shuksan

park->climb->move->swill

cj, check your PMs.

I'm planning on pulling in around 3:30 or so.

Looking for a nice moderate route -- maybe sunshine on hood or kautz on rainier. Saturday might work; Sunday and Monday are better.

If the forecast is right and there's not too much new snow, I'd like to do Leuthold's; otherwise it'll have to be South side. I can start early if ya need get to work after (Ivan??).

I'll take em! Check your PM's

can ya add me too?

Sketch, that article was in today's paper. BTW, was there a post for an upcoming (Thursday???) Portland kegger recently? I seem to remember seeing one, and now I can't find it. I was lookin forward to a

Congrats, Ivan! Where do you propose for an alcohol infused get-together?

I might be interested too. I'd thought about doing this before, and figured a bivy stop made sense before starting up from T-line.

I think the pressure differential is more accurately due to the RATE of change of the volume of the thoracic cavity -- if you breathe slowly, you can still get the same lungfull of air, but it will flow thru a lower pressure differential than if you breathe rapidly. The pressure differential is also proportional to the ambient pressure; for a fixed breathing rate, the pressure differential will be lower at altitude than for sealevel. This ties together the idea of the body trying to compensate and tex's remark about change in breaths/minute. By breathing faster, the pressure differential would be maintained (the decrease due to altitude is countered for by the increase in breathing rate). This makes sense since pressure differential is essentially another measurement of O2 flow rate. Eventually the body's preferred acclimation kicks in so that efficiency at using O2 increases and we don't need the same flow rate. Then the pressure differential (and breathing rate) would be expected to go down.

I'm planning to hit the south side Sat. am. Is there anyone else thinking of heading up a more interesting route that I could climb with?

Ahh, the 9-to-5 grind makes midweek climbs tough... This weekend looks possible, though.

so is it R&R or Horse's brass? I'd vote R&R -- either place, I'll be there

I believe those initials would be DH = Dan -. It's a well known fact that putting in your batteries backwards produces erratic GPS plotting information... as well as delusions of grandeur.

The prusik will also be useful if you should need to escape from the belay. It's good to know the kleimheist(sp??) knot, since it is the best friction knot for a sling.

any other non spray-addicts miss this one: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB23&Number=165615&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

CBS, I don't think it proves anything, except that Blix comes with a biased point of view and would like to come out of this looking as good as possible. Note how he sowed the idea that any WMD found in Iraq are likely a plant by the US. His certification of Iraq as nuke-free in the '80s and having been proven wrong after the gulf war shows the inherent weakness of inspections. The missile that hit a shopping mall in Kuwait showed that Iraq had undeclared proscribed weapons (it had a range greater than the "declared" proscribed system). Hans Blix is the last person to go to for an unbiased opinion on the question of WMD in Iraq. I would think that maybe Rolf Ekaeus (sp?) would be a better choice -- not sure what his ax to grind would be, other than being opposed by the countries that did the most to arm Hussein over the last 30 yrs (Russia, France, and China).

Yes, B-rock, the same Wickwire. I had thought there was some thread about it here, but can't seem to find it. Here's his latest project (and reference to the Rainier accident): outsideonline news

I picked up a pair of the Sportiva Lhotses for $200 on ebay -- heavy leather, duratherm/goretex, well-protected kevlar ankle cuff. They were overstock being sold by Down Wind Sports of Marquette MI. They had a few more pairs left if anyone's interested.

I can't get out tonite, but later this week or next week are open... Getting checked out for belay is pretty simple at PRG. I could also hit Stoneworks on the way home from work, I think.

Where do you go for the plastic pulls, Sketch? My normal partner is busy this week and next. Would you be interested in hitting PRG sometime?

This might make fall factor clearer (or not): 1. Before the fall, the climber has some amount of potential energy, and zero kinetic energy E1. 2. After the fall, climber has a smaller amount of potential energy E2=E1-E, and zero kinetic energy. 3. During the fall, the climber developed some kinetic energy, which was all absorbed by the rope stretching. Also, some of the climber's potential energy was directly absorbed by the rope stretching. The total amount of energy absorbed by the rope's stretching was equal to the change in potential energy, E. The energy E which must be dissipated by the rope stretching is equal to the climber's mass multiplied by the distance of the fall. The important figure relating to the rope is how much energy it must dissipate per foot of length, so if D is this figure: D=mass*fall distance/rope length If we assume a "standard climber", the important figure is fall distance/rope length = fall factor. Why is the energy dissipated per foot of rope important? Because the model of the rope says that you have to pull harder on a rope to dissipate higher amounts of energy per foot of rope. Basically, the simple model says that the peak force of the fall is directly related to how much energy per unit length the rope must dissipate. In long falls, this force acts over a longer time, but is no greater, if fall factors are equal. Of course this model is very simplified and does treats carabiners as perfect frictionless pulleys, so it leaves out a lot of forces we know are real. Sorry if this is unclear, but I hope it helps. Back to work!

It's time for me to get a new pair of boots for general PNW alpine use. I realized I don't know too much about footbeds/insoles for mountaineering boots. They seem to be well-liked by the retail shops, but I'd like to know if anyone has found them to be worth buying. Do most people use the off-the-shelf type or the custom-fitted versions?

I only got a half serving of the headache, as I skipped out on heading over to Winter's. How long were you all at it?