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About Beaver_Joe

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    Research Assistant
  • Location
    Corvallis, OR
  1. Flagstone -- Hydrotube Retrobolt

    I have a comment about Flagstone and another about Backwards Evolution at Mind Planet, Callahans. At flagstone, when you first come around the corner to the North Slab, there is a route with super shiney hanger that goes straight up a completely unfeatured low angle(30 degrees) slab. I agree some enjoyment can be had on the other routes on this slab. In fact some of the others have upper sections(once you clear the "steepest" section in the middle of the slab) that are very similar, but marginally steeper. Why bother with this first route, when a similar experience can already be had on a route 20 feet away. I know someone who went up there hiking and walked to the 5th bolt in light hiking boots. I think that states the point better than any other works could. I really enjoyed hydrotube however. For anyone who is worried it may have been ruined, to me it was a definite mental "skills test." Now for Backwards Evolution. I was down there about a month ago and in 3 lead attempts between 2 people, the rope got jammed between the rock and the draw in the 4th to last bolt(at the bottom of the block you stand on right before you get to the anchors). Anyway, as I was trying to mantle onto the top of that block (hips just at mantle height) the rope jammed This is a strenuous place to hold yourself at and still try to get some slack to move up. Anyway I propose that bolt at the bottom of the block either be pulled or on the climb sw oregon website, a note could be made that you ignore that bolt as there is another just 2 moves further up, or a long runner should be used there. I thought it was a fluke when it happed to my partner(luckily he had already stood up after the mantle when it happened to him) but when it happened to me too, I thought "its not just us, that's a poorly placed bolt " Too bad, because I really liked that climb even if it wasn't really an 11b. When it happened to my partner he thought I was SHORTROPING him. I bet nobody thought about badly placed bolts being a source of animosity between leader and belayer. Oh, the humanity!
  2. Australian cars rock!

    We do get these. They're called Mustangs But seriously. They're actually cooler than mustangs. My cousin's got one and it's much more unassuming (besides the momo steering wheel) than a mustang. All ford midsize cars are some version of the Falcon in Australia. So they all look pretty similar but the one in question (XR8) does ckick considerably more ass! I agree that a diesel compact pick-up would be very useful and thrifty (fuelwise). By the way, I believe Holden is owned by GM, so its just another case of big business keeping us down Stupid public. If we knew that what we wanted (big fat underpowered trucks) wasn't so cool maybe we'd want something that was cool! Aussies
  3. Erden is on the road

    Ain't half good either... Must be half ugly!!
  4. Mt. Hood Meadows

    If you're going saturday, do it 4-10pm. Its $10 with a safeway clubcard and it may snow during the day, but tapering off in the evening. Even so, take old skis or rent. Haven't been, but that's what I would and may do on Sunday.
  5. Want to branch

    Thanks for the info everyone. I, for lack of equipment and experience, cannot climb trad. But thanks for the advice anyway. I've been eager to try it but I need to find someone that has plenty of experience and doesn't mind teaching a newbie. I want to be competent before I spend all my money on the gear. Said guide must also refrain from haranging me because I'm a "sissy sporto". Hey I want to learn, after all.
  6. Want to branch

    I have logged one season on the rock and am a low 10 sport leader (at smith). I am confident at my current leading level and want to push my limits on various rock. I was wondering if anyone has any information on City of Rocks and Red Rocks. These are short enough drives for me (can't take too much time of work ) and I was wondering what the best time of year for these places is and nature of rock and any other things that might be helpful. Thanks
  7. via ferrata???

    Back when I was about 12 I went on a family vacation in Europe. This was before I knew what rock climbing and safety equipment were. So we went on this "hike" one foggy day and encountered these rebar ladders. The moisture in the air made the rebar extra slippery too. Didn't think much of it, we just kept climbing. It was more fun than any other hike I'd ever been on and the danger factor never crossed my mind. Not even after we passed another family that was clipped into the steel cable. We got to the top and had no view at all. Hiked down in the fog (via a different route than the ascent) and encountered a lost GUIDED group . We decided to stay near them so there would only be one lost party on the mtn. Only now, after getting into rock climbing do I realize that we were facing some serious falls. I was 12, I wasn't looking down Later my mom said how gripped with fear she was watching my brother, father and me climb. On the other hand, another person we passed was a 70 year old lady who had been doing this hike for something like 30 years in a row. No harness, I think maybe even a skirt. granny!
  8. Greenpeace Pussies

    Don't care for football too much. Its amusing but does not govern my mood. The reference is to the mentally handicapped beaver fanatic who goes around campus with a wheelbarrow and has steadily put on weight since his emergence onto the beaver athletics scene.
  9. Greenpeace Pussies

    My first post and can you believe its on the spray board? Everybody's life is full of contradictions. And we can pick at each others' contradictions all day long without accomplishing anything. The only thing anyone can do about it is being informed and asking themselves if they feel warranted in making any given decision.