Buckaroo

quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: This past week we made it up , Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them. cgentzel@aai.cc how was the weather in the bugs?, did you do south howser in one day or two?

quote: Originally posted by erik: i quit climbing. i have one more route to do, then i am out for good....... and what route would that be?? and why did you quit?

the first pitch(5.8) of "thin red line" on liberty bell. Run out/gear thin, hard route finding, one place with a definite 5.9 move. the "hollow flake" on the salathe of el cap. Was a good grade for it's time when chimney's were routinely climbed, but now try 50ft of runout with no gear in an off-width chimney. You can protect with a big bro but have you ever tried walking one? The only advice is to find something to practice on beforehand. Bet this single pitch has turned more people back than any other. yes maybe the last pitch of lovin arms, I wasn't sure which way it went, seemed like a line to the right was it but didn't lead to the anchors. godzilla is properly rated, anyone who thinks otherwise doesn't know cracks or has been climbing too much at the gimme "exit" crags [ 08-19-2002, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: Buckaroo ]

""If you were doing the full north ridge of stuart, which approach would you use? (stuart lake trail or Ingalls Lake trail) and Why?"" stuart lake trail for winter routes 'cuz the sherpa is the easiest descent in winter Ingalls for summer 'cuz sherpa is broken in summer ""We have the ability to leave a vehicle at Ingalls Lake trail head to decend via cascadian couloir and avoid a north side decent if approaching via stuart lake."" don't see much advantage to approaching from the north in summer, and since cascadian is the easiest descent why not approach from same direction? another way to descend would be the west ridge, if you could stand the exposure after getting off the north. You would avoid the big altitude losses and gains of the cascadian that way. "" You will not need an ice axe or crampons and can do the appoach to the No. Ridge in approach shoes."" agree totally ""BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. "" the majority of snow/ice/glacier is on the approach. If your worried about it just find a stick and carve it to a sharp point, then you can just toss it when you get onto the rock. ""This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions?"" to achieve full flavor make it two days, do the complete ridge and bivy at the notch. But go ultra light with a half bag etc. the guide almighty combo rock shoe-approach shoe are perfect for this climb. Fit them as you would a hiker and stuff a piece of ensolite blue foam in the heel to tighten them up for the gendarme pitch.

did the complete ridge in mid july last year, at that time the bypass was passable with just a little wet rock. for the cascadian, go past the false summit. A ridge goes straight down (south) from the false summit, go just past it and then head down the major couloir that is the cascadian. You have to drop down just a bit to pass the false summit. There was a lot of soft snow in the top of the couloir in july last year. watch out for snaffle hounds at the bivies [ 08-16-2002, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: Buckaroo ]

quote: Originally posted by mattp: On Cavelle's E. Ridge, routefinding is no problem at all. Follow the ridge (really, it is just that simple). actually it's OK going up but if you descend the route it's not obvious as there are spur ridges on either side that can take you out onto steep faces. 3 people have died here also http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=622 ""The downclimb off the back includes some somwhat scary traverssing on a loose rockslope above the big void but it (the scary part) is short and I'm afraid you will not find very many Canadian Rockies peaks that don't have at least some of that kind of thing."" and one death on the descent http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=172