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DanO

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Everything posted by DanO

  1. Gatewood cape for sale

    I have a Gatewood cape and inner fly for sale, full price on both is $135 plus 120$ plus tax and shipping. I will sell both for $120. In very good condition, only used two times. http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/raingear/GatewoodCape.html http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/nettents/Serenity.html It is very good for lite weight hiking and camping with rain protection in combination. I decided I like a bivy sack better for what I do. Thanks Dan
  2. Trip: Buckner - Out of Horseshoe basin and back. Date: 8/13/2016 Trip Report: Hot and buggy, lots of flies not so many mosquitoes. We wanted to do Buckner from Sahale glacier but no overnight permits to camp at the glacier. I imagine many more will be forced onto this route choice after failing to get a Sahale glacier camping permit. However later in the season it seems a good enough option as the snow looked thin for the traverse from Sahale glacier to Buckner and back. But we did see a party of three doing it, couldn't tell how they did it though? Coming out of Horseshoe basin is a bushwhack and rock scramble upward. The bushwhack is only semi difficult if you go the best way. It is best to use a GPS with tracking to find your way back or use cairns or flagging. We left a few cairns, but sill had to use GPS back tracking to find our way back down. Once above the bushwhack area in the green belt and the upper scree fields the going went well, not that bad. As your moving toward the mountain we went up the second left hand snow field (that looked good). We climbed the mountain left to right on the snow, had a rock section in between snow sections where we kept the crampons on. The snow was steep, not extremely steep but close. We used one ice axe and one trekking pole without basket up and down with no protection. Coming down at 3pm the soft snow had my full attention, and I wondered how self arrest would work out so I went down slowly face in, my partner went faster face out. A trekking pole with no basket works pretty well in one hand, just extent it far and it goes in the snow deeper than a ice axe, ice axe in other hand. The upper rock scramble above the snow at the point we went up was easy 3rd class. Plenty of water on route. When got back down to the lower bushwhack and rock scramble it was getting dark. We were not that fast up and down and also got a late start about a hour+ after daylight, so ended up on the bushwhack rock section at dark and unable to tell where to go exactly and had to use the backtrack feature on the GPS. At full dark we decided to Bivy as we thought it too dangerous to continue in the dark. It was a shiver bivy, I had a backpack with it's support foam to lay on and a bivy sack. my partner only had his clothes. In the morning with our GPS backtracking and cairns it was fairly easy to find our way down back the way we went. Going up, when starting out. Looking at the climbers right side of the upper basin We went up at the upper part of the basin at about the lower part of the snow field--located at the creek. Start out right above a waterfall creek and moving upward then left on a bench toward a upper waterfall creek. Again-starting out you scramble up and left, ie go up some and move left on a large rocky bench, keep moving left on broad bench to somewhere before a waterfall, then move diagonally up and slightly to the right, having rock and/or bush whacking how much each depending where you go. About 60% of the way up you cross a creek while moving diagonally right and then keep moving diagonally right (and up) upward on mostly 3rd with a few 4th class rock sections of rock with vegetation. Keep moving up and you run into nice open fields. When at the upper end of Horse shoe basin it is fairly easy to see this route, I would not do the tree filled ridge lower down the basin that one guide book seems to indicate. Just look at the rock and you can see a sort of zig zag pattern. Up first then left on bench, then up up and slightly moving to the right, look for the rock. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, rope and a little pro if anyone shaky on semi steep snow (not super steep, but had my attention) or on low level rock scrambling. GPS with tracking is nice, some minimal bivy gear just in case if possibility of moving slow. Approach Notes: Bugs in the basin, the higher you camp the better it is to get out of the bugs.
  3. It is difficult to know and remember where to draw the exact best route up, so look closely yourself on the way.
  4. Gatewood cape for sale

    I forgot to put in my email wretyduf@rocketmail.com Thanks Dan
  5. Just a heads up Mystery Ranch has a climbing pack, unlike many climbing packs it has a real frame and it is adjustable. That means easier to get a good fitting pack and it should carry a load better. Cons, may be not as good when climbing and have extra weight. I decided to try it out to give my shoulders a break for awhile. I still have a sack like climbing pack that I can use. I have the Pitch 55 and I am in the initial use testing phase. Two other packs I would consider to own is the Pitch 40, and the Ravine for mountaineering. I have no connection with the company. http://www.mysteryranch.com/Packs/Mountain
  6. Mystery ranch climbing pack.

    I have done some climbing with the pack and it did well for me. I have no way to compare it to the other major brands, but I like it. Dan
  7. Trip: Whitehorse - Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: Don't underestimate the hike in, it is a semi bushwhack with many climber trails and different ways to go. I did not run into much devil's club though. It is a work out. Mid July, there was water at the 4000ft pool with it's campsite above, it is mud by July 30. There is a small stream of water running down the trail a ways below the now gone pool of water. It has a couple of small catch basins made out of mud, don't know how long it will last. Above Lone tree pass up high along the ridge line there is a meadow at about 5000 feet, good camping. No water there at July 30. Little water there mid July, may be good water there early July?? It is a 4 foot by 3 foot dug out mud hole made to collect water. There is water at bear lake, that should last the whole summer season, but you have to lose a lot of elevation to camp there. Most would not want to do it. After you drop down the back side of the mountain, high pass is the third major gully that looks like a pass. At July 30 there is a patch of snow about 30 feet wide 50 feet long that has nice water RIGHT before high pass (at around 5000ft). I guess it will last the summer season?? There is also a small hidden stream of water right before this patch of snow in the same area right before high pass. We found some hairy scrambling on a rock line before high pass, probably there is a better way than we went, beware of blindly following climber trails. At the ridge line at high pass there is only enough room for a single one man tent and one bivy sack and be semi comfortable. Not enough room for a two man tent, could try but very uncomfortable--if possible. Could be more spots for a few more bivy sacks, but not comfortable. There is snow to melt at high pass, could tent camp at the glacier at high pass, but not flat glacier, may want to bring a tool to make a flat spot. If you hike from high pass up the glacier about 200 yard there is water running on rocks that you may be able to get too, there is a gap between rock and snow that varies. Likely want a rope. Snow does not firm up much over night, may want some pickets, we use ski poles for pickets. Also there are some places where you can use to belay from, via between the rock and snow. Mountaineer's belay worked well. No ice on glacier where we went, we had no use for ice screws. Did not summit, went to the right of mountain and climbed a rock ridge section above the steep snow. We were climbers right of the mountain on a rock ridge. No tracks on snow to show us where to go from high pass. Camped at high pass, very enjoyable, had good weather. Bivy sack great to see stars at times in between the fog/clouds, the high light of the climb for me. I was toasty warm with a 20 degree bag in a bivy sack with all my clothes. In July through Aug+ or so, there are bugs in the cascades from 3000 ft to 5000ft or so... It can be bad or only semi bad. We had bugs but only semi bad for us. The hike in and climb is likely better early season with lots of snow. It is better to do the climb in dry conditions during summer. The likely hood of falling down and get busted up is much higher with wet rock, grass and mud. Gear Notes: Pack light no more than 35 lbs unless you want to suffer. Ice axe and crampons, if you bring rope bring some snow protection of some sort. Water is harder to find after mid July.
  8. ultralight down quilt or sleeping bag?

    I think part of the equation is how you sleep, if you naturally sleep in a position that is good for a sleeping bag then it works pretty well. If you splay out limbs and thrash some then a quilt may be better. I think on average a quilt is better for moderately warm conditions rather than the really cold. I prefer a quilt or a zipped open sleeping bag when not in really cold conditions. A bivy sack or a single man tent can help hold the drafts down on the sides when using a quilt. I have a Jacks are Better two person quilt that is made well, not sure if it is wide enough for two, no field experience yet. I suspect it will be good for summer alpine with light belay coats for the occasional draft. For cold weather I suspect we (wife and I) need another system or a another quilt in combination(two quilts laying over each other in the middle or attached together) to be warm enough for us. A lot of sleeping needs is individual specific, and how hardman you want to go for a particular trip out. Quilts seem lighter for a given temp rating by the manufacturers, I wonder if there is a lower end in temp that a quilt works well enough as compared to a sleeping bag.
  9. Less than one year old, in good condition, no rips or tears. New $210 with shipping, size of backpack is regular. Good for medium weight loads, very good design backpack for climbing. It is designed to use a sleeping pad as the back support(large sleeve for pad), very convenient for emergency bivy. However, for me the length of the backpack was too short as I have a extra long torso. Will sell for $100 cash, or best offer. A great chance to pick up a climbing backpack. I am located 1.5 hour drive north of Seattle on Interstate 5. Mount Vernon WA. Email, wretyduf@rocketmail.com Or call 360 333 3709 Website for cold cold world. http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/chernobyl.htm Dan
  10. Sold, thanks CC forum. Dan
  11. 2015/2016 Washington Ice Conditions

    NWAC put avy danger high thur but moderate fri, but still dumping rain and snow, I thought danger shouldn't change downward that quick if still dumping. Figured also most ice washed away. Bailed on the trip. Learned via partner 20 min later after bail the road up the pass closed due to avy danger. Another time....
  12. 2015/2016 Washington Ice Conditions

    Thinking of heading to franklin falls on Friday and or Alpintal , first time there for me . What chances for ice and is avy danger there exceptional? Thanks
  13. New Climber needs some shoe help

    If buying new the general rule is to try on all you can and then pick the best one that suits your needs. Most would be better off with summer boots for their first boots for summer mountaineering. One could go to several stores in Seattle try all the boots and then select, find out the return policy before buying. Buying online is more likely to leave u with poor fitting boots.
  14. I have not used a vest much for climbing but really like it for daly use including working outside. I like the thinner kind made of polyester with zipper pockets. I figure polyester is polyester name brand or not. I find nice fleece vests in thrift stores. Tried all kinds, prefer thin ones made of 100% polyester. If I need heavy vest for warmth I prefer insted having a jacket of some kind. In some areas of the world climbers using vests is somewhat popular. Note , when waring a back pack this negates the effectNess of the vest somewhat as the back is always covered
  15. Looking for someone to climb mid week. Moderate alpine or trad rock. Lead around 5.7 trad, a little higher with practice. Like to do some scrambles as well. Located at north cascades and Mountain Loop Highway, mount Erie, can travel some distance though. Thanks
  16. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    I have been reading lately that a thin synthetic sleeping bag over a down sleeping bag will keep the down bag dry. I have not tried this system yet to date but sounds good. I have Salathe bivy sack, I wonder if this would do the same thing or not? I wonder if it would work well to have a down bag then synthetic overbag then a bivy sack over everything? Of course the lightest option is to have a down bag then the bivy sack. That is for total shelter. I saw one writer who said that a synthetic sleeping bag over a down sleeping bag was weather proof, I can't imagine that is true in a rain, it would have to soak through, also wet snow. I have a synthetic bivy coat, I could put that over my down sleeping bag as a sort of synthetic overbag while in the bivy sack. Is that a good option as well? Dan
  17. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    Thanks Rob, I think even a very experienced climber doesn't really understand the differences of situations that a SAR person may get into on a trip out. So far I have not gone on very technical ground on a SAR trip. Even so you can't just pick your spot and may end up on ground that it is not easy to set up a tent. You may be with others as well and this further narrows the spots that are available. Like you say on Pugh, it is a long stretch on third class with very few good spots to camp. When you get to the injured party, most often that is where you are at, good spot to camp or not. I sort of focus on the possibility of a bivy on my trips out, even though a unplanned bivy has been rare for me so far. I think to be light is just carry the bivy sack, some extra clothes and like you say maybe a light sleeping bag. Most likely a 30 degree down bag as this is the lightest I have in my kit. As you say extended trips out in SAR are fairly rare for me so far. Of course if it is dumping rain when I start out I may opt for my synthetic half bag in my kit. I didn't mean to stir up pot when I posted, I had no idea this would have happened.
  18. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    Just because I belong to SAR does not mean I don't walk around on earth like everyone else. I have a lot of experience but no experience with synthetic over bags used over goose down sleeping bags. Hence the question. How many here have this experience. I just wanted to hear about others experiences, etc. 99% in SAR are volunteers, unpaid, buy own personal gear, etc. My experience, done a fair amount of climbing, a average climber. Can do up to 5.8 trad these days. Can lead around WI 3 on ice. Never been lost in the mountains. Done some decent climbs, plan to do some more. SAR is always looking for good climbers and ground pounders to help out. Often enough only a few guys are all that show up on missions, especially at first. Of course sometimes many show up. Maybe someday in the future one of u posters will show up at a mission? That would be nice, welcome it, I mean that. Good Day Fin
  19. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    Thanks for the tips. Thinking about all of them. I think it too heavy for most missions to have a overbag with a down bag. Good day.
  20. Bivy Sack as Overbag?

    In SAR, So don't have the luxury to choose a good spot to camp every time... Or when on a mountain. Trying to be light as possible. Most times don't have to bivy, but good to have that option, without the chattering shakes when it arises without excessive weight. Seems like the best option is a mountaineering bivy sack(one where you can sit on a ledge if need be), a belay coat and a super light 30 degree down sleeping bag with a pad. May throw in a synthetic overbag or a change up to a 20 degree sleeping bag with extra weight if colder and or more likely to bivy. Being a gear junky I wonder how the synthetic overbag over a down sleeping bag would work out. Thanks all Dan
  21. http://www.everytrail.com/guide/herman-saddle-ski-tour There is a little bit of top ropeable or even climbable ice on mount baker. On the way to Herman saddle along the creak bed there is a bit of ice on the right hand side. Last year I managed to get above it and set up a top rope. It is climbable on lead I think if one can get sticks as when get above the ice. It is a short single pitch of about 20ft max of ice, a couple of lines possible. As I remember it is before the very first lake on map , in the creek bed narrow gulley. I may go there again this year. Dan
  22. layers

    I personally will not risk down clothing in any potential serious survival situation. Yes down is warm and packs down small and light, it is far better to carry than synthetic in this regard but it will not insulate when wet. If one was in a dry climate then down clothing is a consideration. As for down sleeping bags that is a good choice as long as you plan to carry a good quality tent that is double wall. Down sleeping bags you are on a clock of one to a two days when damp such as a bivy sack in bad weather or a dripping snow cave or a leaky tent. So far the synthetic sleeping bags have not been warm enough for me as compared to down sleeping bags. But I have not tried the newest synthetics. In fact if one is on a budget a simple heavy polyester insulated coat with a hood is not a bad option for a over top layer if it is waterproof or made waterproof. Imagine stuck out on a mountain, raining all night without a tent you can't stay dry. You will be soaked to the bone most likely. Even with a poncho it is hard to stay dry. Wet from sweat and wet from rain. And that is one night, several days and nights then it is impossible to stay dry. In fact I have been wondering about the old school boiled wool sweaters, want to find one cheap at a thrift store to test out. Dan
  23. I have never tried to go to Strobach. Looks very interesting, wish I had a snowmobile. I am looking in the Washington Ice guidebook. It looks to me a person can get in there with skies in a "reasonable" amount of time if they are a hard man. The big advantage of skis is coming back out, going downhill. It can take as long as a mile an hour going uphill on skis or snowshoes in decent conditions. It looks like three miles uphill to the ice. To get down on skies can be 15--30 minutes to 45 minutes or so, downhill on snowshoes is around 2x faster than uphill. Snowshoes can be faster/better in woods, most often is, but skis better in more open areas. Yesterday the snow was soft,(at Alpental) even with snowshoes I was sinking up to 2 feet when off trail, breaking trail in that condition will exhaust you in a short time and you will get nowhere even with snowshoes, bring tail extensions if you have them. The larger snowshoes are better in soft conditions, mine are the normal sized older styled MSR's made of plastic. The book has no GPS coordanents for the ice climbs in strobach, I find that very helpful at alpental. It is a four hour drive for me to get there, if I lived nearby, like--with in a hour or so I would be all over the place. Good luck let us you know what you find, if serious about climbing get a early start. It is likely better to spend a trip just to figure out the area, to go in light and even to solo hike on such a trip. Check the avalanche forecast and watch the avalanche conditions while hiking. As a general rule it is fairly safe in the trees, getting less safe when going out in the open. (I know your not a newbie, I just like writing) Dan
  24. Hello, I misread the Wa state ice conditions site. On the bright side I found the location of the climbs for next time when it is actually in. There is ice there, but not that much and a lot of snow cover. Not enough to climb, at least for me, pretty thin. Thanks Dan
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