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Everything posted by Buckaroo

  1. Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs in Stellar Condition Date: 4/30/2015 Trip Report: Triple Couloirs is still in 20 year gift conditions. Get it while it's still cold. Looks like temps are trending just like it was on this date. Weather.gov for Colchuck lake was high 40, low 24. Climbed solo in 4.5 hrs. The entire route either alpine ice or mostly firm snow. Beautiful plastic ice. Boot steps in the snow, mainly in the upper couloir. Would grade the cruxes AI3. Wanted anti-balling plates on the crampons coming down Aasgard, did not have. Also forgot sunscreen but luckily remembered sunglasses. Route gets a little afternoon sun but just briefly and in spots, full shade in the AM. Normal descent (Aasgard) gets sun from mid morning on. Recommend a very early start as sun and rising temps break things loose, and this route is one long drop chute to the bottom. One of those routes where once you get in it you can't see very far ahead, lots of twists, turns, and steepness changes that block the view, so soloing you can't see if it will go. Like each couloir transition is hidden until you get to it. Plus you can't see how long the ice pitches crux is. The hardest thing about soloing something like this (for me anyway) is working up the courage to commit while you're bivied at the base. Once you get going it's okay, it's just getting started that's tough. Failed to get a call back person, thought the text went through while driving through Leavenworth but it didn't. Tried texting/calling from the summit, had 4 bars (Verizon) but failed multiple tries. Gear Petzl Dartwins 1- 1st gen Cobra 1- Nomic 1- HELMET no rope, no pro Better report with pics when I get the time.
  2. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Why don't you post the Faux News break down on taxes then. Commondreams is legit, and the white house, well we know you deal with that based on the R or D. The truth is corporations pay less and less taxes, many of them don't pay any taxes. The amounts are staggering, making your complaint about bicycles entirely pathetic. Uh, the moon landings being a hoax was perpetrated by Faux News in case you don't remember. A conservative right wing organization. Hey, that's your side you big dummy. You have no reply on 911 based on any engineering or physics standpoint, all you got is ad-hom as usual. Have you ever done any welding? Know what it takes to melt steel? Know what melted steel and melted aluminum looks like? Any knowledge about how modern skyscrapers are constructed?
  3. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    after all we should be mad at who faux news tells us to be mad at. The cost of bike lanes per year from the average taxpayer must be in the pennies because it's not even on this chart.
  4. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Training with heavy loads is a good thing if you are going for Rainier or Denali but you should def look at keeping your load as light as possible on climbs because lighter is quicker and thus safer. One of the primary considerations and methods of comparison when looking at gear is weight. For instance how much does your empty pack weigh? There's a big diff between a climbing pack and a generic hiking pack. Also a true climbing store will have a scale handy because you can't always trust the manufacture for an accurate weight or for it to even be listed. Forget about down in the PNW, either for the puffy or sleeping bag. It gets wet and looses it's loft and becomes near useless. It is lighter so it is better in places where you know it won't get wet like Shasta. Stick with the manufactures that make climbing gear, don't think Eddie Bauer does any serious climbing gear. I have 3 different weights of puffy's and use them all in the PNW and I don't go above 10K much any more. The thickest is a Mammut that would work on Denali, but I like it for a sub 10K peak in the winter. You can end up using a lighter sleeping bag when you factor in wearing the puffy while sleeping. This is also a weight saving trick where one item has multiple uses. And if you worried about overheating you usually don't climb wearing a puffy except maybe Denali or Rainier in winter. It's more for when you are stopped for some reason, like at a belay, or in camp or a forced bivy. There's 2 grades of hardshells, amateur and guide, both do the same job essentially, the guide level is just more durable. It will last longer, but it's heavier and more expensive. I got lucky when getting into climbing. There was a local community college that had a "climb Mt Rainier" class, it lasted about 6 weeks two days a week in the evenings. The teachers were volunteers and we had about 3 training trips and then a final climbing trip. It was really affordable, like $100, the school must have donated the space. Partners are getting easier to find with the advent of the internet. Shasta is a lot easier than Rainier due to the better weather but both are high enough the altitude will kick your butt. Especially if you live near sea level. This is not like the Colorado 14ers where you are living at 5000'. It's not so much the ultimate altitude as it is the total gain. It might be better to start with something like Hood or Baker so you can concentrate on the basics without the added problem of altitude.
  5. [TR] Yet another Dragontail TC Report...

    Thanks for the TR, and nice pics How long were the cruxes and what would you rate them?
  6. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Fairweather moronagus If you don't get cost of living you're being ripped off, why don't you just blame that on the Unions. After all it has nothing to do with corporate greed. Here's how it was before Unions, let's let the Repugnicun*s take us back by doing away with the Unions.
  7. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Why is it that teachers aren't paid more? Do we not value them like other developed nations? And hour wise they work more than 9 months. It's between 50 and 60 hrs week. I have a couple teacher friends. Coming back from Smith on a Sunday with one of them, he asked me to drive. Then he graded papers for 2 hours.
  8. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Fairweather, are you willfully this stupid or is it involuntary?
  9. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Bi partisan congress passed the bill. Reagan supported it. "I believe in the idea of amnesty for those who have put down roots and lived here, even though sometime back they may have entered illegally," Ronald Reagan The bill as initially proposed had provisions to go after employers that hired illegals. But that language was gutted by the lobbying efforts of institutions like the conservative US Chamber of Commerce. The Repugs will fix the immigrant problem just like they will fix the abortion issue, IOW NEVER. Both are token issues that low IQ voters go for. If fixed then these reasons to vote for Repugs would go away. Actually the Repugs support illegals for 3 reasons. 1 cheap labor, 2 implementation of the NAU, 3 support of the divide and conquer strategy. The illegals are a good scapegoat for the propagandized low IQ to blame when the 1% rapes and pillages the economy.
  10. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Reagan started the amnesty train when he signed into law the 1986 Immigration Reform and Control Act, which effectively pardoned 3.2 million illegals. The PTB's want illegal immigration and the pols just do what their paid to do. The PTB's want a cheap labor force, they've even dumped crop prices to put Mexican farmers out of business. The root cause is the job's are available, it would be much easier to control immigration by regulating employers but they won't do that. Tell me Fairweather do you wave misspelled signs at the WWF matches that you attend?
  11. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Wow, guess we don't need Congress anymore. Careful what you wish for. It's the WWF, they are all owned by the same corporations Executive orders by President Ronald Reagan 381 George H.W. Bush 166 Bill Clinton 364 George W. Bush 291 Barack Obama 194 (as of 2014-11-21)
  12. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    The truth needs no support. It's all a matter of historical record. Unless all you read is the re-written history.
  13. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Def not from Orwell's televisione. and once again all you got is ad-hom. Your "argument" is as ephemeral as the bush boy's brains.
  14. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Too bad Bush Sr's CIA killed him then ehh?
  15. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    This is one of the sh*tiest arguments that circulates the internet. Before civil rights the Dems were the party of the conservatives and racist south and the Repugs were the party of the liberals. After civil rights the southern racist dems became repugs and the liberals all became Dem like they are today. In effect the parties flipped ideologies with the advent of civil rights.
  16. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Why are you so absorbed with the "fight" between the dems and repugs? You know they are all owned by the 1% and like the WWF the fight is fixed. Hitler was a poor slob from the beer hall, he had no cash. His rise to power was funded by the 1%. They funded and profited from both sides of the fight. Brown Brothers Harriman was the largest US bank to fund him, with Prescott Bush on their board, Bush Jr's grandfather. The British royals also had a hand, their lineage is actually German, they changed their name to Windsor before (during?) the 1st WW. WW2 was actually engineered to put Russia down. They had killed their Tzars and the real rulers (the West's royals) had freaked out about this thinking they were next. Russia actually did about 80% of the fighting against Germany, the US just came in at the end. Prescott Bush supported Hitler up until 1 year after the war started. He was convicted under the trading with the enemy act and his funds confiscated. The European and US industrialists/bankers/royals that funded Hitler were compensated with profits from the slave labor camps, they actually profited from their investments. The Germans attacked Poland using Ford trucks. They counted death camp bodies using IBM punch card computers. And the Zyclon B extermination gas was produced by IG Farben with financial ties to Rockefeller and Standard oil in a company called Standard I.G. Farben. The Nuremberg trials were fixed. They only got the top leaders, many of the lower ranks went free or had reduced sentences. None of the West's financiers were even indicted. Many of the individuals in German intelligence went right into the CIA as it was founded by those from the US that supported Hitler. After the war ended Prescott Bush got his confiscated funds back. The Bush family fortune is based upon these funds, much of which were obtained from the profits of the slave labor camps. The CIA is just the police arm of the 1%. They crush democracies (labeling them communist or socialist) and install dictatorships beholden to the multinational corps. They are the largest volume illegal drug runners in the world. The current operation in Afghanistan represents 80% of the worlds heroin. The Taliban eradicated 90% of a full year's crop of opium. After we invaded the entire crop was re-established. They killed the Kennedy's and engineered and perpetrated OK city and 911. OK city being a test run of the methods used at 911.
  17. first female 5.15a

    Lynn Hill did have a slight advantage on the Nose, having small fingers to send the great roof, it being size dependent. Destivelle soloed the N Face of Eiger in winter and the Bonatti on the N face of the Matterhorn. Let's not forget Edurne Pasaban, the first woman to climb all 14 8000M peaks, or Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to climb them all without supplemental oxygen. Always thought that single pitch at the crags was just training for bigger things. Let's see the first woman to free solo the NEB of Slesse, or climb it in winter.
  18. Trip: Baring - Standard Route Date: 3/5/2015 Trip Report: Baring is in nice winter shape. Dry on the approach and snow in firm condition with boot track through the talus and to the summit. Up high (before the first notch) the dirt is frozen and slippery, you need crampons. will post more when time permits
  19. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    So you quote my post and ignore every point in it, while bringing up something I said nothing about in said post, and then proceed with a 100% ad-hominem attack. Where's your "argument" Fairweather?
  20. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    I think we have more over prescription and abuse. Plus the "health care" industry doesn't cure, it just treats symptoms, the drug thing is part of that. We might have more traffic deaths, there are practically no restrictions on getting a license, unlike say Germany for instance.
  21. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Part of it can be attributed to poor diet and life style, but gun shootings are not that significant. Far more people die from prescription drugs than either guns or illegal drugs.
  22. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Your right, the one brief time the Dems had a super majority. So since it was approved by the insurance companies and it was very similar to the plans from Dole, McCain, Romney then the repugs opposed it because of their pledge to oppose anything and everything Obama did. Not because they disagreed with what the predatory corporations wanted. After all mandating someone to purchase a product from a private company is certainly the antithesis of democracy. What are you saying, that the insurance companies are led by liberal CEO's? So you follow politics and the corrupt politicians, who are all corrupt, but you somehow believe that the 1/2 of them with the R after their name are not corrupt. If you like we can compare crimes by presidential administration between the D's and R's. Oh and I don't watch Maddow (I don't even own a TV), she's just a liberal gatekeeper, there's nothing on the predatory corporate TV that is not completely controlled. Just ask yourself why Donahue and Olberman were axed from the supposed liberal channel when they had the highest ratings. Are you still believing that official government conspiracy theory regarding 911? The one where all sorts of impossible stuff happened? Like most of Newton's laws of physics were turned on their head? Like where most of the major protocols for Norad and fire, crime, and airplane crash investigation were completely ignored? The one where the corporate media contradicted themselves on multiple occasions and then dutifully covered up after the fact? So what do you know about engineering and physics? Are you aware that several steel skyscrapers have burned in what is typically called a "raging inferno" fashion. Like where either the entire building or complete floors are fully engulfed with flames. And yet none of these steel building raging infernos have ever collapsed? So what about WTC building 7? It burned partially on just a few floors, never having even one floor fully engulfed in flame . And yet if fell within it's own footprint exactly like a controlled demolition? How do you explain that?
  23. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Hey Fairweather, we spend twice as much as all other developed nations yet our life expectancy is less than most of them. And all our people don't even have coverage. What are the Republicans or the corporate Dems going to do about this? NOTHING, because they like it when they can rape and pillage. The high costs are because of big pharma, big cancer, big hospitals, big insurance, all taking up to 30% right off the top. That's the way the sold out Repugs and Dems want it. It has nothing to do with liberals, there's no liberals at the head of predatory corporations.
  24. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Fairweather, wake up from you Faux News induced dream, Obamacare is a Republican plan. It was first presented by Dole, then by McCain. It was implemented by Romney in Mass. It was written by the insurance companies. The Repugs allowed it to pass, there were no lies. If there was it was just propaganda cover for suckers like your stupid self. If the Repugs truly didn't want it they could have fillibustered, they did that to everything else from that entire term. You blame everything on liberals when they have very little to do with the real problems we are facing. There is a war going on between the 1% and the 99%. Their media tries to distract with a phony war between liberals and conservatives, blacks and whites, citizens and immigrants. It's all phony propaganda for stupid suckers like you. Don't fall for it. Both parties are near equally corrupt. The Repugs about 99% and the Dems about 95%. So shut up with your stupid propaganda bullsh*t acting like it's only the Dems.
  25. Thinner Glove with Gauntlet?

    I think you want the O.R. Arete. A lightweight gortex with a gauntlet and a drawstring. I hope they still make them because they really stay dry.