snoboy

NoahT has the quickest solution. The only problem I see is that you are then loading the F8 knot in expansion which isn't ideal. I wouldn't worry about the sliding around - it's going to allow the load to settle in and equalize properly. Just make sure the angle is not too great where the biner is clipped in. The 1st (doubled F8B) of your ideas looks fine. You could rethread the bight (not bite) that you have clipped in the 1st pic back through the original F8 and you would have a nice shortened up MAP (master attachment point). Or just grab the whole lot originally and tie it that way...

Hmmm, since it's a pay as I go phone, and nobody important has my number on record as belonging to me, I'm not to worried...

Indeed! I think we went over that in another thread recently, but the numbers once you get into FF1 - ie your tie in level with your harness attachment - can become scary, especially using spectra slings and the like.

yeah, no 911 on my dialed numbers. I didn't give them anything except my name and cel number. I am sure the dispatch would have a blocked number... 911 dispatch around here is screwy enough (I deal with them on a semi regular basis at work) that I could see this being a legit screwup, but it seemed odd.

I thought this was going to be a thread about REI or MEC...

So here's the deal... My pay as you go cell phone goes off, shows a "private number" and I answer. The person at the other end says the are from 911 dispatch, and they had just gotten a call fom my number. Thing is I haven't dialed 911... they say maybe it was in my pocket and dialed itself - possible as my phone has really exposed buttons, and tends to dial random numbers if I leave it unlocked. The caller asks for some info - my name... I gave it to them. Now I am wondering WTF?

Typically a fall factor zero (ie dropping onto a sling with no slack, bounce testing, etc) will generate a force equivalent to 2-2.5 x the weight, so assuming your average sport climber is a svelte 80kg, that would be about 1.6-2kN. I think a static sling will increase this somewhat, because that figure is for a typical low stretch rope.

Who says Spray is useless...

Try OpenOffice? It's a free office suite with a built in export to PDF function.

AKA Sean's Book of Lies... apparently not just the grades are sandbagged, but the approach times too.

Are you sure about that? My understanding is that rope tends to lose about 30-35% due to knots, but webbing loses closer to 50%.

Try the permit exchange forum...

Blackcomb Mtn on fire near the Crystal zone - evacuation and closure in progress according to CBC.

Strength of 6mm = 6.88kN (low according to what I've seen in a quick web search), x 2 because it's in a loop, times .66 to account for loss of strength in knot = 9.1kN strength. Climber mass(UIAA definition) = 80kg, gravity = 10m/s^2, climber "weight" = .8kN. Max force you can generate in a FallFactor 0 = 2.5 x weight... Max force 80kg climber can generate in a bounce (FF0) = 2.0 kN vs. 9.1kN for a tied 6mm sling = pretty good safety factor IMO. It sure looks spooky though...

A+ for that TR!

Yeah, TLG is right, it's better to rap in. The hike approach crosses the slide of death... and will dunk you right in the heavy duty whitewater below if not careful... Sorry, but I would have no idea how to find it now that the highway is changed. Ask at Valhalla Pure on your way up perhaps?

http://www.northshorerescue.com/chargingforrescues.html

I always understood that the grey ones break, and the yellow ones are OK. is that wrong?

All you daisy chain lovers might want to read up on impact forces, and the resultant.. uhhh.. results of falling onto daisy chains, especially our beloved spectra ones. Here is a good place to start: PDF on lanyard fall testing. The PAS is particularly interesting... I dunno about the less to screw up part. Many people don't clip their daisy correctly, and are essentialy atached by a low strength system. The two daisy chains I have had the pleasure of pull testing failed at 3.6kN, and 5.6kN, when pulled across the pocket stitching. Typically they fail at 2-5kN when tested in this configuration. [Gibbs - 2005] Good enough for clipping into CCH Aliens I guess.

Are you implying that your numbers are imaginary?

It has a dozen routes on Gimli, 4 on Nisleheim, and 2 on Wolf's Ears.

Picked up a copy today. Looks pretty good. Includes an 8p 5.8 just up the road from me?!?! Gimli is a 5.10 now apparently...

It is for opening tight passages, and also may be used for cutting sharp edges down to simplify rigging. At least that's what I have read.

There is definetly lots of potential in this area, but IMO it needs a critical mass of local climbers to start developing crags. Perhaps this guide will inspire that.

IMHO thecamdoctor is pretty second rate way to fix your cams. Wait until you go to Squamish or something and drop them off at Valhalla Pure for a good job by your local climbing bum who has the right tools...