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Everything posted by DanO

  1. Fresh toe warmers do work, old ones do not. Make a big difference, also may check on heated socks as an alternative. Old toe warmers loose their strength sitting on the store shelf. 6 hours of toasty toes per install, do some testing to see if you like and concur.
  2. question Alpine, ice climbing pack

    Any of the adjustable frame packs made for climbing may be what you want I have the Mystery Ranch one, Osprey makes one, I think Gregory has one. I prefer the design where you can put a close cell foam pad on the outside of the pack, on the side, not bottom. The lighter made packs can be painful with a +/- 30 pound load, so I went to the mystery ranch adjustable framed pack (Pitch). You do pay a weight penitently for a framed pack, so I think of times going back to a zero framed pack, However for me I need a frame if much over 20 pound loads. By the way if doing mail order it can be hard to get the right size, be sure to make sure the size is right, sometimes the recommendation of the maker are wrong. Adjustable frame is nice, a longer frame pack often feels better until you put in long miles then it starts to hurt the tops of the legs were you raise them up against the pack waist strap.
  3. By the way the most breathable fabric I found to date is a Bull Frogg jacket by Frogg Toggs. (mouth on fabric breath test) But it does saturate with water when running in the rain.... Event is very breathable via the breath through fabric test.. Like most everything it is nice to verify things yourself in some fashion, no trust and verify. >) Dan
  4. Thinking of trying columbia outdry jacket and pants or bibs. Mostly for cool to cold weather bushwhacking. ?? Looking for info or recomendations, thanks. I have a packa which is ok for useage on trail but not so good in climbing situations and dealing with gear on pack.
  5. I can breath through the event fabric in my bivy sack made of event. The outdry I tried was like non breathable rain gear, but there may be other outdry fabrics than what I tried. Dan
  6. I decided not to buy an Outdry for now. I have a very unscientific test method of putting my mouth on the fabric to see if I can move air through it. By this test it is non breathable.... However it could be OK anyway , as most breathable materials actually do not work anyway in rain especially combined with wet brush. For me If it is wet out and I am moving I get wet no matter what in a few hours,. wet from sweat and rain. I doubt there is any magic way to stay dry in rain if your hiking at any real pace. Even when I use a flappy loose poncho I get wet on a trail, if moving in heavy rain. However I never tried the super high end expensive gear. I do know that the waterproof breathable gear if soaked with rain, whetted out, holds a lot of water, hard to dry out, not good, sucks out body heat trying to dry it out,,,,, the non breathable stuff is likely better in really wet conditions. Dan
  7. Sorry, I don't have any tents to trade at the moment, ebay has good deals. I recently ordered a 3F tunnel tent on Aliexpress.com Dirt cheap direct order china site. Takes forever to get it shipped in (month or two) and quality I think semi good but no experience yet with this particular tent yet. I do try to mix in my local USA cottage industry buys with china goods, most everything made in china anyway, just cut out the FAT middle man with direct order. Good luck
  8. One more thing I pre tie my tarp tie outs and leave them on the tarp. Most of them should be around 4 feet long. The front one is about 10 feet long and one at the rear about 10 feet long, 2 long strings just in case I want to do a lean too set up. The front and rear tie out string is a different color for ease of set up. Take the effort to find the lightest tie out string as you will save a few ounces. Sometimes the string balls up when unpacking the tarp, but it usually works pretty good. Set up is harder than a free standing tent but goes well enough with practice and you can set up in places that simply won't work for a tent. This comes in handy almost on every hike or climb I do as we are in back country. Most of the time you can wrap the string around rocks, sometimes the tent pegs are really needed.
  9. By the way for any who may be interested the feathered friends Vireo sleeping bag is great with a puffy jacket and plenty roomy and can't get much lighter for a sleeping bag. It is good to about 30 degrees and I am a cold sleeper. I suggest getting the longest one as it is possible to pull it over the head if needed and I like it over my shoulders anyway, the weight is about a pound and it is possible to get one made with more fill for colder weather if wanted.
  10. Second the tarp idea. The last couple of years I have been using a tarp and a light bivy sack combo for good weather. If the forecast is close to 100 percent clear and if your not camping up super high during the summer, a tarp works good. You will need extra bug protection if the bugs are bad. I suggest a silnylon tarp 9X9 or 8X10 or 10X10 and SOL breathable bivy sacks. There are three models to choose from all are good. Do not get the SOL non breathable bivy sacks, the breathable ones are good to use for camping until they fall apart which can take a long time. My system is a feathered friends Vireo sleeping bag, a SOL bivy sack and tarp with my goose down jacket for near perfect weather forecasts. If any significant percentage bad weather forecast I take a synthetic jacket (around 20% and above chance of rain). I have been using 8X10, 1.5 lb tarp (including 6 stakes) along with a 8 oz SOL bivy sack with a 17oz, Vireo sleeping bag. It would be hard to get a much lighter system. I have a particular way of setting up my tarp so it is like a tent with a open front. For my set up you need a tie in point under the center of the tarp. Look at CCS tarps, Cooke Custom Sewing. Tarps they have a quad loop center tie under the tarp to attach a trekking pole. Also I use a tie in point at the front of the tarp. I use two trekking poles for set up. It is cheaper and better to use a simple rectangular or square tarp for climbing as you can find places to set up that you can't hardly use with a tent or a tarp that can be set up only one way. The bonus is a simple tarp is cheaper and often lighter than the fancy tarps. I sometimes carry a bug jacket if I think the bugs are going to be really bad. If you can get above about 5000+ feet to camp the bugs are not so bad in camp. Cheapish square tarps can be found on Ebay. However most do not have the quad loop sewn under the tarp, you can ask it to be added or sew it on yourself. CCS tarps are set up perfect and a USA made product The CCS 8x10 or 10X10 tarps are good for two, especially with a light bivy sack. One can find lighter Cuben tarps but cost much. Best for the money is a 1.1oz per square yard silnylon, one can look hard for a silpoly tarp for about same cost maybe a little lighter depending what you find. I rode out some mild weather with a tarp and bivy combo and it is safe unless your pushing your luck with altitude or weather forecast or very windy areas. Here is the set up I use most every time, a quad loop tie in under the tarp center is needed. I usually put the length at 8 feet and width at 10 feet which gives tons a of room for two guys and gear, much more than a tent and plenty of protection for good weather. One can also use a 9x9, or even 10x10 for lots of protection from rain. Do not camp in a depression. If weather gets really bad a pyramid set up is possible, or drop the open end down close to the ground. You can spend more money for a bivy sack than for the SOL breathable bivvy sack but they are hard to beat in performance only a little small. The SOL escape pro is the most expensive but gives a little more room that the SOL escape, the SOL escape lite is a little lighter but no way to cinch up the head area. The big bonus is being able to carry a light water proof bivy sack up high on the climb. This set up is not that expensive compared to others. One can sew their own tarp but the cost savings is really not there for the first go around as compared to ordered tarps. However sewing a tarp is fairly simple and fun project if into that sort of thing.
  11. Took it out once to try it out. Decided not for me. Will sell for half price plus shipping $110 bucks. Wretyduf@rocketmail.com Thanks Dan
  12. Anyone know of trekking poles designed for self arrest via pole In arm pit method? Works well if pole does not bend or break. Dan
  13. By the way you do this with no basket on ski pole for best self arrest effect on soft snow. A bare ski pole works very well in snow if you want security. You can do a lot with it that you otherwise unable to do. Going uphill is much better you have a another shaft to stab in, same for downhill, two poles downhill works well, or one ski pole and ice axe downhill works well. Extend one pole way out and place the tip below your boot while hiking side hilling it will prevent the boot from blowing all the way out if it slips. Downhill hand with trekking pole. Bare tip trekking poles can save your butt, but you tend to mangle your poles at times. Dan
  14. Ski pole is much longer than pick of ice axe, you can get it deeper to where the firm snow lies. Only works if you can prevent ski pole from levering out, the best way I have found in the arm pit method. If you are using ice axe on very steep soft snow your unable to get pick of ice axe into firmer snow that can grab, you can dig in feet of course and that helps. I have not done the testing to prove it, but I suspect a ski pole self arrest is likely to be much better with very soft snow conditions, BUT you can bend and break the pole if you use the lower section of pole extended. I am thinking of getting some solid aluminum rod to try out for lower sections of my trekking poles to see how that works. I like to extend my pole or poles way out for side hilling and downhill Dan
  15. https://www.google.com/search?q=ski+pole+self+arrest&client=tablet-android-samsung&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjZquy9tvfUAhUI2mMKHQI6BXwQ_AUICSgB&biw=1280&bih=800#imgrc=OgJual7EQDdLmM: I do something like this but upper hand is lower and pole is in arm pit, pole less likely to break with lowest section retracted. Works very well with medium soft to soft snow, likely a LOT better than a ice axe in very soft snow. Not as good as axe in harder icy snow. It is a shame this skill is not well known. I am thinking of building my own poles because of the lack of knowledge of this skill etc, and the gear for it that I would prefer. I would want a hard solid spike for the lower section of the pole for most usage. Like steep slick ground and for snow. Dan
  16. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Whitepine creek or whitepine drool, is still in, it is slowly going away due to melting. I climbed it this last Saturday. I guess it should last a few weeks longer, while melting and ice going away to rock and snow. I hit a few soft spots.. The most easy way to climb is to start over to the right take most easy path up to tree to right, sling the tree then climb up and left taking the most easy way, can repel a tree far left not at the top of the climb or climb to the top of the ice fall someplace. around 3+ the most easy way, solid 4 other ways up. Dan
  17. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Anyone know if White Pine Creak is still in? It is between Leavenworth and Stevens pass Thanks Dan
  18. OK, I think a bothy bag can be the best in certain situations. For what I want and most of what I do I am going look into getting a light square tarp. It is possible to fold a tarp into a small 2 man pyramide tent for two with a trekking pole (videos on net). A tarp bivy combo will leave you dryer in the morning and so less likely to wet out gear. And can do a fire if under tree line. The lightest breathable Bivi's that are cost effective that I know of are Tera Rosa's tyvek bivy 5.5oz . SOL escape bivy 8oz, and SOL escape lite bivy 5.5oz. Look for the breathable escape bivy sacks. The more heavy one is equal to a 50 degree F sleeping from what read on the net. A non breathable blizzard bag is another option. Hope to have personal extra bivy gear weight under 1.5lb including pad and fire starting gear. I think a bothy can be lighter and better in many situations but for me a light tarp and bivy should be more useful more often, so I will hold off on the bothy for the time being. Thanks all.
  19. So it seams that if conditions are really bad up high a bothy is a OK option for an emergency. A tarp bivy combo is likly better down lower and in not as bad conditions. I am thinking of equal weight systems and two or more people. I will try one out and see if I can get it to breath better and stay warm. Another situation is where one person is carrying emergency gear for two or more for some reason. Then bothy may be better, especially in no trees for fire when stoped, IE above tree line or on sea shore etc. Otherwise tarp and fire is my preference for longer term stop. Taking quick comfy breaks may make a bothy worthwhile enough to carry depending on the whole situation of trip out, and have emergency overnight shelter to boot. Thanks
  20. http://www.fieldandstream.com/node/1006033122 I like to bring Firestarter, if one makes it to the treeline and has a ice axe or can get a stout stick to dig with then can make a fire bed. One way to entertain yourself for a long cold night. I actually prefer a tarp with long fire combo for emergency shelter but often pretty far above tree line, so hard to find dry wood in quanity. Lack of being able to use fire with a bothy was bothering me, a fire bed solves this problem and is a way pass time for several hours. Bothy bag steam bath!!
  21. Likely right on being a sweat lodge, from what I read from UK forums it is not a bad option for two or more people as it can be fairly warm for the weight, 10 to 20+ degrees F over outside temp. It is not as particularly good for an overnight as for a break in nasty weather. I think I will try one out and see how it goes. One concern that I have is wetting out down gear. For me it would be used for emergency bivy, I think weight wise it can make sense, if your willing for two and more to only carry it and light pads with clothing. I think the two man would be ok for super light for harder climbs, the four man for less hard climbs. The Two man is pretty tight and less likely to bring in gear, the four man should be more more comfy for two and can bring in gear or more people-if had too. This just my thinking, I have no experience, there are lighter bothies than the brooks range one, but it is said to be breathable, so that should help a little with the wetting out fog inside. Thanks
  22. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Did Whitepine creek Yesterday "Washington ice guide book" Page 86, In enough but soft and plenty of bare rock under snow, plenty of bashing out soft ice to bare rock with tools as well, doable but thin in places. We started at the right of the falls wondered up and right to a big tree about mid way. Then went up and left, and farther left before the absolute top of climb and repelled off a tree. Our Green sling is still on the tree we repelled off of. I imagine conditions will be better in a week or so. I suggest crossing the railroad bridge and walking in a good ways up the tracks to see the climbing spot/falls then angle in to the ice falls--if you have never been there before. Doing this method you will run into water in a low area. Unless you go around this low area to the road that runs across the face of the area before the falls. If you go straight into the cliff area without spotting the ice falls the falls are very hard to find, lot more work to boot and time wasted. Did not use snowshoes, snowshoes seem to hurt as much as they help but make your own decision, it may be deeper snow as well into the future. Snow up to crotch in places, mostly below the knees and lesser though. Great fun!!! Grade is about 3 to 3+ if you pick the easiest way to go Grade 4 and maybe more the harder ways.
  23. I have a larger down bag that has a waterproof but breathable fabric on the inside and it works pretty well drying out very wet clothing and not collapse the down. It is a sort of breathable vapor barrier. I can use this bag but is a little heavy and bulky to carry. Also it is not water proof from the outside in and must have a very good shelter(good tent) around it. It is too large with down mat to go into my event bivy sack. I also use a event bivy sack and down quilt. I would like to be able to dry out very wet clothing in this after hiking out in the rain and not collapse the down insulation in my sleeping quilt. The ways I am considering is a breathable vapor bag, something made from a gore tex like material, and use this inside the sleeping bag. To warm up and fan out the moisture from time to time inside the clothes I am wearing. This inside a very overrated down quilt for the expected temp. This would in effect protect the down quilt insulation but not leave you in a sweat box once your dried out. Another thought is to use a synthetic over quilt, over the down quilt. Ether alone or with the gore tex vapor inner sack. Can a synthetic over quilt work alone? If so, maybe this is the best option. What temp rating for the overquilt for colder rainy weather? Another thought is to get a 20 degree synthetic quilt to use alone in rainy weather, thinking of one with clamisheild insulation. To use alone or with the inner gore tex vapor sack. Thoughts? Thought of getting a buffalo pile sleeping bag but seems too heavy and bulky to be suitable. Would really like to try one out but a little expensive for experimentation and likely too bulky and heavy to carry. Very big and bulky as compared to down. I want a wet weather system that can handle drying out clothes when soaking wet. Ideally, set up shelter and lay down sleeping system. Shake out wet clothing and wring fleece and pile clothing etc, go into sleeping system wearing wet clothing, get warm and eventually dry out clothing in some hours. Sleeping system dry and ready to go next night, no worries. Maybe this is impossible without a pile sleeping bag? Any thoughts?
  24. Ugggggg Does REI sell man rain skirts....
  25. Hello, I decided to try a kind of poncho called the packa. The type I am getting is silnylon. So it is an non wetoutable hard shell upper. For legs not sure yet, will try some light gore tex pants that I already have. Other options are chaps or rain skirt or non breathble hardshell. The advantage of these hard shells is not worrying about drying them out at camp. Second approach at the same time is a pertex wind shirt with much pile/fleece. I will likely use a merino base layer since it is much more comfortable wet than a polyester base for me. The goal is to shed light rain and staying dry by the pile pertex method. If rain comes too hard, shed layers as needed and go to the non breathable but ventable hardshell approach. At camp, take off outside hard shell rain wear. Then use sleeping system to dry out the rest. Using a over rated sleeping bag. In my experience one needs at least 20 degrees over rating to dry damp to wet clothing. I am going to use a semi breathable vapor inner bag or layer to protect the insulation of my sleeping bag. Going to try a tyvek inner bag first to see how it goes. Stephenson's warmlite bags have such a vapor barrier built in and it works very well. When you warm up in bed you fan extra moisture out into open air, of course wring out clothing before you get into place if needed, you can see the need for an over rated bag, 20 degrees +++ over the expected lowest temp. After you get the bulk of moisture out, sleep like normal and be dry by morning and the plan is everything inside the event bivy sack to be dry by morning ready for next day. I am surprised that a semi breathable inner vapor layer is not more commonly made by sleeping bag manufacturers. If I use a down quilt, event bivy sack, with a semi breathable inner vapor sack. I think I can dry clothes and keep the down dry. Even in a 100% humidity outside environment the down quilt inside the event bivy sack should have a much dryer micro environment---at least in the morning. I like wool clothing well enough except it is harder to dry than synthetic, so at this point will keep wool to a min, even leaning toward Synthetic socks and gloves, even these small items hold a lot of water and dry slower.