skykilo
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Posts posted by skykilo
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That's amazing.
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Ditto to all of Marc's info. I did it with a #9 VG and it's the right size but cams like that can be prone to rotation and it's still a lot of distance with one piece of pro.
Also, second the comment about Wild Turkey -- that is a classic and I will be much more likely to repeat it than Pipeline! And you can get good gear the whole way.
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Thanks, very nice. That put some new spots on my radar.
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Thanks for info. Facebook is lame as a public discussion forum -- why do they need my info so badly? Not that anybody cares what I think but here's my vote to have such a discussion somewhere like CascadeClimbers instead.
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Can somebody copy and paste or provide a different link? Facebook wants login.
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Very sad. RIP to a super nice guy and condolences to his family.
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This is really sad. My thoughts are also with Jens Holsten and Chad's friends and family.
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#FacebookSux
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Nevermind.
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Cool. I should go ski that one of these years. It's not that far from here and it's on my way to A$$pen (if Independence Pass is open).
It would be a slightly longer drive but there's better alpine climbing near Crestone on Kit Carson, Crestone Peak or Crestone Needle if you're looking for a more technical experience on more rugged 14ers (when RMNP is closed).
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Whichever one didn't piss you off most recently.
In my experience, no matter how much I like a pack for multi-day ski trips initially, eventually I will hate it. Is it big enough to hold everything you might want? Then it's too big to ski well. Is it small enough to ski well? Then it will be annoying packing or unpacking it. It will probably even explode somewhere when you overstuff it for the umpteenth time.
I usually like them best after one or two trips. So a pack that's been tested by only one or two trips. The Wild Things Ice Sac was probably my most enduring favorite for a few years there.
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I also like to tap by hand on a lathe or a five-axis milling machine. But I've never done that with my skis.
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Epic route with great variety!
That little stub in the crack on the 4th pitch is now far from confidence inspiring, at least for me. I didn't even consider putting a sling on it. It doesn't look nearly as good as in your photo and I shuddered as I stood on it. Whoever made the comments: these guys did not bolt it into submission! I found the bolts to be quite judicious and commendable. I wish the first two pitches and particularly the second pitch weren't so moist but such is life at Squamish.
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Looks like a fun trip!
Also, the guidebook might sandbag you, a couple gear lists for routes in IC were a size off the mark, unnerving when you only have 2 cams that fit for a 70 foot pitch.Is this a case of confusion between Friend sizes and Camalot sizes? I've certainly made that mistake.
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Great idea, Joseph: National Sport Climbing Day! Te he he.
I have in the past posted we ought to institute a 'National Cam-free Day'... -
I never would have anticipated such a sweet year of climbing.
*Needles: Atlantis and Romantic Warrior with Ross
*Black Canyon: Astrodog with Layton
*Moab: a post-Thanksgiving four-day feast: Jah Man, Fine Jade, Three Penguins & Washer Woman
*Sandias: tough call between Wizard of Air and Voodoo Child on Torreon, both so good
*Squamish: sampling the Calling and Tantalus Wall with Wehrly
Good times, many thanks to all who shared them.
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Oh yeah, I wondered about those ropes when I saw them.
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Go ahead and get an attitude about it, but it does in fact suck to deal with IE when designing web pages. Over the years they have often rendered standards-compliant markup into unseemly web pages, whereas the other browsers render standards compliant markup much better. It is a real nuisance when the rules to the game get changed. Sure, IE is a large share of the browser market; it's just too bad they don't adhere to the standards as well as others.
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I use #2 and #3 while free climbing on basalt and granite. If the placement is good then 6 kN seems like plenty of strength to me. The #3 has definitely caught falls.
I regularly carry #2 brass through #9 or 10 offset.
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There's no way anybody on this website has a PhD. PhD people don't even know about the internet.
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All of New Mexico is dry and sunny with perfect sending temps right now and for the foreseeable future!
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The two I did at Lumpy were Bat Crack and p1 of Loose Ends. Bat Crack wasn't a sandbag in terms of difficulty at all but it was fully R rated. Loose Ends had great pro but it was very sustained for a 5.9. More difficult than the Split Pillar IMO!
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You've refreshed my memory: he upgraded Milk Run and Liquid Gold to 11a, didn't he? Not sure about other examples. The pretty pictures still count for a lot in my book.
One of the hardest 5.9s I've climbed was at Lumpy Ridge.
Herman fatality?
in the *freshiezone*
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This is sad. I feel for his family.