Goat_Boy

Boring...

Unless you need bug or snaffelhound protection, few tents can beat a Megamid for extended trips. 3.5 pounds and tons of room. Sheds wind and water extremely well. Best all around shelter made, IMHO.

Sounded good at the time: Preparing for the icey traverse above the schrund on Liberty Ridge, we're deciding on pro placement. We have 3 tools, 2 pickets and 1 screw (dude dropped the other on the Black Pyramid). It's too hard and steep for a good picket, and backing up to the better snow might leave the leader still on the ice at the end of the rope. The ice is thin at the belay, but we decide to anchor with a tool and the screw while I set off with the pickets and 2 tools. At a bulge in mid pitch, I realize I should have traded the other tool for the screw. I sink the little X-15 hammer into the ice, clip the spike without a sling, and continue to the good snow on the Ptarmigan side of the face. Once anchored, a pull on the rope levers the stuck tool out and it slides down to my partner, who pulled out the screw with his axe. The entire system was utterly useless, and a long pendulam fall would have sent us down to the Carbon. So close to Liberty cap, we got stupid because we were in a hurry to finish.

At least you have a 3 day weekend. I'm stuck here on the east coast, working through the weekend. And it's raining here too. The nearest crag is 1 hour and a whopping 1100 feet away.

Damn. I suck. Any advice on a free posting site whose url will work here?

Just a wanker testing a photo post. Forgive me if something strange appears.

quote: Originally posted by Gary Yngve: quote:Originally posted by ILuvAliens: What's the deal then. Upon our return to the Esmarelda Basin Park Lot my brothers car had a citation: Pay $50 or show up in court on so in so date. We got fucked by that a year ago. I think we pleaded not guilty on the ticket, sent it in, and never heard back. Ditto on that. We also returned a disputed citation and got no reply. I think the test program enforcement is largely ceremonial--or easily lost in the FS bureaucratic quagmire.

quote: Originally posted by mtngrrrl: The Disappointment Cleaver route is a fantastic route, in my opinion. I enjoyed crossing multiple glaciers and working up rocky sections. The diversity of the route makes it interesting. That said, I don’t think I could have done the DC this year if RMI wasn’t guiding thousands of people up it each season. The route has become a technical path that is very well marked. The element of route-finding is pretty much removed, which wouldn’t happen if RMI wasn’t there. I have mixed feelings about that. Congratulations. The DC in late season is certainly a different animal than in early season. The biggest objective (and maddening) hazard to me is the crowds. I think this route is an excellent and reasonably safe way to introduce yourself to the mountain and get a sense of the scale and effort required to summit. But I don't know why people repeat it except on a carryover descent. You might consider the Turtle approaches for your next ascent. Much more interesting (in my book) than the other intermediate and popular routes on the Emmons side. We did a Fuhrer Finger-Kautz loop on 7/16 and saw NO ONE on either route all morning.

Gregory Alpinisto (no longer made). 3200, double holstered, two racking loops, extra long sleeve and an integrated bivy pad behind the framesheet. After you dock all the tails on this thing it's pretty slick. Lightweight, too. The only Gregory I'd ever admit to.

Anyone had any real world experience with GoLite gear, particularly the Gust or Speed packs? Durable or disposable?

I'll chime in with a nod toward plastic bags. I've worn out 2 pairs of Black Diamond VBL's--and last month soaked my Inverno innerds with sweat through a 3rd pair. The theory is well proven, you will stay warmer, and keeping the boots dry at altitude is essential. But foot maintenance becomes very important because your feet are swimming in a warm, bacteria incubator for hours on end. I got a serious case of trench foot on Denali a few years ago. Pass the Lamasil.

A few slings for getting the hell off.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I have self arrested falls and I have unroped on many glaciers. Conditions usually permit when and how much of it I do.... Just give them a wide berth and be smart about when you decide to do it. Amen, Brother. Know the conditions as best you can and be smart. What's more dangerous, a solo up Liberty Ridge or an inexperienced ropemate among the DC cattle drive? Here's a question: Did anyone really teach you to read surface ice/snow, suspect areas, or did you come about this the old fashioned way?

quote: Another Stuart option to check out that I've heard is solo-able is the West Ridge. Not for everyone. It's not that the climbing is particularly difficult, but I've seen parties get off route above LJ Tower and spend a fair amount of time flopping around getting back to a decent line. If you make that mistake solo, you could be seriously effed. It's a good leap up from a coulior route.

Zeus smote many a sketchy pilgrim drilling a bolt ladder up to the heights. Here’s your enlightenment, sport.

You're right, it is a steep flaky scree slope to the summit, which drops almost vertically down to the stagnent glacier on the other side. Few people wander up that way. Lake of the Angels to First divide starts at pass above the lake and drops into the headwater basin (upper east branch of the Skok)and traverses north to the obvious ridge on the opposite side. Look for the so called "arrow" formation. Follow the open ridge toward Mt. Hopper and historic and beautiful Beverly Basin, passing high above Hagen Lake. This is where the O'Neil party bagged a record Elk during their expedition. From there you can descend Beverly Basin and work around Hopper to Home Sweet Home, or stay high and pick up a way path toward First divide. Easy hike up to Mt. Hopper from the upper basin. Really nice, seldom visited and surprisingly accessable traverse.

Thanks Rollo. Is the road in good shape up to Mildred Lakes Trail Head? That's a good early season approach to Cruiser, The Fin and the rest of the Sawtooths (when snow covers the brush). Since you did Stone, have you done the nice half day high traverses from there: Lake of the Angels to First Divide and St. Peter's Gate to Upper Lena? No climbing but really nice xcountry rambling. Great way to approach Stone if you want to tour the area and spend a night or two out.

Normy--what are your open dates for Sept? I'd consider an Elwha/Quinault traverse with ya. I know a group that'll be doing the Skyline and some exploring based out of Martins Park and we could deplete their beer while they climb Mt. Queets.

What is the deal with the Hamma Hamma road these days? Is the FS ever going to repair the washout? I haven't been up there in a couple years and it was kind of sketchy for anything but big truck. Have people made a few ad hoc improvements? Just how passable is it?

Zee--You probably know all the answers on this route if you've spent time on the volcanos. The traverse from Cold Springs approach might be a little bit of a nuisance this time of year, but I don't really know for sure. It would be a nice moderate route for your wife to get a little exposure to crevasses and route decisions. Nothing difficult, but still a good high alpine, low angle glacier experience. Avalanche Glacier is longer and a little more committing, with a potential schrund problem you might want to protect. And it steepens significantly before reaching the plateau--nothing too bad. N Ridge is a rubble hike suitable for hearty pets. I would disagree with those who suggested there is any exposure--unless you look for it. Great views from this side of the mountain, and the Killen Creek approach hike is really lovely. I guess the question is, does your wife want to carry glacier travel gear or just avoid the S Spur crowd? Adams Glacier (and variations)is my favorite route, but 45-50 degree ice is probably not what she's looking for. N. Ridge: go light, scramble and get sand in your boots. Mazama: march through snow and ice, manage a rope and peer into crevasses. Both are similar in effort. Either way, it's a good intro to a big mountain. Only synical hardmen wouldn't have fun fun running up either way with their spouses. You're a lucky man.

While questioning a pair who failed on Denali West Buttress and were deciding whether to take a shot at the West Ridge of Mt. Hunter, I hear this: "Dude, we just made 18,000 feet on Denali. I think we can handle this little fourteener."

Where can one find a map of the cave system? Does it change significantly from year to year?

A target is a fine design choice.

Do you need special "caving gear" to get around down there? I've gone under there, but not more than a couple of rope lenghts from the exit. It didn't look too difficult from there, but I couldn't tell what was beyond. What would you need in addition to perhaps an ascender or two? Can you imagine the early pioneers who waited out weather or nightfall in those caves? Getting completely soaked and having to wear the woollen suit of ice on the descent? Muir was a monster.

Nice job, AllenB. Winds have turned around many parties this year on several routes. Would you have bailed if RMI wasn't on your route?