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MrDoolittle

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Everything posted by MrDoolittle

  1. Bolting Hard Trad Routes

    When it comes to bolting hard trad routes, should you place the bolts near obvious rests, or next to hard-to-get placements?
  2. Is the Bush turning Green?

    I'm sure that if you read the fine print, there's a provision that allows Haliburton access to bog methane extraction or some shit like that. Bush is a fuck, and whatever he does licks the balls of his corporate masters, garunteed.
  3. Bolting Hard Trad Routes

    Yeah, it is a bit of a hike getting into those climbs. Maybe a tunnel inside of liberty bell, you could drive to the top, and walkways between the summits for link-ups.
  4. Bolting Hard Trad Routes

    A lot of Squish climbs could use a ladder to the first bolt. I think I'd prefer rap-laddering of laddering on lead. And with an aluminum ladder, you could fix it in place like Gripped suggests above without damaging the rock by beating the top of the thing into cracks like a bashie. But would a copper ladder be better?
  5. Check this out!

    Thanks Peter_Pungent!! Did you happen to catch the subliminal message in the intro, namely that Bush is winning the money fueled drag-race to the finish? I was glad to see that I live in an area that shares my political leanings, yet also a bit disturbed to find so much personal information so readily available on this website. I wonder if the donors were made aware that their personal info would be used in such a fashion... I also took a look at the ZIP I had Back East, and HOLY SHIT there is a lot of money bieng thrown down!!!! Who has $2000 to give to any of these clowns????
  6. SR20 Open????

    The post regarding Newhalem craggin access seems to suggest that SR20 is open only to "administrative traffic". I looked at the WSDOT website, but I couldn't find any information to confirm whether SR20 is open, or closed, or what. Anyone have any reliable information regarding any current closures or restrictions? Thanks a bunch!! -J
  7. SR20 Open????

    Thanks! A little more diggin, and I did find the info, plus some cool pics of new culvert insertion.
  8. And while you're on the subject of birth control

    "casting a shadow across the sport of pelvic powerlifting"
  9. real trad ratings

    One time, my foot got stuck in a crack. AY-KURUMBA!!
  10. Oh yea..Bouldering is lame...

    Diesel13 said: I perceive a pack of pointless pack-less puffy pad people pausing to ponder a pube-less pubescent punk pulling profitless pumpy pebble pockets. Bitch. And where can I get me one of them inflatable jackets? Is this on the way to class or something? Cuz' everyone's got a bookbag. Budda-BING! Thank you! I'll be here every night this week!
  11. real trad ratings

    Skipping holds deliberately(extra challenge) is different from accidently skipping holds(poor style), though. Feel free to skip all of the holds you want. On an aside, when and where you place gear on a trad climb can also effect the difficulty. For instance, a finger crack that rises and traverses is super-hard to protect and climb if you place gear IN FRONT of you. You end up filling the best finger jams with gear. You also increase your exposure to a longer fall while clipping. But if you place the gear BEHIND you, you're all set. This is counter-intuitive to some trad leaders, and seems more ballsy because the next moves aren't "protected". ie. you're not on TR for the next few moves, you're on lead the whole time. The same can be said for a steep hand crack. It's a lot easier to place gear at your waist and it makes your clips easier, but, again, you don't get the "TR Effect" of placing your gear above you.
  12. Dave Shuldtz's hero

    And what was Bush doing in 1971? I agree with E. I'd vote for Osama Bin Laden if he were running against Bush. Have your heard the man talk lately? He sounds like he's totally lost it..
  13. real trad ratings

    I agree with ass-go-kiss. Climbing a trad route is just as hard/easy as climbing a sport route, as far as the climbing is concerned. Of course, the challenge of protecting a trad route is absent from sport climbs. You can also make a trad route HARDER though, by stuffing gear into your hand jams, for instance. You can't really do this climbing sport. I haven't clipped bolts much, but sometimes I find it to be more MENTALLY challenging. No matter how hard the climbing is, or what the run-out is, you have to make it to the next bolt. And if it looks sketch, you can't stuff in a nest of stoppers and go for it, or sew it up, or hang on gear, you've got to climb. So... Technically: Trad = Sport Pro. Challenge: Trad > Sport Balls: Danger: Trad > Sport Learning Curve: Trad > Sport God has spoken. End transmission.
  14. Today is a VERY SPECIAL DAY!!!

    420!!! Celebrate accordingly!!!
  15. Power Places

    Any clear-cut. The trees are small and cute, and the views are killer.
  16. real trad ratings

    Bob said:
  17. Awaiting the Rapture???

    I'm all for campaign finance reform... I can't wait until they all disappear up to Heaven, so that I can have their stuff.
  18. Free soloing

    "I was driving to the crag once, and I was obeying the speed limit, and there were all these other cars on the road, and they were driving really fast, and I got pissed at them, because if they had gotten into a car accident, I would have had to do something to help."
  19. Good eats up high

    uh. what are you talking about? galactose v. fructose
  20. real trad ratings

    But the Hubers could climb 8b before they started crack climbing.
  21. Oh yea..Bouldering is lame...

    What's really cool is the presence of all those glacial erratics in the middle of the desert. Erratics are COOL!
  22. Bolts save trees

    If no mention is made of the mining processes required to extract the ores from the ground, or the mining processes required to extract the coal required for smelting and forging the steel, or the oil extraction and refining processes required to create the oil to ship the bolts, sure, bolts are great for the environment. Unless you're free-soloing barefoot, any type of climbing is most certainly BAD for the environment.
  23. Oh yea..Bouldering is lame...

    She's three feet off the ground. Bouldering is LAME.
  24. Greyskull Valley

    Gee, I don't know, maybe it's on the MAP?
  25. TR: Flying to NH

    Flew to NH on ATA. DO NOT FLY WITH ATA!!!!! Worst flying experience ever. They booked five flights to leave in a 30min time frame, with five people working the ticket counter, after having a flight cancelled night before due to engine failure the night before. I took them two hours to load our plane, they were BEGGING people to volunteer to get off for two free RT tickets to anywhere they flew, we missed our connecting flight, sat in Shitcago for two and a half hours, and they didn't even comp us drinks!!! Fuckers... On the bright side, we showed up at Avis expecting a Geo Metro and ended up with a BRAND NEW 2004 Mitsubishi Eclipse convertible with 23 miles on it. I guess they rent the new cars out as "economy" vehicles until they are broken in. Rest assured, it will be WELL broken in when they get it back See you in hell, -J
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