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pzack

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Everything posted by pzack

  1. Before the Crusades was the Islamic Conquests... Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, North Africa, Spain, Parts of France and the Byzantine empire were all attacked/conquered by the first series of Jihads. When making historical arguments, keep things in historical context.
  2. I don't know John Kennedy, and Dru, you may or may not be no John Kennedy.
  3. I was climbing at Exit 32 last week, and someone put a line of bolts right up a perfectly good 5.9 crack. Why would someone bolt where there is plenty of good pro?
  4. Maybe you shouldn't have gone climbing at a crag called "Gun Show".
  5. Not as bad as the seattle right wing poseurs! The scary part is that people from Portland really DO think that Seattllites are Extemist Right Wingers. Last time I was down there, I opened the door for my girlfriend, and some hippy dude rolled by on his Bicycle yelling, "This is the 21st century you misogynist pig!". PDX
  6. Nice. The "tweaked ankle" was actually a "65' fall" with "lacerations" and probable "fractures".
  7. pzack

    Out of the Closet

    Naw, I bet he's rattin' out 007.
  8. GORDY'S STEAK & BBQ SMOKEHOUSE Thursday nights is biker night. Beer and a Brat for $4 or $5. Many cool Harleys lined up. Live country music too. (S.Side of E32)
  9. pzack

    Strange indeed

    Mushroom! Mushroom
  10. You should really just get the whole set of books. CAG is the Cascade climber's Bible. If you keep your eyes open, you can get them for about $15 each at used book stores. (Powells Books in Oregon usually has the whole set available at $15-$18 each) And if you're a newbie, I'd get Jeff Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains" It has a ton of scrambles and glacier climbs to gnash your teeth on.
  11. That *was* strange how all three parties converged at once. That was a bummer with the camera. It was on his pack or something. He lifted it to his back and it glided off towards the South Face. The timing of the sound effects were sort of funny. Bonk ... Bang ... ... ... Boink ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Crawkunk!!! "Maybe you should rapell down and get it."
  12. I got some shots of you from the North ridge:
  13. Y'all might want to rethink your numbers... what with the growth hormones in milk these days, toddlers are bulkin' up quick: After spending time in the custody of child welfare authorities, a three-year-old toddler weighing 120 pounds was returned to her parents in Albuquerque, New Mexico.ยป
  14. Everything you need to know is in FOH.
  15. pzack

    Laptop suggestions

    A very nice feature for travelling: Make sure that you can plug in two battery packs (in place of CD/Disk drives). That way you can use the laptop for up to 4 hours without recharging.
  16. I did this by mistake. It was my second time trad leading, and my first time in Squamish. I was thinking, "Man, Squamish 5.8 is tight!" I don't remember placing big gear on the first (true) pitch either.
  17. Yep. Our Back up plan was to climb the NE Buttress on Colchuck (in the unlikely event that there were people in front of us on the route) but I don't think I'd want to descend Colchuck glacier right now in instep crampons. Also, on the dragontail descent there is already a lot of water ice on that mini-glacier off south shoulder. You might need crampons really soon for that too.
  18. Climb: Dragontail -Serpentine Arete Date of Climb: 7/28/2004 Trip Report: This Wednesday, climbed Dragontail Peak in one long day. We were in sneakers, and the snow pushed us West of the standard start up the class 3 ledges. We saw some interesting climbing above us and decided to climb straight up rather than traverse East to the standard start. Looking in the Beckey guide I see that this is one of the lower variations to the West of the standard route. This supplied some fun climbing from 5.5 to maybe 5.7-5.8 with some slabby cracks, a dihedral and a gruntable chimney. We linked up with the standard class 3 ledges just below the 5.7 pitch that takes you to the pillar. The pitches at the pillar are really outstanding. Jerry led the first pitch to the top of the pillar, and then I linked up the second and third pitches. From there, it's 1300' of brutish, power scrambling. We ran a series of endless running belays. We stayed on the ridge as much as possible, until we approached the summit, then we popped out to the ledges on the right, climbed a couple 100 feet, and then got back on the ridge and traversed left around the summit to the S. Route. Times: 2 hours to the lake 1.5 hours to the base of the route .5 hours to eat, relax and gear up 2.5 hours to the base of the pillar 4 hours from the base of the pillar to the summit .5 hours enjoying summit views and eating lunch. 4.5 hours to the car We were passed at the pillar by some guy soloing the route. His partner bailed so he decided to go anyways. He started 3 hours after we did. We saw his tracks heading out towards the enchantments as we headed to Aasgard pass. WR of Prusik? Yep! We saw him hiking up the Icicle on our way out. We picked him up and drove him to mile-8. He seemed bummed, because he was too gassed to RUN back to the Stuart lake trailhead. Gear Notes: Rack to 2 inches. Cams were more useful than chocks on this route. Instep Crampons (didn't use) Ice Axe (very useful on the descent) Approach Notes: You can stay off the snow all the way to the base of the route (except for 20' of flat snow) Lots of bugs from the lake up to 7000'
  19. I turned my rock shoes into molten rubber on Dreamer. Stay off that one in the heat!
  20. pzack

    cams and nuts

    Cam Range Info for Many Brands
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