fixedPin

[ 10-01-2002, 08:19 AM: Message edited by: fixedPin ]

Lots of dogs up at the campground. Bring mine often.

Did a solo trip up 2 weeks ago. Didn't feel any need for protection. The couple of areas of ice could be avoided if so desired and were only 35 degrees or so. Conditions were really good, but might have deteriorated a bit with this warm snap. Car to car in 9 hours.

Thanks for pulling my butt up that crack Mike - Great day out. Thinking that love is ruining my climbing. Last time i got dumped, my climbing quickly climbed a few notches. Now i am back to having my partners pull me up pitches. Ah well - such is the flux of life, love, and climbing.

The cobbler up in Squamish does a great job. $39 Canadian. Done in a week. Really quality work.

Anybody ever stop in at Seal Cove on the way up or back from Squish? Just spent a couple of days up there (weather was fine - few minutes of rain, then cleared.) Spent yesterday afternoon at Seal Cove for some cragging. Five nice face climbs (bolted with only very small rack needed) perched right above the ocean. Sun, surf, seals, swimming, and climbs with easy grades. What more could one want?

Anyone done the newish 10 pitch 'Ultimate Everything Route' up there? Was thinking of going Sun./Mon.

Rock On on the apron at Squamish is a great 4 pitch climb with a very challenging 50 meter 10a pitch at top. Great climb.

Partner bailed. Up for Total Soul or Silent Running at Darrington or something at Static Point or whatever else. [ 08-25-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: fixedPin ]

Anyone up for some climbing during the week. Preferably alpine. Squamish, Leavenworth, Darrington would also be alright. Was also thinking of trying to get up N. Ridge of Baker and camping up on the ridge and doing an extra day of some ice climbing (need the practice.)

Have a set of Trango's and like them a lot. Real big sizes are a bit narrow, but otherwise quality is great and ease of use fine. Like them more than some of my camalots.

I'd be a bit careful on any rock or ice with a 'twin' rope. Most UIAA for twins state that a single strand is not guaranteed to hold any falls. 'Half' ropes are rated to hold a least a single fall on a single strand. Make sure to double it up as suggested which only leaves you with an 18 meter pitch. According to the Messiah (Mark Twight) twin ropes are the safest rope technique. Also note that rapelling with twins can be a bit sketchy since there is so little friction in belay device making stopping more difficult - especially with icy gloves. [ 08-10-2002, 01:41 PM: Message edited by: fixedPin ]

Thanks for the pat on the back Mike. Your a swell partner too. Next trip? Hopefully see you up at Jofree tomorrow.

Wondering if anyone has been up either of these routes lately. See that freezing levels might be dropping to 6,000' so was thinking of checking one of them out.

Many better climbs around that don't involve scrambling through pitch after pitch of gravel. Seems like some climbs are a self perpetuating myth. Someone says it is a good climb, so others go do it and think that they should think it is a good climb and so say it is a good climb, etc. [ 08-01-2002, 08:23 AM: Message edited by: fixedPin ]

Used tennis shoes on route a few weeks ago. Why is it that anyone wants to do this route? Rock sucks (really, really sucks), descent sucks, bugs suck, rockfall sucks, no good pitches. I'd say if in the area go over to Snowcreek and get many good pitches on solid rock. [ 08-01-2002, 07:36 AM: Message edited by: fixedPin ]

Anyone up for a trip to BC - Jofree Peak NE couloir route tonight. Temperatures are dropping. Leave Bellingham 6 or 7pm.

Good posting Sisu. Can't let the fools with way too much time on their hands and no resources in their heads deter one from posting such listings.

Was talking to a friend before i did it last month. He has done it several times and said he liked to cross the coleman way down low (5000')and then heading up. DOn't know if anyone else has tried this approach.

It's so busy.

Nope B'ham. Which route are you up for? Always the greyhound or Amtrak.

Was up on Joffre about a month ago. Sun hit the NE couloirs at about 4am. Snow was soft. Rocks were falling into central couloir. We bailed. Think the couloir routes are night time climbs this time a year until the sun gets a bit lower in the sky and temps drop a bit, but you are interested in rock anyway. Really want to do ice routes. Will go almost anytime with you, but have plans for this Saturday. Sun. & Mon? Rock routes should be fine. [ 07-24-2002, 07:47 PM: Message edited by: fixedPin ]

Going tonight for a midnight stroll up Baker under the moon - in case anyone wants to join me.