matt_warfield

Niagara Falls is in.

No good solution to bathroom situation other than the crapper and suggesting blue bags when you catch perps with their pants down. Its like herding cats to tell people what to do with their bowels and other orifices. Overcrowding usually fixes itself when the pleasure of the experience diminishes enough. Plenty of rock away from the crowded areas. Avoid weekends, climb when its 40 or 90, start early or late. Camp and crap somewhere else. In other words do what most people don't do. Good news is crowded parking means no breakins to your car. I've been broken into several times by local yokels when sparsely populated.

Great TR with excellent pics. The snow anchor thing I'm sure is just one of many adventures one has in the really big show that is Patagonia. Long ways from Squamish, eh?

Climbing almost requires OCD to be safe: -Tie-in knot -Flaking the rope -Placing pro thoughtfully -Checking your belayer -Checking your belay -Checking rappel anchor and apparatus -Checking your rope for aging -Etc. etc. Then just have fun right?

This is too much fun so will go again: 1) -Angels Crest Squamish with a camera with no film -Sykes Sickle RMNP -Some 10d slab route on the Apron at Squamish; puzzling and ruins your calves and your nerves. Being pumped is not an issue -Diedre at Squamish, the crux is waiting in line. -Kor's Flake RMNP Lumpy Ridge which I swear is the hardest 5.7 around. -Yellow Spur Eldo CO 2) - Pervertical Sanctuary Diamond CO - Yellow Wall Diamond CO - An elusive V4 at Vertical World that disappeared. - Some other goals in WA since I have spent a lot of time in BC and CO. No offense. 3) - To Bolt or Not to Be, Smith. Can't get a foot off the ground. - Midnight Lightning, Yosemite. I looked closely and fled - Anything on El Cap. Not suited for big big heights and multiple days. - Father and Sons Wall Denali. Life or death is iffy. - Willis Wall Rainier. Life or death is more iffy.

Looks like you've got ice on your mind. Wish I could join you, just got a knee replacement so maybe next year. Infinite Bliss? Why is that on "never climb"? it is a little wayne sarcasm. He could do it blindfolded just doesn't want to.

1} Favorite climbs I have done: -Casual Route. Diamond CO -Birds of Fire. RMNP CO -Grand Wall, Squamish -Petit Grepon, RMNP -Outer Space. You know where it is. -I cheated cuz its six. Classic Crack Der Leavenworth. 2) -I have aspirations of Rainy Day Women Little Si and have done it but can't lead it. I'm a hang dog. -Some 30' climb at Vantage that has an elusive move. On lead. -Heinous Cling short at Smith. 3) - Heinous Cling full at Smith is way over my head - I'm pretty good at altitude but any 8000 m. peak is not going to happen. Too much snow and ice. - Rainier. Just don't like it. I like rock or a safe slog. - Any boulder problem on Grandpa Peabody Bishop CA. - Dawn Wall Yosemite. The media coverage isn't worth it unless you are Warren Harding with a couple empty bottles of wine.

You forgot the best crag in the state, Index, which is only an hour from seattle. And where the hell is spire rock? I didn't include Index because its harsh for anybody new to the area. Spire Rock is inside joke. Its a constructed crag in Spanaway public park.

You might want to define "trip". Beckey has been on a trip for decades. And before defining volcano, review the debate that ended with the fact that Pluto is no longer a planet. Pick the best ones while thinking about the film and not the goal.

If you are serious about skiing or climbing, go elsewhere or plan to drive. If you are serious about a small town groove, a small crag, and water based tourists you are in the right place. I live in Seattle which aside from E32/E38 and Spire Rock is 2 hours from anywhere. Or 4-5 hours from beyond anywhere. Hint (Squamish and Smith). But anywhere can be important if you have means to get there. Just have your priorities straight. And the gents have it right: Baker is a long ways from you.

skiiers are cursing you.

You will learn more in 1 day with am AMGA certified guide than in a month with any club. You will not meet many people but you will learn to climb well, be challenged, and be safe. Have a big experience and meet contacts later.

In the summer, can they help with wildfires?

Been there under 40 deg. with hands freezing. It ain't bouldering (mostly) where you throw off your puffy and throw down in 30 seconds. You may step out of the car and say this sucks or you may have the time of your life. Spring/Fall are best. Its a poorly kept secret. On the other hand I think Watts in his guide said he climbed there every day for a year.

But you could spend a week in Index watching the rain. And a week there is best spent climbing 5.10 and up. Western Washington is fickle. Good conditions are at a moments notice in winter/spring. But no rattlesnakes W. of Cascades.

Agree with GGK. A week is not worth it at Tieton or its cousin Vantage. Think big picture for a week. Smith Rock(which should be a big duh for you) and Bishop (Owen's River Gorge) have great conditions that time of year. Both have good camping. No big city lights but climber amenities. The experience will be way beyond Tieton. And there are as many rattlesnakes at Skaha as in Tieton. Also beware Leavenworth and Vantage for those critters.

good for Drew. Saw him climb when he was knee high to a grasshopper at Little Si. He was kinda bored. Apparently he got over it! Film?

sounds like you need some psychological therapy, as you already have one serious injury, most likely from over training, and now you are on a trajectory for another one. I agree with ggk. biggest mistake you can make is to not let the body recover. Focus on uninjured areas. recovery can take a while. rush it and you may be sorry.

I'm glad I only climb at Vantage where cam hooks might pull down a whole pillar. But then so might cams. Or nuts. Granite is overrated. And aid is, well, aid.

Got it. Thanks.

Thanks for the TR. Haven't done that one yet but the views and pics are very nice. A couple notes: we on cc.com prefer the term snafflehound to wood rat as too much scientific jargon clouds the issue and confuses some readers. The smell of a rodent inches from your face in the middle of the night, bushwhacking, crossing streams, and finding bears on the trail makes it a perfect Cascade outing. Oh and lots of hiking and of course the climbing.

I concur. Nothing needed for approach, steep snow on descent. Axes will be a pain on the climb but nice to have to get down safely.

I agree 100%. Money IS the Gendarme and OW above. Otherwise you are being cheated.

I would avoid Dragontail. Steep snow that might fill the pants of newbies. Being IN the upper Enchantments will fill the bill without danger. Hike to the base of Prusik, ascend Little Annapurna and Enchantment Peak and the group will have big smiles.

Here is the scoop. Do Little Annapurna and Enchantment Peak. Both are basically scrambles. Avoid permanent snowfields and higher peaks because you will see them all from anywhere. It is a cathedral of peaks but looking is just as good as getting and 5.3 Beckey can get you killed. The Enchantments are one of the special places on earth, climbing or not. Go get some. But then "get some" involves 10 miles and 5500 ft. elevation gain. It is an acquired taste. Leavenworth has some of the most relief in the world. When in shape you will appreciate it. Up and up and up and so on. One of my special car to car days was to do the entire route, mount Little Annapurna, and exit at Stuart TH. Many cc.comers have done it I am sure.