Old_Man
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Posts posted by Old_Man
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Good question...
What's the best way up there now that the Alpental approach is shut down??
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Nice work...looks like you all had a great climb.
Not sure if there is actually a "Mazama Headwall." By your photos, you clearly climbed the Mazama Glacier, and then traversed for a finish on the upper Klickitat Glacier. The Mazama Glacier is more of a pocket glacier, and is formed between a couple of ridges. The traditional finish of of the Mazama Glacier, of course, is up the snow/corniced ridge, that leads up to Piker's Peak (menioned as the "South Peak."). The corniced ridge above the Mazama Glacier forms the south edge of the upper Klickitat Glacier.
Next time you're on top of Piker's Peak, go down about 10-20 feet on the west side amongst the rocks, and you'll be able to read an inscription on a large boulder that says something along the lines..."if you stop here, thinking this was the summit of Adams...then you're a "Piker." Hence, the name of the place became Piker's Peak. Seems to me there's a couple of other old inscriptions there, too. I don't remember the date signed on the rocks, but it's something like in the 30's or 40's.
Good on ya...I'm jealous of your trip! Sweet...and congrats!
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Verizon has the best coverage on Rainier, without a doubt. They have tuned their towers to increase the reception/calling abilities on the moutain. ATT works at times, but it's not as reliable (their digital vs. analog settings are set differently, so if there's even a tad of digital signal...but not enough to connect, it won't switch to analog and then it doesn't work on either band. At least that how it was for a long time; may have changed). Verizion seems to reliably connect just about everywhere around Rainier, and I've connected as low as Paradise.
Verizon seems to work pretty well in other mountain terrains as well.
Nokia's are working OK for me, especially with some larger LION batteries (work well in cold).
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Cluck,
Cool...thanks for the learning. Nice to pick up some bits trivia from this website. Always appreciated...the homwork's appreciated.
Never done the traverse...been wanting to for decades. Might do it next year...ya got my curiosity up now.
I'll tip one to you guys. Nice work!
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Cluck,
I'm not around a map at the moment...Foss?? Is that the little bump between the Castle and Unicorn? It must be, according to your description. Guess the folks I know who've done the traverse, haven't included that one (guess I didn't know it's name). They've traversed it on the N side, and then into the top of the Unicorn chute.
Like Dwayner said, I'm not sure I remember anyone doing the traverse...including Stevens. I think he's right...it's easier to do it from the Snow Lake trailhead...then start up Unicorn from there. That way there's a 3,000+ descent to Longmire. Would guess mid-June is easier and quicker...when there's a lot of snow linking up the peaks. There's lots of short cuts, boot skiing and glissading to be done to save time. But...you're style is definately better than those I know who've only done it one way...and not the loop with the cycle finish.
Didn't realize the snowfield up there on Unicorn was considered a "glacier." Thought it was just permanent snowfield. I'm probably wrong. Is is listed on a map as such?
Nice work there Cluck. Good on ya!
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Steel cables, made out of aircraft grade or whatever... are hard to cut through just about anything... except for cable cutters. A long handled pair of them can cut through a pretty thick cable in a flash. The little lady's right... the thief would have to have cable cutters to get the job done.
I've seen the packsafes used before.... and felt they are a reasonable thing to use on a third world trip, where a pack in storage might be a little safer from the bellhops who work in the storage area. Or... used around packs in places where cutting the bottom of a pack is the thing to do. However... have also thought that putting a steel cable net around a pack or bag just advertises items of value inside--and increases one's vulnernability.
As far as using the cable system inside of a car at a trailhead, I'd go light, leave any BS stuff at home, and take the wallet, insurance slip, and phone with--and anything else of importance. Leave as little in the car as possible. The thief will either have the tools to get the job done if you have/use cables, a box or whatever, and if they don't... they might move on to another easier prowel. Or...if they have a little "quiet time," they might get pissed since they can't cut through the cable... and could be tempted to trash your vehicle. It happened to a friend of mine... they totalled his Bronko out by three fingers, and it had to be towed to the junk yard.
Sorrry you lost your goodies...and those glasses. Hard lessons to learn.
I'm convinced if you've got anyting of value... there is someone out there who wants it, and probably more than a few who've got the talent and brains to successfully take it from you. Get rid of anything you own, live like a bum, and you'll be more happy.
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Jefffski...you're right. My comments were totally reactionary, there's no cause for alarm, and no need to be careful.
BTW, how many arrests were made in the youth/climber incident??
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Seems the RCMP has motivation to keep quiet on the recent youth/climber confrontation issue. I would guess the RCMP and Squamish Mayor may not want to confirm their Squamish youth are totally out of control.
Maybe they're afraid, for some reason, to squash the problem. Who knows, but it seems like there's sufficient evidence out there to warrant care when in the area.
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Sure it's not $30??
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It left out our local favorite...the Feathered Friends Hummingbird. Highly recommended. Think that was said somewhere else here, too.
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That "sounds" right...
But, someone ought to post a photo of the knot. Like they say...it's worth a thousand words.
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Erik & Fern,
Couldn't agree more with you both...
Just thinking climbing and adventuring ought to be fun... without the additional baggage of "incidents" involving large numbers of people. Could and has happened elsewhere...just wish is wasn't happening to climbers in a cool place.
Avoid Squamish/Canada, no. Get upset when someone gets mistreated like they were in this incident, yes. Hope it doesn't happen again, most definately.
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Saw a report on this last night on KIRO TV. The RCMP seemed to minimize the gang "attack" issue of report, by saying one of the Americans had put one of the Canadians in a headlock.
The RCMP also quipped in with some phrase that implied the event was a enjoined equally by both parties... so if someone got hurt or things were damaged...well, that's what ya get.
Whatever happened...it just seems like a gang of 10-30 people (or as many as 60, as KIRO reported), all focused on 3 people, is a sure mix for trouble. Really sounded like the RCMP played down the whole story since the 3 Americans somewhat defended themselves.
So...whatda do when you're 3 people...with 10 to 60 people looking to create trouble for ya? Sounds like if you're in Canada...the law isn't going to support your self defense claims--or come running when ya call 911. For now...wonder if it's best to avoid Canada for awhile?? Or at least Squamish??
I say let them chew on their own dollars for awhile.
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The overhand knot is "the" UIAGM approved knot for tying ropes together, and works great for those raps when you've got to pull the knot over a ledge. It naturally spins around and clears the ledge without getting hung up. May help clearing other obstacles as well on the way down.
When there's no ledge clearing issues... I still use the fishermans. Old school habit.
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Jarred,
How about an address and a name for us to write to, expressing our concern over the safety of American climbers in the Squamish area?? Would be cool to have the US consulate's name and address too, for a cc. Might be a good idea to also cc the Amercian Alpine Club too, to heighten their awareness. Anyone know a writer at the Seattle Times to cc as well? How about the board of directors up at Whistler??
I'll certainly write a letter regarding this. Although I haven't climbed in Squamish for a number of years, it's a place I've always wanted to return to. Any efforts on our behalf to say we're a concerned segment of the population who deserves equal and fair protection under the law would be meaningful. Might also be helpful to mention that we contribute to the Squamish/Whistler local economy through our climbing, skiiing and biking interests.
It's such a shame that the locals there are taking things so personal...
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Good points, Matt.
I've always had my bag overfilled... to compenstate for wear and tear... and those damp days when the ol'fart sack sucks up the moisuture (from me, snow and whatever).
Anyone had any luck using a lightweight synthetic bag as an overbag... over a down bag?
Someone posted something about making a quilt out of primaloft. I've been thinking to make a quilt too. Seems like if it was made for 2-3 people... for really cold weather--it might extend the range of some bags. Was thinking primaloft on the top half... and just nylon on the bottom half. Would help to contain some heat and keep some moisture off everyone when the frost starts melting in the AM. I imagine there'd have to be some kind of a connection of fabric or something... between the climbers (by the shoulders), so the quilt wouldn't slide down or wouldn't lose too much heat. Think that would work?
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From the Cytomax website http://www.cytosport.com/products/cytomax.html:
"Natural Herbal "Lift": (in Tangy Orange, Go Grape and Peachy Keen flavors only) reduces your perceived effort so you can push harder"
I've noted difficulty falling asleep if it's used as a recovery drink right before going to bed in the mountains. It's given me skipped heartbeats too, which are common with the weight reducing diet pills. Was thinking all my problems were a problem for me...or it was my imagination, but the issue went away when I used the flavors without the lift. Anyone know more about the herbal lift aspect, as it relates to multiday extended efforts--and if there's a detrimental effect?
I've laid off the herbal lift flavors for a few months...and have been lazy to get the straight scoop on the stuff. I thought the drinks worked well, but was intimidated by the issues they seemed to cause. More info/background on all this would be appreciated.
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Been looking for a lightweight reasonably compact 2 or 3 section pole... anyone recommend a model? Doesn't need to be tough.... got lots of them. Looking for a lighter pole to use on longer climbs.
Gracias!
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Herr Dr. Professor Iceman,
You're right on all accounts, and your memory serves you well.
Not sure Chad was claiming a first-time "dayer," nor the fastest RT ascent. His time though...however it pans out in comparision to others, is totally incredible, and speaks his discipline of training and committment to good style.
There are certainly those who might claim he took some bread from those lads at 14k, or might have cached some food --and it reduced his achievment...and to those that push that line of thinking, I say go climb Denali in a day... then come back to laud your criticisms.
Hope - takes Chad up on his offer to a speed race! It's time to see if - can cut the mustard with some real competition...and witnesses.
Chad...I'll tip a brew with you in congrats--anytime!
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Dwayner...you're da'man, too. Don't get burned out there in the desert! See ya this autumn?? How 'bout some old fashioned rock...??
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thelawgoddess said:
ALL makalus suck.
Not sure if I agree with that. There are a lot of them I've met while trekking/climbing in Nepal...wonderful people! Makalu is a common name, especially for folks from the Makalu region.
My Makalu Hivernale GALIBIERS were the best dang double boot I wore for years. Downside...they weighed around 8-9 pounds a pair. This model has been worn up mountains worldwide... but not in use much these days. I picked up a new pair... just after Koflachs took the stage. They're now sitting as bookends reminding me of some very happy trips.
The new Makalus on the other hand... were perhaps made for more of a technical use.... vs. slogging/trekking up peaks. Seems like many of the new "mountaineering boots" have been designed with "ice applications" in mind... and their literature adds "great for mountaineering" kinds of lingo to appeal to a wider group. Ultimately, they're too stiff and kill the user and his/her experience.
I don't have pair of the new ones...but hear more troubles with'em.... than salutations of love and kindness.
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That's funny. I saw five or six RMI clients (out of their group of 8) on the Columbia Crest this year...and if you look through the summit register, there are a number of sign-ins by RMI clients and guides. Someone told me it was RMI's policy to go "to the very summit" if possible, depending on weather, conditions and how folks were feeling.
Maybe the guide who led the trip had some more info he wasn't sharing...hard to tell after the fact. Good onya for going back and making it that last 150 feet.
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SMC hinged, XL. Strap-ons...won't roll off an overboot when traversing steep slopes. Put on three buckles...one on each outside post. The inside posts...make all straps that connect to the buckles. With a little practice, you'll be as quick as a clip-on user getting them put on, and climb with more confidence---without the worry of them flipping off. Or as an alternative, go with a "mitten strap" system...or scottish.
http://www.smcgear.net/catalogfr.htm
Givel also makes some too, that are popular and is a good compromise. G12 model...they should fit. I also seem to remember they had an longer bar as an option...
http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/index2.html
Shovels
in the *freshiezone*
Posted
What about snow saws...options?? Best...worst? Is lighter...better?