Buckaroo

Actually if you think about it in regards to the Kiddie Cliff accident this is probably exactly how the knot was loaded. They tied a (relatively) short section of rope around a tree with a bowline, and clipped into the resulting loop. It would have had two end tails just like the test also. You also have to wonder how tight the knot was set and how long the tails were.

Know how to dig a snow cave. Multiple people have died on the Muir snowfield in spring storms just because they didn't know how to dig a snow cave. Maybe you can put up your tent in a 50 mph wind, but it's better to be able to dig a snow cave if necessary. Also have some reliable means of navigation, it's very easy to get lost in a white out because there are large areas with no landmarks. The mountain makes it's own weather and it can come in fast. The forecast can be inaccurate. You get lost and have no shelter, a recipe for disaster. The combined colder temps of altitude, wind chill, and a storm. The last one I remember was two women and a man. They dug a pit, (sort of like a grave) and the two women got in the bottom and the guy got on top to cover them. He died of exposure.

Too many times looking over at Baring when cragging at the LTW. Finally climbed it, just the walk up cuz of the recent knee surgery, but hey it's the descent for the Becky 5.10, so eventually. Prius was used as a logging vehicle at 12:30am, dragging with the tow rope, cutting limbs with Swiss army saw blade. Barclay Lake N face from Barclay Lake N face from Barclay Lake From Heybrook lookout From Heybrook lookout From Heybrook lookout From Heybrook lookout Bibler tent on a rainy recon. Rained all night. Looking down approach ridge.

The Ushba TI weighs 12.5 ounces, there's a couple others at or below that but they don't have good spikes. The BD Raven Pro is at 14 oz http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Ice-Axe-Reviews?n=0&sort_field=#compare I've had an older Grivel Air-Tech for years, 13.8 oz. The spike isn't sharp and you have to really swing hard to stick hard water ice. But it's perfect for light occasional use.

Access report, forest service road #2060 from near Darrington. The road is in about the same condition it's been for the last 5 years or so. You can make it as far as described in Selected Climbs, 8 miles from the pavement, but only if you have something with ground clearance like a Subaru. If you have something like a Prius you are going only 7 miles. You can take a bicycle and ride that last mile. This is for Green Giant Buttress. For 3 O'Clock Rock the road is fine for all vehicles.

Backcountry.com has a 20 percent off sale right now. REI.com has a 20 percent off sale also but the TC pros are on back order there.

Find something close and hard for you, then do a ton of laps on it. Something you can drive to after work in the summer. Something you can walk up and put a TR and climb as a rope solo.

I just had my knee done in the middle of Dec. The recovery is on you. Doctors and physical therapy can only guide you, you have to take the initiative of following through with the recommended program and it's not that easy. You have to apply yourself. I took 9 weeks off from work and it's a near full time job if you are serious about recovery. Also don't expect 100 percent pain free. My knee still hurts some times, although not near as bad as before surgery. A friend of mine had his hip resurfaced over 3 years ago and he says there's some soreness after a day of climbing/hiking. I'm just glad to be climbing again. The knee got so bad I didn't climb for the last year before the operation. If I had to do it again I would go for it sooner. That year of inactivity meant the muscles got weaker and that's not good for knee stability. Also I would have it done in spring or summer. The cold of winter sort of hinders recovery. Surgery is the last option but when the cartilage is gone and it's bone on bone it's only going to get worse. At that point surgery is the only option. One other thing, when you have a compromised joint and it starts hurting you will favor it and start limping. That leg will get smaller and atrophied. Plus you become conditioned to favor it so when it's repaired you have to undo that conditioning or it won't get back to full strength. Here's some of my recovery itinerary. Physical Therapy (50 min sessions) twice a week for 9 weeks, after that once a week for another 3 weeks. Three times a week would have been better but this was the max allowed by insurance. 3 weeks, hike Rattlesnake Ledge with crutches 4 mi, 1200' gain (this was too far, should have gone shorter) 4 weeks, exercise at home, walks in neighborhood 5 weeks, Barclay lake, 4 mi, minimum gain, with ski poles. This was too far also. 6 weeks, Heybrook Lookout 2.5 mi, 800'. This was perfect distance. Princely and GNS at Index, about 4 pitches 7 weeks, 5 pitches at Index, Heybrook Lookout, Climbing Gym, 8 weeks, Recon Baring, 2000' gain, Climbing Gym 9 weeks, Smith 8 pitches in 2 days to 5.10, Heybrook Lookout, Climbing Gym 10 weeks, Baring summit (normal), 3800' gain. Normally done in 1 day. Climbed to summit on 1st day and bivied below summit. Back to car on 2nd day by noon.

Please give us a general idea of what level you've climbed at and maybe what climbs you've done. Also what level are you looking to climb at and what specific climbs do you want to do?

A friend of mine who has way more experience than me seemed to think the weak link was probably the bowline knot. Here's to hoping your recovery only improves.

The old coil bolt looks like a lag bolt, a grade 5 zinc plated lag bolt. If it had a coil originally it's obviously not working now. The new replacement also looks like a zinc plated mild steel bolt. The chains are zinc and the color matches. Give it 10 years and you won't trust it because of rust.

Fairweather you and the RepubliCUN*S are a sh*tstain on the face of democracy. And you are a liar and an idiot if you think the RepubliCUN*S aren't trying to suppress the vote. We have YouTube now so when some RepubliCUN* turd tells the truth about the scamming sh*t that they are perpetrating it's recorded for posterity. [video:youtube]

It's the Repugnicun*s that have killed democracy by manipulating the vote. When the bush boy came into office (after his appointment to the presidency by the supreme court clowns) he commanded the justice dept to prosecute voter fraud, ie voters who vote illegally. They found about 17 people nation wide. It just does not happen because who wants to risk a felony for just one vote? No it's not voter fraud that's the problem it's voting fraud, ie manipulation of the vote counting. The RepugniCUN*S have it down to a fine art. In many places they actually own the private companies that make the vote counting machines and they have "proprietary" software that can not be examined. Totally against the constitution which mandates congress to count the vote. There are many other ways they steal the vote including having less vote locations and less machines in known Dem districts. The biggest thing they have done lately is gerrymandering, it's gotten so bad that in the last midterm elections there were about 2 million more Dem voters, yet the RepubliCUN*S gained in the house and senate. Of course the Dems probably are trying to fight back with scams of their own but the Repugs are doing far worse at this point. The main driver of this fraud is the fact the RepubliCUN*S are dying off. Fat old white man-pigs such as yourself are lesser in numbers so the RepubliCUN*S are having to cheat their as*es off to stay ahead.

I take Ginkgo Biloba, a herbal blood thinner. Now my hands hardly ever go numb, but if they do I just swing my arms to force the blood back. Have also found that some things will make it worse, like caffeine or too much salt. There was some recent scandal involving house brands at the major grocery chains where the herbal vitamins like Ginkgo and Echinacea etc were found to not contain the stated ingredients. So if you do go this route stick with major labels.

Mother nature ravaged Helens, blew 1/4 off her top and killed everything living on one side. What harm is a little skiing going to do?

That is one edge that you should not run the rope over when lowering. I think people do this because it gives the most friction and that is needed because the device is hard to control because the handle is too short. In order to make it lighter they made it smaller hence the shorter handle. That is the sharpest edge and it's also harder on the rope. You can actually see little bits of rope in your first picture. (Nice documentary photos BTW, good use of Macro) I also think they changed the cam design because the device has less graduation in friction. It's either on or off compared to the original which gave more variance in the amount of friction, so what ends up happening is the edges get used more to adjust the friction. Try running the rope over the curved edge, the one that's color anodized, and then rap it underneath if you need more friction. You can also try running over the top edge. (top in your pics) The wear you do have is probably going to wear slower from now on because the contact area is now larger. But it could also wear faster since it may have a hard anodized coating on the surface which has now been worn through. If there really were some wizards at the Petzl engineering dept they would do a 3rd generation which brought back the better performance of the original yet kept the light weight of the 2nd gen. Anyone listening at Petzl?

Nice artistic video. Nice shots, editing, nice drone footage, but there's only about 5 moves of the actual climb and they are not all together. So it's sort of a trailer for a video of this hard woman sending a 5.14. I guess it's just her story of how she went about it and not the actual climb itself, which is what the thread title led to believe.

I think using Nomics on anything less than WI4 is overkill. Something with a straighter shaft and no pinky rest is also better for bashing pins and plunging.

Ass, Gas, or Grass, nobody rides for free

Nice pics. During the Earth's history it has been a molten ball of rock and it has been a ball of ice completely covered with glaciers 1000's of feet thick. Man might be having problems but the Earth isn't going to care.

No. Postcards from the Ledge, Greg Child. p17. Google will show you the page. First published or first verbalized? Probably first verbalized is unknown. Working at a car dealership we used to say. Fu*king fu*king fu*king fu*k.

Pics or it didn't happen

It sounds like Headlee Pass requires climbing, why is she a hiker and not an inexperienced climber? I'll admit I didn't click the link. It's clearly the dogs fault, if they hadn't been irresponsible by climbing up and then not having brought their crampons to climb down we wouldn't be having this discussion.

Yup. I think the biggest negative factor was the soft deep snow. That stuff can really suck your energy in a hurry. For me the route would have been out of condition. Some styrofoam neve and we wouldn't be discussing this.

I think 2008 was just an intentional scam from the top down. They intentionally gave out loans to unqualified people with ARM's. They knew these loans would go bad when rates went up. They bundled these bad loans and fraudulently graded them AAA. Somewhere in the process they multiplied things with derivatives. Then they sold the bad bundles to unwitting investors, at the same time betting against them, betting that they would go bad. Then they raised rates and watched their plan go through. Then when all the sh*t hit the fan they had the unmitigated gall to ask for a taxfunded "bailout" for the banks they were involved with that had taken a hit. The bailout bill failed the first time it went through congress. Partly due to the fact the American public contacted their representatives in record numbers. It actually broke the record for citizen contact with representatives. 95% of them asking congress not to bailout the banks. The bankers came back threatening the reps with martial law if they didn't give them the bill and the bunch of pu**ies caved. All this was allowed by de-regulation. Instead of breaking laws they just got rid of them. But even that was not enough and they did break laws and commit crimes. While the Raygoon admin convicted about 1000 bankers in the S&L scandal of the '80s the Obama "justice" department has convicted zero bankers in this scandal. Although recently they have levied some fines, which are of course pennies on the dollar, a mere fee for criminal activity. -I suppose that's one way to look at it, but your post bring the phrase "never assume a conspiracy when simple incompetence will do." That - and "Devil Take the Hindmost..."is always the rule when it comes to debt-fueled speculative mania. Read up on the tears and recriminations that followed after the South Sea and Mississippi bubbles if you get the chance. -It seems like you've got enough interest in the topic to devour all of the book length tomes on the topic. I'm not sure they'd change your mind, but you'd probably find them interesting all the same. Ditto for "Extraordinary Popular Delusions and the Madness of Crowds" or any other book on the history of speculative manias. -Some - I'd say most - of the guys who made a killing on the bust had more luck than smarts on their side. "The market can stay irrational longer than you can stay solvent" is normally the rule of the day when it comes to taking short positions. Lots of people with lots of money looked at the fundamentals in the US RE market, shorted the bejesus out of banks, mortgage originators, etc - and got eaten alive then the speculative mania kept the party going and the price of the stocks they'd shorted kept going up. The lunacy going on in the Canadian property market as had people have been shorting Canadian banks for years with zero payoff. I'm sure that there will be a handful of people that look like geniuses when that cycle corrects, too - and no one will think about all of the people who made bets against that market with no payoff, either. It was intentional fraud from front to back. The FBI warned about it as early as 2004. The 2008 scandal is about 70 to 100 times worse than the '80s one and the regulators have been reduced to 1/5 the previous number. And the Obama admin has done far less about it than Reagan did in the 80's. William Black puts it best, a regulator from the S&L scandal. [video:youtube]