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Everything posted by Buckaroo

  1. All Foam Helmets

    That's intentional, it's called planned obsolescence. It's usually a minor failure that a few customers will bother returning but most will just buy another. It's timed also so by the time it breaks the helmet is showing signs of wear so less likely to return.
  2. All Foam Helmets

    Ugly helmet of the decade award./\ /\ /\ I prefer the Vader model, integral goggle and a breathing mask with optional battery powered heater. Plus you can freak out your partners with a scary voice.
  3. I don't want to pay for your climbing trip

    I think the premise of this thread is a bit exaggerated. Doubt pro deals and sponsorships make up much more than 2 or 3%. I think the problem is more along the lines of people not being able to afford the normal prices. Because we did away with tariffs in the '80s, and many of those relatively good jobs making jackets and cams have moved to China.
  4. I heard it was the belay loop, being too old and too worn.
  5. Looks like this thing is easier and safer in the winter. I wonder if the dry tooling is picked out also? [video:youtube]
  6. outer space, leavenworth

    That's a bit of a stretch.... Okay, it has some alpine characteristics, it's alpine-ish.
  7. outer space, leavenworth

    Do the Remorse start, it means more quality pitches. The regular start is a boring scramble for the 1st 2 pitches. Take a single 60M. Take a regular rack with 2 or 3 doubles in the hand size range. There are no fixed belays so leader must save gear for the belay on every pitch. Take some nice light weight sticky hikers to carry over, you are walking off the back side, which you don't want to do in the dark if it's your first time. There is ALWAYS someone on the route on the summer weekend. The only way to have half a chance of minimum traffic is to do the complete approach in the pre-dawn which is tricky if you've never done it. Otherwise just get in line and prepare to wait. Plan B if you don't want to wait is Orbit which is almost as good. This is an alpine climb, watch out for rockfall, people have been struck at the base. Also heads up on the descent it has some route-finding and 4th class. Don't drop down too far before you start traversing back to the base and there is more 4th class on that traverse.
  8. Don't know how much pain you are in or the extent of the injury but you may be able to hike and climb with a torn meniscus, I did so for 2 or 3 years. Awesome vid, reminds me of when I did it. Is that a multi-rotor FPV? What kind of camera?
  9. The 50 best climbs at Index

    Totally recommended, or even rap down to the end of the traverse on p2, you can do this with a single 60M.
  10. EmKay and I climbed Dreamer on Green Giant Buttress in Darrington on Thursday June 25th. On the Blue Crack 6th pitch I was leading and found a fairly new large cam left in the crack. It was sort of over-cammed but not that bad. It took about a minute to get it to come out. It was left without a biner so guessing it was a rookie following that couldn't get it out. I already have one this size and brand and hardly ever use it, so don't need to keep it as an extra. Identify the cam BY PRIVATE MESSAGE, and you can have it back for a 6 pack of micro brews, prefer an IPA. The cam was probably left guessing between Sat the 20th and Wed the 24th of June.
  11. Did You Lose a Big Cam on Dreamer (G.G.B.)?

    The best thing to happen this decade.
  12. Did You Lose a Big Cam on Dreamer (G.G.B.)?

    If you had left out the reason you don't care to keep it you would have sounded like a good Samaritan instead. Yeah, re reading this you could be right. It assumes the law of booty, that if you can't clean it then someone else gets it. We have a new lead though. Does anyone know a woman climber named Jade from Vancouver?
  13. Did You Lose a Big Cam on Dreamer (G.G.B.)?

    B.S., you would have requested IPA then as the beer type you requested is currently out of favor with the populous I think you are getting the trolls because you come off as a d-bag for asking for a reward. Obviously, you are due a six-pack and any climber worth anything would give you a six pack and smoke you out without you asking for it. Sorry, don't keep up with the favored beer types. So let's change that to IPA. Used to drink about a 6 pack a year but don't even do that anymore because it adversely affects the knee replacement. Regardless of the mass trolling this thread is receiving I'm sure the person that lost the cam will appreciate getting it back. If no one shows up I'll donate it to some indebted student, or someone trying to raise more than one kid.
  14. Did You Lose a Big Cam on Dreamer (G.G.B.)?

    from a post in the thread, and I agree ""If a piece is buried in a crack, or I can tell it was unable to be retrieved because of inexperience, I grab it. That's booty. Bail biners are booty. Gear left laying around I turn into a local shop. Gear that was likely used to bail or from a rescue- that is gear that has been properly placed and was easy to retrieve, I'll turn it in or post it up or both."" ""It's rather simple. If you know how to place gear properly, then you know when gear wasn't placed properly and so was unable to be retrieved by the inexperienced party that placed it. If they knew what they were doing, then it wouldn't still be there overcammed or buried in a crack. I don't feel bad about bootying that gear. Project draws and bail/rescue gear is not booty.""
  15. Did You Lose a Big Cam on Dreamer (G.G.B.)?

    Did I mistakenly post in Spray? All I'm getting is trolls. and furthermore I don't even drink beer, so that is only for my friends when they come over and hang out.
  16. Did You Lose a Big Cam on Dreamer (G.G.B.)?

    If whoever lost it ID's it I'll return it, otherwise I'll keep it. A six pack is about a tenth of what it's worth. It's just a finders fee, are you not familiar with this? How long have you been climbing? Since two days ago?
  17. Liberty Ridge Route Photo 6-17-15

    did you experience any rock or ice fall? What was the freezing level when you did it? That's what is probably the main criteria. Right now we are heading into a warm spell with lows on the summit to be above freezing by the weekend.
  18. Liberty Ridge Route Photo 6-17-15

    Climbing successfully and climbing safely don't always go hand in hand. If it's warm and the sun is shining and in these low snow conditions, this is dangerous. As long as you realize that going in... The other 50 classic climbs in the state (and Slesse) are in primo condition.
  19. Liberty Ridge Route Photo 6-17-15

    Thanks for posting. Liberty ridge is normally an early season climb. That looks like Sept in a normal year. This year was good for late winter ice climbs but it looks like Liberty Ridge got shorted. The climbing rangers should put up a sign at registration that this thing is out of condition.
  20. The Matrix - a new crag near Mazama

    Sounds good, is there any multi-pitch?
  21. Someone is cutting all the trees at the top of Thin Fingers on the LTW. And in the years since the LTW was purchased to make a park I've seen an increase in this "on the down low" "logging". Is this really necessary? I thought this was a public park? Is it still private and people are trying to do this while it's still legal? Aren't there any other options? Like cleaning once or twice a year? Or having a route gain popularity so that just climbing it keeps it clean? The main tree in question in this case is one big evergreen. I've seen it when just the branches facing the cliff are pruned so that the tree can continue to live and keep the look that makes the LTW a thing of beauty. Or we can have just one big ugly clear cut. I find it objectionable that this is being done without the input of the climbing community. After all it was the community that pitched in together and bought the property, and now someone wants to go and kill a bunch of trees without a community consensus.
  22. Libtards on Parade: Alcoholism, Corruption, Murder

    Back to the topic. As usual Foulweather has to lie and exaggerate to try and dig dirt on progressives. By Craig Stephen Hicks own admission it's kind of a wash to call him a liberal, and it looks like liberals that he was killing. He was arguing with individuals and killed them over their actions, the way they parked their car. ""On politics, Hicks says that he doesn’t “care about parties” but “just each individual and the rights of such in the Constitution! Some call me a gun toting Liberal, others call me an open-minded Conservative.”" But it's pretty cut and dried to call the latest murderer a dyed in the wool conservative racist Republican. And he def killed a bunch of old black Democrats. And he killed them not as individuals or their specific actions but as an attack on their race. Faux News: We don't know why it happened. Roof: I hate black people. Faux News: We don't know why it happened. We'll wait for more details.
  23. [TR] Aasgard Pass - Acid Baby 6/15/2015

    I've camped legally in the Enchantments during permit season without a permit. Just 20ft over the border.
  24. Shasta fatal accident last week (6/9 or 6/11)

    Warm temps and rain, followed by freezing temps. Doesn't have to be rain either, just warm followed by cold. Happens on Rainier even in the summer. Same results also. Your crampons and axe need to be really sharp if you run across these conditions. You probably don't want aluminum crampons or a super-light axe either.