Buckaroo
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Posts posted by Buckaroo
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Training with heavy loads is a good thing if you are going for Rainier or Denali but you should def look at keeping your load as light as possible on climbs because lighter is quicker and thus safer. One of the primary considerations and methods of comparison when looking at gear is weight. For instance how much does your empty pack weigh? There's a big diff between a climbing pack and a generic hiking pack. Also a true climbing store will have a scale handy because you can't always trust the manufacture for an accurate weight or for it to even be listed.
Forget about down in the PNW, either for the puffy or sleeping bag. It gets wet and looses it's loft and becomes near useless. It is lighter so it is better in places where you know it won't get wet like Shasta.
Stick with the manufactures that make climbing gear, don't think Eddie Bauer does any serious climbing gear.
I have 3 different weights of puffy's and use them all in the PNW and I don't go above 10K much any more. The thickest is a Mammut that would work on Denali, but I like it for a sub 10K peak in the winter. You can end up using a lighter sleeping bag when you factor in wearing the puffy while sleeping. This is also a weight saving trick where one item has multiple uses.
And if you worried about overheating you usually don't climb wearing a puffy except maybe Denali or Rainier in winter. It's more for when you are stopped for some reason, like at a belay, or in camp or a forced bivy.
There's 2 grades of hardshells, amateur and guide, both do the same job essentially, the guide level is just more durable. It will last longer, but it's heavier and more expensive.
I got lucky when getting into climbing. There was a local community college that had a "climb Mt Rainier" class, it lasted about 6 weeks two days a week in the evenings. The teachers were volunteers and we had about 3 training trips and then a final climbing trip. It was really affordable, like $100, the school must have donated the space.
Partners are getting easier to find with the advent of the internet.
Shasta is a lot easier than Rainier due to the better weather but both are high enough the altitude will kick your butt. Especially if you live near sea level. This is not like the Colorado 14ers where you are living at 5000'. It's not so much the ultimate altitude as it is the total gain. It might be better to start with something like Hood or Baker so you can concentrate on the basics without the added problem of altitude.
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Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs in Stellar Condition
Date: 4/30/2015
Trip Report:
Triple Couloirs is still in 20 year gift conditions. Get it while it's still cold. Looks like temps are trending just like it was on this date. Weather.gov for Colchuck lake was high 40, low 24.
Climbed solo in 4.5 hrs. The entire route either alpine ice or mostly firm snow. Beautiful plastic ice. Boot steps in the snow, mainly in the upper couloir. Would grade the cruxes AI3.
Wanted anti-balling plates on the crampons coming down Aasgard, did not have. Also forgot sunscreen but luckily remembered sunglasses. Route gets a little afternoon sun but just briefly and in spots, full shade in the AM. Normal descent (Aasgard) gets sun from mid morning on. Recommend a very early start as sun and rising temps break things loose, and this route is one long drop chute to the bottom.
One of those routes where once you get in it you can't see very far ahead, lots of twists, turns, and steepness changes that block the view, so soloing you can't see if it will go. Like each couloir transition is hidden until you get to it. Plus you can't see how long the ice pitches crux is.
The hardest thing about soloing something like this (for me anyway) is working up the courage to commit while you're bivied at the base. Once you get going it's okay, it's just getting started that's tough.
Failed to get a call back person, thought the text went through while driving through Leavenworth but it didn't. Tried texting/calling from the summit, had 4 bars (Verizon) but failed multiple tries.
Gear
Petzl Dartwins
1- 1st gen Cobra
1- Nomic
1- HELMET
no rope, no pro
Better report with pics when I get the time.
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Thanks for the TR, and nice pics
How long were the cruxes and what would you rate them?
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Those of us in the private sector had our last cost of living raise--never. Typically, we get pay increases based on performance.
Maybe you should think about dumping that union of yours. Sounds like they're standing in the way of good pay for good teachers.
Fairweather moronagus
If you don't get cost of living you're being ripped off, why don't you just blame that on the Unions. After all it has nothing to do with corporate greed.
Here's how it was before Unions, let's let the Repugnicun*s take us back by doing away with the Unions.
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It's been a fact for decades that teachers are not paid exhorbitant salaries. And let's not forget they work 9 months of the year, not 12.
People who go into teaching know what they are going to get in terms of pay and do it anyways. The endless whining about this gets old. If you want to go for money, pick a different career.
Why is it that teachers aren't paid more? Do we not value them like other developed nations?
And hour wise they work more than 9 months. It's between 50 and 60 hrs week. I have a couple teacher friends. Coming back from Smith on a Sunday with one of them, he asked me to drive. Then he graded papers for 2 hours.
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Yes, demanding tax increases from 30,40,50 thousand dollar a year workers so 60,70,80 thousand dollar a year teachers can get a bigger pay raise makes a lot of sense.
Fairweather, are you willfully this stupid or is it involuntary?
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Reagan signed a bill into law that was put on his desk by Congress. Tu comprendes la diferencia, amigo?
Bi partisan congress passed the bill. Reagan supported it.
"I believe in the idea of amnesty for those who have put down roots and lived here, even though sometime back they may have entered illegally," Ronald Reagan
The bill as initially proposed had provisions to go after employers that hired illegals. But that language was gutted by the lobbying efforts of institutions like the conservative US Chamber of Commerce.
The Repugs will fix the immigrant problem just like they will fix the abortion issue, IOW NEVER. Both are token issues that low IQ voters go for. If fixed then these reasons to vote for Repugs would go away.
Actually the Repugs support illegals for 3 reasons. 1 cheap labor, 2 implementation of the NAU, 3 support of the divide and conquer strategy.
The illegals are a good scapegoat for the propagandized low IQ to blame when the 1% rapes and pillages the economy.
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Reagan started the amnesty train when he signed into law the 1986 Immigration Reform and Control Act, which effectively pardoned 3.2 million illegals.
The PTB's want illegal immigration and the pols just do what their paid to do. The PTB's want a cheap labor force, they've even dumped crop prices to put Mexican farmers out of business. The root cause is the job's are available, it would be much easier to control immigration by regulating employers but they won't do that.
Tell me Fairweather do you wave misspelled signs at the WWF matches that you attend?
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Wow, guess we don't need Congress anymore. Careful what you wish for.
It's the WWF, they are all owned by the same corporations
Executive orders by President
Ronald Reagan 381
George H.W. Bush 166
Bill Clinton 364
George W. Bush 291
Barack Obama 194
(as of 2014-11-21)
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OMG, I had no idea about any of this! Where did you learn all of this??? Ivan? TTK? Off? You guys really want to claim this guy?
The truth needs no support. It's all a matter of historical record. Unless all you read is the re-written history.
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OMG, I had no idea about any of this! Where did you learn all of this???
Def not from Orwell's televisione.
and once again all you got is ad-hom. Your "argument" is as ephemeral as the bush boy's brains.
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Kennedy would have never escalated it to the level it ended up at. Coincidentally, he was the last decent Democrat this country had.
Too bad Bush Sr's CIA killed him then ehh?
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For your recollection, Ivan, here are the Congressional vote totals for the Civil Rights Act of 1964. Looks like Democrats had a bigger problem with it than did Republicans:
Totals are in "Yea–Nay" format:
The original House version:
Democratic Party: 152–96 (61–39%)
Republican Party: 138–34 (80–20%)
Cloture in the Senate:
Democratic Party: 44–23 (66–34%)
Republican Party: 27–6 (82–18%)
The Senate version:
Democratic Party: 46–21 (69–31%)
Republican Party: 27–6 (82–18%)
The Senate version, voted on by the House:
Democratic Party: 153–91 (63–37%)
Republican Party: 136–35 (80–20%)
This is one of the sh*tiest arguments that circulates the internet. Before civil rights the Dems were the party of the conservatives and racist south and the Repugs were the party of the liberals. After civil rights the southern racist dems became repugs and the liberals all became Dem like they are today. In effect the parties flipped ideologies with the advent of civil rights.
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Why are you so absorbed with the "fight" between the dems and repugs? You know they are all owned by the 1% and like the WWF the fight is fixed.
Hitler was a poor slob from the beer hall, he had no cash. His rise to power was funded by the 1%. They funded and profited from both sides of the fight. Brown Brothers Harriman was the largest US bank to fund him, with Prescott Bush on their board, Bush Jr's grandfather. The British royals also had a hand, their lineage is actually German, they changed their name to Windsor before (during?) the 1st WW.
WW2 was actually engineered to put Russia down. They had killed their Tzars and the real rulers (the West's royals) had freaked out about this thinking they were next. Russia actually did about 80% of the fighting against Germany, the US just came in at the end.
Prescott Bush supported Hitler up until 1 year after the war started. He was convicted under the trading with the enemy act and his funds confiscated. The European and US industrialists/bankers/royals that funded Hitler were compensated with profits from the slave labor camps, they actually profited from their investments.
The Germans attacked Poland using Ford trucks. They counted death camp bodies using IBM punch card computers. And the Zyclon B extermination gas was produced by IG Farben with financial ties to Rockefeller and Standard oil in a company called Standard I.G. Farben.
The Nuremberg trials were fixed. They only got the top leaders, many of the lower ranks went free or had reduced sentences. None of the West's financiers were even indicted. Many of the individuals in German intelligence went right into the CIA as it was founded by those from the US that supported Hitler.
After the war ended Prescott Bush got his confiscated funds back. The Bush family fortune is based upon these funds, much of which were obtained from the profits of the slave labor camps.
The CIA is just the police arm of the 1%. They crush democracies (labeling them communist or socialist) and install dictatorships beholden to the multinational corps. They are the largest volume illegal drug runners in the world. The current operation in Afghanistan represents 80% of the worlds heroin. The Taliban eradicated 90% of a full year's crop of opium. After we invaded the entire crop was re-established.
They killed the Kennedy's and engineered and perpetrated OK city and 911. OK city being a test run of the methods used at 911.
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Lynn Hill did have a slight advantage on the Nose, having small fingers to send the great roof, it being size dependent.
Destivelle soloed the N Face of Eiger in winter and the Bonatti on the N face of the Matterhorn.
Let's not forget Edurne Pasaban, the first woman to climb all 14 8000M peaks, or Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to climb them all without supplemental oxygen.
Always thought that single pitch at the crags was just training for bigger things.
Let's see the first woman to free solo the NEB of Slesse, or climb it in winter.
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Gotta give it to you Buck, the conspiracy angle is always entertaining for the first ten or twenty seconds. Unfortunately, I find it getting more and more difficult to engage 9/11 nutjob-truther types like you. In any event, I'm sure the populist messages already frothing up from the political left pre-2016 will find fertile soil in that soft noggin of yours. Better ignore Rachael for now, and stick to those ADD-type tasks that I'm sure you're really good at.
So you quote my post and ignore every point in it, while bringing up something I said nothing about in said post, and then proceed with a 100% ad-hominem attack.
Where's your "argument" Fairweather?
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they don't take prescription drugs in other western nations?
i imagine we have a good many more traffic deaths than the typical euro country too - fewer murders at the soccer stadiums though
I think we have more over prescription and abuse. Plus the "health care" industry doesn't cure, it just treats symptoms, the drug thing is part of that.
We might have more traffic deaths, there are practically no restrictions on getting a license, unlike say Germany for instance.
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i like the russian model: spend nothing, get nothing
in fairness, our poor life expectancy might have more to do w/ us shooting each other in great numbers than shitty docs...
Part of it can be attributed to poor diet and life style, but gun shootings are not that significant. Far more people die from prescription drugs than either guns or illegal drugs.
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Your right, the one brief time the Dems had a super majority. So since it was approved by the insurance companies and it was very similar to the plans from Dole, McCain, Romney then the repugs opposed it because of their pledge to oppose anything and everything Obama did. Not because they disagreed with what the predatory corporations wanted. After all mandating someone to purchase a product from a private company is certainly the antithesis of democracy. What are you saying, that the insurance companies are led by liberal CEO's?
So you follow politics and the corrupt politicians, who are all corrupt, but you somehow believe that the 1/2 of them with the R after their name are not corrupt. If you like we can compare crimes by presidential administration between the D's and R's. Oh and I don't watch Maddow (I don't even own a TV), she's just a liberal gatekeeper, there's nothing on the predatory corporate TV that is not completely controlled. Just ask yourself why Donahue and Olberman were axed from the supposed liberal channel when they had the highest ratings.
Are you still believing that official government conspiracy theory regarding 911? The one where all sorts of impossible stuff happened? Like most of Newton's laws of physics were turned on their head? Like where most of the major protocols for Norad and fire, crime, and airplane crash investigation were completely ignored? The one where the corporate media contradicted themselves on multiple occasions and then dutifully covered up after the fact?
So what do you know about engineering and physics? Are you aware that several steel skyscrapers have burned in what is typically called a "raging inferno" fashion. Like where either the entire building or complete floors are fully engulfed with flames. And yet none of these steel building raging infernos have ever collapsed? So what about WTC building 7? It burned partially on just a few floors, never having even one floor fully engulfed in flame . And yet if fell within it's own footprint exactly like a controlled demolition? How do you explain that?
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Hey Fairweather, we spend twice as much as all other developed nations yet our life expectancy is less than most of them. And all our people don't even have coverage.
What are the Republicans or the corporate Dems going to do about this? NOTHING, because they like it when they can rape and pillage.
The high costs are because of big pharma, big cancer, big hospitals, big insurance, all taking up to 30% right off the top. That's the way the sold out Repugs and Dems want it. It has nothing to do with liberals, there's no liberals at the head of predatory corporations.
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Fairweather, wake up from you Faux News induced dream,
Obamacare is a Republican plan. It was first presented by Dole, then by McCain. It was implemented by Romney in Mass. It was written by the insurance companies. The Repugs allowed it to pass, there were no lies. If there was it was just propaganda cover for suckers like your stupid self.
If the Repugs truly didn't want it they could have fillibustered, they did that to everything else from that entire term.
You blame everything on liberals when they have very little to do with the real problems we are facing. There is a war going on between the 1% and the 99%. Their media tries to distract with a phony war between liberals and conservatives, blacks and whites, citizens and immigrants. It's all phony propaganda for stupid suckers like you. Don't fall for it.
Both parties are near equally corrupt. The Repugs about 99% and the Dems about 95%. So shut up with your stupid propaganda bullsh*t acting like it's only the Dems.
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I think you want the O.R. Arete. A lightweight gortex with a gauntlet and a drawstring.
I hope they still make them because they really stay dry.
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Did a bicycle approach recon on Garfield
the Middle Fork Rd (NF-5600) is closed for construction through 2016 but they allow bicycles. They are fixing washouts and laying down black top all the way to the Taylor river bridge.
It will be open to vehicles this summer but only on weekends, closed to vehicles during the week.
NF-5620 that takes off from the Taylor river bridge and goes below Garfield is getting washed out in multiple spots. Subaru okay but no Prius.
It took me 2.5 hrs to go 12 miles on the bike (I'm slow). The road construction was very muddy and they are digging a 10 ft deep pit for a section of roadway.
Got to about 2800 ft on the normal route on Garfield main (the top of the Becky "dirty gulley"). The snow started there but it was mushy and melting fast. The climbers trail to the right of the approach valley is getting very non distinct. This climb is sandbagged, rated 4+ there was some loose low 5 just in the dirty gulley approach.
Garfield West, I.B. Summit, Leaning Spire, Garfield Main (in clouds)
Garfield West and I.B. Summit, you can see the I.B. route here, the ramps, the slab area and the headwall.
Garfield West and I.B. Summit from the bivy at the start of regular Garfield route.
Leaning Spire, Garfield Main, Courte Echelle (which means...a mountaineering maneuver in which a climber clambers on the body or head of another in order to reach a hold)
curious bivy visitor
Who knew that a slug would like a nice campfire to keep warm? He was getting closer and further depending on how hot the fire was. He stayed the whole time (about 3 hours) until I fell asleep. We talked for a while but I had to speak v e r y s l o w l y, because hey, he is a slug. We talked of various things, politics and climbing, but he got a little upset when I blamed him for blocking the fast lane on I-90.
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If they are properly graded it would probably be somewhere in between onsight and redpoint. There's probably more difference in ratings by area than in how it's climbed.
Another thing that is common nowadays is the harder bolted routes having fixed draws. So how does it affect the rating if it's a pinkpoint?
Also many routes have a consensus grade, not just what the route setter thinks but what his friends and the early senders think.
Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder
in Spray
Posted
after all we should be mad at who faux news tells us to be mad at. The cost of bike lanes per year from the average taxpayer must be in the pennies because it's not even on this chart.