eric8

Early report- nothing but Barack votes at my table Tvash

Hood also has a history of accidents and media coverage...

Well, I'm in Wyoming at the moment so i can't exactly tell you where to go. But EVERYTIME i have been to the millennium wall in leavenworth there has been ice when the rest of leavenworth looked like shit, as it always does. But its really one 1 short pitch of grade 3 or 4 ice depending on conditions you can however usually run laps on it till your hearts content. According to this page http://www.wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx flow reversal has been climbed... and if its not in you can always play around on the rap wall. And according to this page pan dome, as already mentioned, has been climbed, http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21412&sid=8ab0263fdb70b62e441520322efd0920

I used to have two short sections of hockey sticks nailed into the rafters in my basement at my old place. I would warm up doing pullups on them but then just do sets of 30 sec hangs. My grip strenth always failed before I maxed out on pullups. I have always started each ice season stronger than the one before because I have been in better rock climbing shape. Will Gadd says in his book that if you can climb any 5.10 you can follow any pure ice route after a couple days out...so know I mostly just train for climbing the rock and my ice skills go up every year as a result.

Define worth the trip.

About three years ago I bootied an old pound in, twist out ice screw at banks lake with a fully activated screamer.

oh yeah sorry what were they? Like one arm lat pull, levers, etc

Sexual, where your climbing specific exercises, if you don't mind me asking?

I as simply answering Matt's question referring to the big name climbers. I never said crossfit is bad, I just think the formula should be climb more, crossfit less. And that was not the general feeling I was getting from this thread. I did the workout the work out of the day for about 4 months and the only improvement i noticed was in my hiking ability. Now i try to do it once a week but if I'm short on time that week it is the first thing i skip, in favor of climbing, climbing specific training and finally running. If my goals where different maybe i would do it more. As a side note I know more people who climb hard in all discplines, rock, ice and alpine who don't crossfit then do.

Oh, I guess Vince Anderson recommends crossfit on skywardmountaineering.com and Scott Semple has been known to do a crossfit work out or two. My point that if your just trying to get a generally level of fitness up you just need to start working out. Ivans method of running an hour a day will definetly do it, so will crossfit. Pick your poison, but don't forget climbing specific training.

First off the number of pullups you can do does not directly relate to climbing ability. Second 22 pullups is not something you need to do crossfit in order to obtain. I can actually do more pullups when i'm doing more ice specific work outs then when i'm doing crossfit. Steve House did thousands of hours of cardio to train for Nanga Parbat because as he says up there that is always the limiting factor. The only reason he is on the gymjones website is because he is Twights friend and believes in the gymjones philosophy. But you would be mistaken if you think that crossfit like workouts are the basis of his condition program. Colin also doesn't do crossfit he mostly just climbs a lot but he can speak for himself. Will Gadd is the only professional climber who I can think of that does crossfit when he is not doing mixed specific training. In general i think lot of folks are way into crossfit who don't really climb that hard...I'm not saying its not possible and it certainly is a good way to get in shape but most folks i know who climb hard don't bother with it.

I agree with Blake and FF, to sum it up quite being a tool

I'll post from Wyoming and bet that banks is not in

I spent 2.5 months in Chamonix last winter/spring and climbed with people from all over of various skill sets and here is what I noticed, these are generalizations. If your strong(M7 climber) your not going to use leashes, if your weak (wi4 climber) you are or should unless your on easier mixed route. If your somewhere in between then who knows what your going to do. Also, lots of euros climb leashes without lanyards in the pine but that just scares me. I'm slowly making the leash less transitions, and whenever I go leash less I use some sort of teether. Pretty much the only thing I use leashes for is vertical grade 5 water ice without a lot of features and soloing. I have used two tether systems, the one described by Dave, I use that 90% of the time. And then this one Sorry guess you can't see very well but you have the lanyards attached to your pack. I got this idea from Jim Nelson who let me borrow his tools with a chest harness lanyard set up once. Set up this way they get in your way less then if they are attached to your harness when you are fumbling around with gear on your harness. But the tethers seem to whip around more when you swing. so I would only use them on easier mixed routes that don't require a lot of swinging, something like new york gully.

I have taken the griprest on and off several times with no need to cut anything. My quarks are 2 years old.

you only need a number 5 camalot if you are not comfortable running it out through the easy wide section before the belay, if you can make it through the crux okay, you should be more than fine.

There is still a fixed bong right next to a textbook cam placement

I have, and your right i didn't stem it but there are lots of good edges for feet, so your not really putting weight on your jams. Anyway I know folks who can lead 5.10 cracks at vantage/ tieton and don't know how to hand jam. One of them can't top rope that 8 mile buttress handcrack.

i have said this before but for pure jamming technique in general granite is better to practice on then basalt because basalt generally has lots of edges for feet and you just end up stemming most cruxs anyway,

sisu? or something else on the utw

The crux is fixed. I remeber bring a number 6 friend and placing it, but also thinking it wasn't really necissary.

All day, i'll pm you my address, thanks

Can I come? Or more importantly can someone pick me up? I live by the 405/522 interchange

bump

Tuesday anyone? index or 32, I live in Bothell and don't have a car.