jimmyo

Another reason not to go down colchuck glacier is that it it is actually a little bit tricky to get to colchuck col from the tope of dragontail. pandora's box, i think, is the name of the chute. but there's a way in and if you miss it you head down the wrong direction towards ingalls creek. that could cost a lot of time. so again, with non-climbers, would want to be especially careful about that bit of route finding too. also, Asgaard pass is a steep 2000 vf, so even though not technical, still can take a lot longer going down then you'd think with people who are usually hikers, most of it is not a trail as such, need to watch for cairns and the like. Jimmy O

So how was the routefinding? Any tips/major problem areas? gonna do this in mid-august. obviously would rather drop the weight of ice axes (esp as we'll be in enchantments basin 4 days so we'll have plenty to carry) the back side gets plenty soft by afternoon so that we won't need em? but there's enuf snow that we can stash a couple of cold pbrs on our way down in the morning? sweeet! Thanks, JimmyO ps will we f'ing die if we wear cotton but have helmets? just wondering...

Hey, So I have 7-8 year old T2s, dark blue, 2 buckle. Need to upgrade. From a telemark tips thread, seems overwhelmingly in favor of T1 in my situation. I ride 2 yo Rossi Bandit XXX fairly aggressively, mix of lift, bc and ski mountaineer (glacier type stuff) I have a good deal on a pair of new T2s in hand, whereas nobody seems to have T1s around. I also have some newer T2s rented for the weekend to try out. Will the improvement to the new T2s (not the red T2x, the one b4 that) be so great that I should take the deal and run with it, or will the T1 be such a different game that I should wait, search and suck it up and pay full boat for the T1s, even if it means waiting till next season? Thanks, Jimmy O

Anyone know where continuous snow starts above Paradise now? Thanks, Jimmy O

I have 6 yo T-2s (2 buckle). Last year put in the heat moldable Garmont liners. They are very soft in the cuff on forward flex. I'd like something better for the hairy stuff, glaciers and steeps, and also for bombing at the lifts, something with more torsional rigidity that can deliver responsiveness out of my boards (mostly 2003 Rossi Bandit XXX these days, couple others). What are the new generation T-2s like? Compare the t-1s? I wont' go T-Race. and the garmont ener-g and syner-G? Crispis? Experience re touring, steeps, performance would be appreciated. Thanks, Jimmy O, Seattle

This is a no brainer. Use em. No doubt they increase odds of saving lives. But a beacon is only a tool, and therefore only useful if the user is skillled. If you practice at least every season, including multiple beacon burials, you have a good chance to find and uncover someone literally in minutes. While if you don't practice then you might succumb to a false sense of security that leads to needless risk taking plus that will cost precious minutes or more in finding and uncovering the victim. Many places offer short avy safety courses. Gary Brill is the best known local. Don't know where he's holding court these days. But to be safe you need the whole package of education and training and experience and good judgment. You know, I think I'm going to wear glacier glasses next time I type a post to protect my eyes from the assault of the graemlins from above and below! Jimmy O

I have pilfered the text of a post on the Mounties site - apparently the rip-off paid parking passes are up for revote in the US congress. Let's fight it - see below. Jim O'Donnell For those who believe that access to public lands should remain free to all of us, please read on and contact your elected officials by Wednesday morning, February 11th. For more information visit: http://www.alpenthyme.org/access.htm http://www.wildwilderness.org/docs/options.htm THE OPPORTUNITY: The Senate Energy and Natural Resources Committee will now vote, on Wednesday morning 2/11/04, on Sen. Thomas's (R-WY) Recreational Fee Authority Act of 2003 (S1107). S. 1107 calls for making recreation user fees permanent in the National Parks only. Although this bill would allow the program to expire in the Forest Service, BLM, and US Fish and Wildlife Service, there is a possibility that one or more Senators will introduce an amendment that will specifically kill Fee Demo in those three agencies. (We must help make that happen.) THE THREAT JUST INTENSIFIED: Interior Secretary Gale Norton is putting enormous pressure upon Senate Energy Committee members to add into S.1107 the same language that appears in Congressman Regula's (R-OH) atrocious fee legislation titled "Federal Lands Recreation Enhancement Act", HR 3283. HR 3283 would make recreation fees permanent for the NPS, USFS, BLM, USFWS and the (newly-added) Bureau of Reclamation. It would also make failure topay the fees punishable by 6 months in jail plus a $5,000 fine! WHAT TO DO: Please contact every Senator on the Committee, if possible, by fax and also by phone. The contact list is below. These faxes and phone calls MUST be made by no later than 9:30 am EST Wednesday, February 11th. The Committee will be voting on S. 1107 on Wednesday morning! Address your fax "Dear Senator" and send the same fax to each Senator. Senators Craig and Thomas must be contacted by everyone!!!! This is one of those times when we need to bring enormous pressure to bear on the Senate Energy Committee at short notice. Who else can you get to call and fax? Friends, family members? Please remember this email alert is part of a grassroots nationwide campaign against Fee Demo. There is no well-financed lobbying effort getting underway. It's just citizens like you and me who believe access to our public lands must remain free for all of us. COMMITTEE CONTACT LIST: *- if you only have a limited time please contact those with a * next to their name first. Thank You. Senator Phone Fax Sen. Jeff Bingaman (D-NM) 202-224-5521 202-224-4340 Sen. Pete Domenici (R-NM) 202-224-6621 202-228-0539 Sen. Craig Thomas (R-WY) 202-224-6441 202-224-1724 *Sen. Lamar Alexander (R-TN)202-224-4944 202-228-3398 *Sen. Ron Wyden (D-OR) 202-224-5244 202-228-2717 Sen. Dianne Feinstein (D-CA)202-224-3841 202-228-3954 Sen. Gordon Smith (R-OR) 202-224-3753 202-228-3997 Sen. Larry Craig (R-ID) 202-224-2752 202-228-1067 *Sen. Jon Kyl (R-AZ) 202-224-4521 202-224-2207 Sen. Mary Landrieu (D-LA) 202-224-5824 202-224-9735 *Sen. Conrad Burns (R-MT) 202-224-2644 202-224-8594 Sen. Byron Dorgan (D-ND) 202-224-2551 202-224-1193 Sen. Maria Cantwell (D-WA) 202-224-3441 202-228-0514 Sen. Jim Talent (R-MO) 202-224-6154 202-228-1518 Sen. Don Nickles (R-OK) 202-224-5754 202-224-6008 *Sen. Charles Schumer (D-NY)202-224-6542 202-228-3027 *Sen. Tim Johnson (D-SD) 202-224-5842 202-228-5765 Sen. Lisa Murkowski (R-AK) 202-224-6665 202-224-5301 Sen. Jim Bunning (R-KY) 202-224-4343 202-228-1373 Sen. Bob Graham (D-FL) 202-224-3041 202-224-2237 Sen. Daniel Akaka (D-HI) 202-224-6361 202-224-2126 *Sen. Ben Campbell (R-CO) 202-224-5852 202-228-4609

My understanding is that glucosamine is good for cartiledge, period. So it can help with some joint issues. It is not designed to be a substitute for ibuprofen - i.e., it is neither a pain killer nor an anti-inflammatory. everyone may already know this, but it wasn't clear to me from the thread. I know some older athletes who swear by G. Jimmy

Thanks everyone, this is good stuff. Performance on steep and crusty or icy is probably a good standard to apply, as my only reason to seek the added security of a fixed heel IS to push my envelope. Will be sticking with tele for 90% of the time and praying for pow/corn 100% of the time, of course... On bindings, it seems that the Fritschi Freeride is the bomb? Is that right? What I'm wondering is whether I should just go for the most bomber binding, versus the argument that ANY fixed heel will be such a large incremental improvement in security that I should just go with the lightest one (based on the usual theory that lighter = faster and less tired)? boots questions: one hassle with tele boots is that toe protrusion, which impedes front pointing with crampies. Are the AT boots much more front point friendly? And is use of regular plastic mountaineering boots a realistic option - do they ski ok? do they work with all bindings, or say the fritschi in particular? Man, by the time I'm done with my qs we'll all be out there riding... Jimmy

I'm not planning to use them for lift serve at all. I ski everything at lifties on tele. Only for ski mountaineering when I want the extra ability to stick to the mountain - where falling can have some serious consequences. Or when you're on top of a peak and it is just windscoured, nasty crust. That sort of thing. It wouldn't be for high speed cruising or running gates. All things considered, I'd like em to be light. If I got superlight stuff, is the incremental advantage of the fixed heel vs a free hill going to be significant enuf that it will meet my needs? And what bindings are the easiest to get on/off when you're in difficult terrain? Thanks again, JO

Hi, I know there was a recent thread re beginner AT gear and I've checked it out. I'm a strong long time tele skiier who wants to get some AT gear to help me ski gnarly steeps, like on glaciers, 45 degree plus in less then optimum conditions and/or with scary exposure, and the like, to improve my ski mountaineering options. For example, some of my buds have skiied NFNWR on Adams. I don't think I'd try it on teles, even in great conditions (cuz you can't really know the conditions till yer in the middle of it) but I'd probably try it with the extra edging/stick to the mountain on jump turn ability of a fixed heel. Or maybe to ski either main face of Mt. Buckner, or Emmons glacier. That sort of thing. I bought a pair of K2 World Piste cheap, and am hoping to mount AT bindings on em and get some boots. First, skiis seem ok? Second, what boots/bindings do you recommend? On tele I use old T2s and either Rossi Bandit XXX or Olin Sierra. I am so ready to get out there... Thanks, folks. Jimmy O

I got the rossi bandit xxx last year (sweet deal, used once). Rides great in pow and crud. big and heavy for sure. but with skins on, it is like driving a groomer up hill. you can go very direct. downsides are weight and short radius turns. the skins on a fat ski weigh a ton! I have olin sierras, which have a cut like the k2 super stinx. it is an awesome all around ski. great short radius, plenty of float and holds up well at high speed. 2 years old. I think K2 has some good stuff. World Piste is highly recommended by some of my buddies. The bandit xx gets good reviews too. I don't know the specs on the new crop, but the recent versions of all those skiis are like 105 to 110 in the shovel, with the super stinx having bigger side cut. One advantage to K2 is that there are usually at least 2 chances a year to buy them dirt cheap - but both are spring-summer so if you want 'em now fuggedaboutit. Jimmy O

oh, just saw that this was an old thread, sorry.

Fuji Finepix 2600. 2 mp. 6x optical zoom (yes, 6 - like a 220 slr lens). Light and compact. 59 second video, great for panoramas etc. takes AA batteries (so if your rechargeables die you can replace cheaply). I paid under $300 off the net. Pretty easy to use. The one problem is the viewfinder is very dark on inside shots, so that the subject is like a shadow. the photo comes out ok but the issue is annoying. Photo quality is excellent. Software easy to use, tho it doesn't come with photo-altering software. I use a 128mb card, holds tons. Jimmy O

I have experienced the dark side of the Mounties as much as anyone, but it cracks me up how misinformed so much of the bashing is (hit reply now to share more of your horror stories...). In case you actually care what the basic course does: The Basic course is an all around intro to mountaineering, meaning glacier travel, alpine rock and general alpine climbing. It teaches knots, belay, rappel and some basic rock skills. It teaches snow travel, self arrest, crevasse rescue. It teaches/requires compass use and navigation. It requires MOFA training. There's a field trip on knots and belying. There are two more for practicing belay, rappel, rock climbing, and knots. There's practice in a field setting up c and z pulleys. There's two full weekend field trips for climbing in snow, travelling roped, setting up zpulleys on real crevasses. In fact, it does teach stuff in controlled environments, starting indoors and moving on to places like Camp Long and Spire Rock. In fact, the course starts in January with lectures and field trips, and no climbs are done until sometime in May at the earliest. At one of the early lectures, a fitness professional talks about training and the physical demands of climbing. At one of the early field trips, students are asked to bring a pack loaded for a day rock trip (except rope and rack) and the instructors are asked to do the same. Students in teams of two pair with an instructor. They empty all three packs, go over what they are carrying and why. Students are asked if they would be comfortable bivvying and if so, are supposed to be told they have too much stuff. At least two field trips require practice in cleaning pro and racking it. Students are not required to set up anchors but they are taught how to tie in and they are taught what goes into setting up an anchor. All of the field trip climbing is top roped. Maybe this all doesn't sink in, but the content and opportunity are there in the course. Only three climbs are required in the course. The course does not pretend to be a substitute for experience. Someone who goes cragging four weekends in a row will get more rock climbing in then a student gets in the entire basic course. That's ok. Note that the basic rock climbs are done in boots, not rock shoes. Some people think this is stupid. Again, whatever. Anyone who pays attention and practices will come out of the Basic course with a good skill set and an emphasis on safe climbing but probably not as a strong rock climber. As has been repeated ad nauseum, there's lots of ways to learn stuff about climbing and any basic course is just opening the door, you still have to walk through and get busy. It's kind of odd. I am really good at cracking on the mounties and have lots of material to work with. But the misinformation out there has me looking like a big ol cheerleader. who'd a thunk it... Jimmy O

I was there July 19-20 weekend. Getting to base of climb was becoming an issue even back then. We got there going very high across the glacier (high enough that you could or even should take the cattle track up and across a good ways. wish i could describe the rock feature we used as a reference). I don't know if this upper crossing will still be passable. it wasn't a snow bridge, just a 20 degree downslope finger between crevasses that was a few feet wide. If melted out it could be more knife-edge by now, a month later. It did look like someone had recently crossed the glacier very low (below the level at which you crest that first slope above the common low camp sites). That might be a better bet. Center of glacier was impassible, serious dead ends. Ways that looked like they would go from farther vantage points turned out not to because of huge (20 foot across) crevasses blocked from distant view by a knoll/roll. Weather went from clear to lenticular to an 8500 foot ceiling in about 2 1/2 hours so we bailed, can't give you route beta. Jimmy O

Minx said: my partner last w/e was an active member of the mounties. he had completed the basic course a couple of years ago and continued to climb with mostly partners from the mountaineers. what i found was that he was very safe and technically accurate with most things. h/e he was slow and inefficient and not able to adapt to a changing situation. in other words when things came up that were out of his realm of past experience it was completely up to me to deal with it. he was a fun and safe partner but not really independent or very self reliant. it would be nice to see the mounties focus on helping their students to become more self reliant mountaineers. In reply: This thread started with someone asking for info on the mounties Intermediate course (not basic) so I'll steer it back there. Taking a course will probably not change "who" anyone is. That is, some folks are curious and innovative and like to make their own decisions (like the many posters here who are fast efficient climbers and pysch me up.) But some people are just conservative and/or scared when they have to make decisions/take actions that involve exposure and risk of harm. Moving up the food chain of climbing quickly is not for everyone. Minx is right that the Basic course focuses on competence with a certain core set of rock and glacier skills and safety but doesn't give the experience or skills for real self-reliance. But I wouldn't expect a basic climber of any background to have "intermediate" skills. In Mountieland, that self-reliance and innovative thinking is taught much more in the intermediate course, which gives experience in leading and the more independent judgment stuff, like route finding, setting up anchors, and efficient gear management. I will add that in reading this board more the past couple of weeks, I am impressed how many of you put your money where your mouth is and take newbies out at times, and to answer our stupid questions. Thanks for that. Gary's experience shows it ain't all bad in mountie land. There are fast efficient leaders on fun routes out there to go with the slow stupid ones. Surprise! For the selective aware student there are lots of good opportunities. So take a course or don't take a course. Whatever. The climber's path is often an unmarked trail. Use your judgment. Peace out, Jimmy O

norman and/or skykilo , When did you get out? Take any significant breaks? Did y'all carry a rope - the 30m? what shoes and crampies? What was your approx pack weight? Been reading the lead up and curious as to what you actually brought etc. I thought I did it light and fast a couple years ago in about 48 hours with pack in the low 30s inclu 30m stratus (with some foot and joint pain to show for it), but this all makes me feel weak n laden with needless luxuries. Impressive work, y'all.

I just finished the Mounties Intermediate course. I'd say it is a mixed bag. But it is a whole lot better then the rap on this board. Long post follows, balanced but mostly positive. Ignore if you already know the truth, ok? BTW I lead 5.8 alpine now, am fairly fit with extensive tele and ski mountaineering experience pre-mounties. I signed up originally to get cheap crevasse rescue training. My climb/ski friends include boealps grads and folks with no formal training. Took me Jan 02 to july 03 to do the course. Facts: The course requirements include teaching at about 6 basic course field trips (including crevasse rescue - nothing like teaching people to get that wired), attending about 6 Intermediate lectures, taking several intermediate fields trips (one to demonstrate competency in most basic skills, one on winter camping - sno caves, emergency shelters, avalanche stuff, beacon search practice, one on rescue techniques, a couple on placing pro and lead climbing, and two on ice climbing); you have to be a rope leader on 6 basic course climbs, and you have to complete 5 intermediate course climbs. The climbs are not assigned; you have to sign up for them through a pain in the butt regsitration system. (if you are picky about your climbs it is tough - if you just want to get out and climb it is not so bad). They also give you a copy of Accidents in North American mountainerring to read, and a large list of recommended texts including Long's anchor book and others. The total time is probably 30 to 40 days and they give you up to five years to finish the course. The rope leads on basic climbs help you work on gear management, having to set all the belay anchors and raps, do the glacier route finding, and deal with all of the party dynamic stuff, without being tested at a high technical level at the same time. They are actually trying to prepare you to be able to organize and lead your own adventures, and to be better able to do the kind of mentoring that some on this list advocate. They do push a low impact climbing approach as well. A couple of particular things you can get from the course that friends are unlikely to teach: practice small group rescue techniques, with raising and lowering systems and the like. The Mounties provide MOFA training. One misperception is that the course has only easy climbs. The course challenge level is what you make of it. Alpine ice climb options include Liberty Ridge on Rainier and the the north ridge on Baker. Rock climbs include the north ridge of stuart. You are not required to do these climbs, but you can. This july I climbed the north face of buckner. If you have friends who are good climbers who will mentor you, and you are willing to read, study and practice on your own, then probably only small portions of the course will be useful. Because the course is low cost, you might consider just using those parts and not dealing with the rest. Are the climbs commonly disasters? No. I have been on climbs where the leaders have gotten lost, it is true. I have been on climbs where the party was too large. I have been on climbs where someone was ill-prepared, either physically or skill-wise. I have had an unplanned bivy too. Almost all on basic course climbs and it was miserable. But all of these things have happened to me on non-mounties climbs too. Who hasn't gone up the wrong "obvious gulley?" Have any legendary rock climbers taken fatal falls? What about the best guides in the business leading large ski parties to death in avalanches? If you climb new routes in less then perfect weather you WILL have problems. The mounties get a lot of grief in part because it is very big club and large size means more chances for screw ups, especially on basic climbs. Basic course lectures seemed almost useless, probably because I did study Freedom of the Hills etc. But the intermediate course really is a different game. I don't know why the difference, but there's much more respect for the students and willingness to interact. Treated almost like equals. Re the Mounties having only one way to do anything - not my experience (yes in the basic course but no in intermediate) You learn lots of different ways because you're climbing with lots of different people, all of whom are willing to share. Plus I have been referred by Mounties to resources that most of you know, like Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports, who ehlp me evolve my own climbign style. The Mounties are trying to ensure that strangers can climb together with a reasonable expectation of what the other folks'll be like. Aagin, this is more common on basic climbs. Intermediate climbs tend to reqire leader's permission, so they screen you first. Whether you can handle that process after you finish the course is a personal choice. They have an express climb deal where you can just put your name up as avaialbe for certain dates and climb leaders thinking about a last minute climb can call you. That's pretty cool when you're jonesing for a climb and nobody's around. RE the sheep syndrome, my experience has been almost universally that climb leaders expect and encourage us as intermediate students to study the route, to be accountable for route finding and making input, and are willing to listen and consider what we say. The sheep mentality is almost exclusively a basic course phenomenon. The intermediate students self-select, such that they are excited about climbing and are there to learn and do stuff. I have not found climb leaders to be overly rigid with safety issues. Again, the basic course is very different in this respect. And most of the leaders are good folks who are trying to give something back. Nice folks. Don't know where the ego-tyrant complaints come from. pretty dang rare. If you want to avoid "bad" leaders (or style conflicts), you just need to ask around and keep your ears open and you will find some who suit you. Not too hard I think if you're really just into alpine rock at 5.10 or so, the course isn't the best fit for you. If you just dislike institutions, stay away. If you can't handle a dose of older/retired climbers telling you stuff, stay away. If you don't like people stressing safety, stay away. If you think there are too many people on your favorite routes, try climbing mid week, or move away from this enormous metropolitan area and get your butt over to Lander and go climb the Wind River range. If you have substantial prior experience, you can test out of the basic course by doing a written application and a one day skills test. In sum, like everything else in life, you get out of it what you want and in proportion to what you put in. For example, this site, which is packed with so much great information, requires a consistently painful degree of wading through immature petty name calling and total personal tangents to threads. Many of the people who engage in these practices are the same ones who quickly criticize other approaches to climbing, and especially organized groups. So many ego problems. Do we climb to climb or to make fun of other people? (I enjoy the occoasional good heckle and expect to receive a bunch here. It's ok, I can take it, I have my Mounties helmet on and am anchored to both my desk and file cabinet, tied in with a figure 8) Still, we all do come back here... For sure, nobody has to join the mounties and there are many other good ways to get good climbing training and experience. I got a lot out of it but have been frustrated at many lectures, field trips and climbs as well. Was it worth it? You bet. Do I make fun of the Mounties? Yes of course - and of myself as well. Is there a "mountaineers type?" Don't think so. Many who join are great folks (in many different ways) who don't happen to know climbers and/or mentor types and are the kind of people who are taking initiative in their lives to go pursue something new. Some of my friends from the mounties have climbed and travelled all over the world. So just try to realize that it isn't all black and white. Why can't we all just get along... Peace out. Jim O'Donnell

Hi. Plan to climb Mt. Baker, Boulder Glacier route this weekend. Anyone know current snow level, snow conditions at standard camp (5700 feet on ridge), or other route conditions? Any running water at 5700 feet or higher? thanks!