don't really plan to climb in wet weather, but would like to have the kit for it if needed, also I am part of SAR. Dan
  6. http://www.psychovertical.com/?thebestsoftshell I found this article.
  7. Glacier Glasses or Sunglasses

    A cheaper pair of glacier glasses is number 5 welding lenses on a pair of construction sun glass frames. You can find these in welding shops. Works Ok, but don't know about many days on the mountain on the longer trips. Dan
  8. rehash of the pnw '4 season' tent

    http://www.backpacker.com/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?act=Print;f=832107219;t=9991120946 Here is a link with a discussion about the Scarp tents if any is interested.
  9. rehash of the pnw '4 season' tent

    http://www.backpacker.com/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?act=Print;f=832107219;t=9991120946 Here is a link with a discussion about the Scarp tents if any is interested.
  10. rehash of the pnw '4 season' tent

    Hilleberg Akto, and big agnes seedhouse SL2, Even though the Akto is a one person tent, I cut pads to fit the whole bottom of the tent and the wife and I can fit in for a night or two. Can't beat it for us, but not roomy enough unless your a couple, maybe two small guys? I have not used any of the henry shire tents, there is a price to pay for being really lightweight,, at a good size. Maybe it would have done better with the lining? Realistically, when going out on purpose in really bad weather a more heavy, maybe less roomy tent would be the better choice? So on second thought, this could work for some mountaineering, but not when expecting the worst weather. I have found Sil nylon to be really strong, any tears? Scarp2 tent is big, I think the guys over 6 feet could use it and have a light tent. Thanks for the real life report. By the way I was out in the seedhouse 2 for a heavy overnight rain and slowly we got soaked the next day. The tent is small and the sleeping bags were against the sides and slowly the water seeped in and got in when we moved in and out of the tent. Also our clothes brought in the water and so on. I have found in general that the larger the tent the dryer, as you can keep clothing and gear and sleeping bags from the walls. I don't fault the tent, it is what it is , a light weight tent , small with the thin strong material. I would not want to be in any kind of light tent like this for long time in bad weather. The Akto would be a better choice, but even smaller. I would trust the Seedhouse in a pretty good storm, but not full on winter storm. It is what it is.
  11. rehash of the pnw '4 season' tent

    http://www.tarptent.com/productsheets/SCARP2.pdf http://www.tarptent.com/scarp2.html MADE IN THE USA! I would have gotten this tent rather than my last two tents if I had known about it or it existed.
  12. Colin "distilled"?

    http://www.epicski.com/forum/thread/57090/how-to-self-arrest-head-first A link showing how to self arrest with ski poles, basically you put the pole inside of your armpit and put all your weight into it. Will not work on ice, actually works pretty well on somewhat steep snow, be sure to practice. You may be able to dig in one boot toe with the snow pole self arrest method. You can self arrest with your body alone if you use cupped hands at your face, dig in cupped hands and elbows and dig in toes hard, works on soft snow pretty well. I thought I would throw this in the thread for those who would like to use ski poles and don't know how to self arrest with them. Practice!, I try to do so once a year. By the way you do not have to put your left hand all the way at the top of the pole, if the pole is too long it works well by grabbing the pole down lower around the shaft.
  13. boots for the Cascades?

    Go to all the climbing stores and try on all the boots, buy what fits the best, REI has great return policy if your a member, you can bring them in a month later if they are trashing your feet for a exchange. Dan
  14. Paul Bailey accident

    I will send a prayer for him. And I don't pray that much. Dan
  15. I have just recently started taking oil supplements for my knee and having positive results. So just a reminder or a heads up check out oil supplements for injury recovery. Borage, Flax, Primrose, these are the big three to try out. There are some mixtures of the three that said to be better. Check out at the heath stores and good luck. Can make a real difference in all kinds of joint injuries. Dan
  16. Went to Bellingham YMCA climbing gym this sat, day pass is 7 bucks a day, a option for bad weather days. Dan
  17. Glacier Peak this summer

    I think I would be interested as well, maybe my wife also. We climb a lot year around. I find the best training for climbing, is climbing, even rock climbing with hiking etc translates well. Shoot for some day trips or weekend trips. I also want to do Whitehorse this spring and a lot of other climbs. Dan
  18. Paul Bailey accident

    Any recent news on the recovery? Dan
  19. We got a stationary bike a few months ago, I have been hitting it about thirty to forty five minutes several times a week. Would do it every day but I find I need the extra recovery time. I am surprised on how a good workout it gives me. Pretty convenient as I do it watching TV in the spare bedroom in the evenings. I feel my legs getting bigger and stronger. But I don't feel like it translates totally to the hiking motion with a pack. I wonder if any here has done the stationary bike workout and how well it translates to mountaineering? Any suggestions on the best length of time for the workout? I can't hit it too hard as to baby my bum knee along. Dan
  20. Because of the knee, hard fast training is out, I can only do moderately paced peddling at steady pressure. I find I can get some sweat going and get a good leg work out, but it does not hit the lungs much, the best I can do. But after a 45 minute workout my legs can be surprisingly sore for at least two days. After a few months of this my legs may adapt, I suppose with hiking with a pack that this will make great cross over training. For anyone interested, what I do is put on a moderate pressure setting on the bike then I do half the time down lower where my knees raise up to around horizontal. I am careful during this period as it puts more strain on the knees, Then I do half the time setting with the seat two notches higher. I find this hits a broader range of muscle groups. I find that if I lubricate the knee by a caster oil wrap this also helps the knee and healing. This is a treatment that works on knees and other parts of the body. Go to the health store and ask about a wool wrap and castor oil. You wrap the body part, knee, ankle, whatever with the wool wrap with castor oil on the body part, use kitchen clear plastic wrap over the wool wrap-saturated with castor oil. The procedure I am using currently. Wrap the knee for about 15min(Castor oil Wrap), then do the stationary bike, then after that ice the knee. Works pretty well. The knee is a long time injury, I think it is slowly getting better and as long as I don't overdo it the bike workouts actually seem to help it. I posted this to give someone else a idea if they wanted to try it out. As for translating to mountaineering, I am wondering about that, shall see, has to help I think. Dan
  21. I am not new to climbing, but new to spring and winter accents in the cascades as a leader. I have looked at whitehorse to climb sometime in the future, maybe this end of winter and spring. I looked at the standard route and the glacier route. I checked the general avalanche forecast for the region and it looks pretty good as far as I know, a 1 for less than 5000 feet and a 2 for above 5000 feet. I not planning to do the climb this weekend as I am tied up Sunday, but would you consider it a green light as far as general avalanche danger and weather conditions? What else should I consider? I know about snow loading in general but not sure how to apply this exactly on this climb. Is there a check list procedure? Thanks Dan
  22. WTF! Climber falls on St Helens!

    To solo down a 70 degree slope with only a mountaineering ice axe, if you had one, would be very difficult and very risky at the least. I am sure his partner and other climbers did all they could. Condolences to family and friends.
  23. WTF! Climber falls on St Helens!

    Never been to that mountain or spot, I imagine to solo down it would have to be suicidal before I would not do it, to get to a partner. Goes to show that self rescue is the best option or at least set up camp around a injured party, if at all possible. I have been thinking to bring bivy gear, even on day trips just for such a accidental, for in case. Belay coat and half sleeping bag, light stove and pot for water. Helo rescue is great, but depends on good weather. Dan
  24. FS, Good use Tents.

    I have a Walrus 4 man tent in very good condition, it is a three to four season convertible tent, to buy a tent like this one new would be around $400, Sell you this one for $200. Good for group climbs or tent camping or base camp, a true four season tent, weight is around 10 pounds. Have a 2 man Coleman peak 1 tent in like new condition $75, it's a three season tent. Weight around 5 pounds. I have an older two man walrus four season tent, good condition except the poles have some cracks in them, I used it like this with no problems myself, the weight is around 6 pounds. $125 I have a well used walrus one man micro tent, used a lot in tent camping, will sell for $50, weight around 3 pounds, much better than a bivy sack, but more weight. I have a Kelty Noah tarp, used maybe once, don't know the price new, sell for half of new price. I live in Mount Vernon about 1.5 drive north of Seattle, phone number is 360 333 3709 Email, wretyduf@rocketmail.com Dan
  25. Epicondylitis, elbow tendonitis, what to do?

    Good clean fish, a few bites a day including the bones will help the healing process. I myself eat a little salmon often out of the can. I get salmon canned in BC, as the wild salmon from Alaska is often canned spoiled it seems to me and often the other is fish farm. I am getting lately the wild catch canned Salmon from BC. I find it in the Mount Vernon Co op. I am at age 41 and one hard climbing trip to the gym a week is all I can handle and heal back up from. When your younger it is hard to believe that a injury can stay injured for forever and ever. As the above says, it is best to make a full recovery. You can push it and really be screwed up for a life time. So heal up totally, and then start to train carefully. Dan