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Crackman

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Posts posted by Crackman

  1. Really bummed I missed the sweet climbing window we had. Temps are warming but if it's not too late would like to get on some ice this weekend. Strobach, Entiat, Banks Lake? I'm coming from near PDX so carpool from there Fri night or meet up at trailhead. I'm willing to lead WI 4+/5- or follow up to WI6.

     

    Tim

  2. Good to hear from you Pat - yeah it's been awhile. Was thinking of you as well during the climb, about when we did the right gully with Pete many years ago. Hope all is well and maybe we can get out climbing together again.

     

    Hoodie,

    Glad you could enjoy them! Thanks for solving the mystery in my mind, as I was wondering where you guys came from and then where you went? I like your idea of coming from T-line with skis. Nice collection of climbs and photos on your site.

  3.  

    Going up:

    Didn't get a look at Yokum, as it is on the other (W) side of the mountain.

     

    There are probably a couple spots (depending on conditions and ability) where one could travese/downclimb from the spur to the base of the route. Spotting them on the way up and then re-locating successfuly on the way down would be key.

     

    SS:

    The entrance I took bypassed the wide-open section of the bergschrund on the left. It would be quite a challenge to take it head-on.

  4. Trip: Mt Hood - North Face Left Gully

     

    Date: 12/9/2011

     

    Trip Report:

    Decided to take the day off on Friday and get up on Hood before the weather window closed. Conditions on the route were superb with firm neve and ice to enjoy all the way. Came down Cooper Spur, which was also in fine shape.

     

    Sunrise - going to be a great day!!!

    Note - several good ice flows forming below the spur

    IMG_27281.JPG

     

    Skier on Cooper Spur - party of two heading up the spur with skiis, were the only other people I saw the whole day

    IMG_2734.JPG

     

    Massive bergschrund streched across the entrance to both N face gullies.

    The two step ice flow on the left looked to be the best (most fun) start.

    IMG_27361.JPG

     

    IMG_27391.JPG

     

    First Ice Step

    IMG_27471.JPG

     

    Looking down

    IMG_2750.JPG

     

    Second step

    IMG_2751.JPG

     

    Traversed over to the left gully proper - pulled by St. Helens, Rainier, Adams

    IMG_27572.JPG

     

    Found a perfect rock for a resting perch halfway up

    IMG_27591.JPG

     

    Near the top of the gully, another ice step awaits...

    IMG_27621.JPG

     

    IMG_2763.JPG

     

    A couple more shots looking down.

    IMG_27641.JPG

     

    IMG_2775.JPG

     

    Futher up, yet another ice step...

    IMG_2770.JPG

     

    IMG_2780.JPG

     

    Self Portrait

    IMG_27871.JPG

     

    One last bit of ice to enjoy

    IMG_2783.JPG

     

    Happy to finally get to be in the sun on top

    IMG_2792.JPG

     

    A final look back, at the end of a great day.

    IMG_2810.JPG

     

     

  5. Appreciate the scouting report Pete and Mito! Inspired me to go check it out for myself late today. Followed your steps right on up - thanks! Same as you - soloed several lines up to my comfort level and then down-climbed. Thought there might be several others there after your report but had the place all to myself. Would like to return tomorrow with someone and get some TR laps in. After two aborted attempts to get to Strobach this week, this hit the spot.

  6. After the fact, update from Wed...

     

    Lower Cape Horn Routes were starting to form, but I'm sure they're long gone by now. Managed to get a few good sticks in here and there but never too far from the ground. Hope the next cold snap lasts a little longer...

     

    Salmon Run:

    IMG_9397.JPG

    IMG_9399.JPG

     

     

     

    Cape Horn Lower Tier:

    IMG_9403.JPG

    IMG_9404.JPG

     

    IMG_9408.JPG

    IMG_9407.JPG

    IMG_9411.JPG

    IMG_9424.JPG

     

    MVI_9415.jpg

  7. Awsome John :tup:

     

    We must be on the same wavelength. Was in Cody for 4.5 days a couple weeks before you and did some of the same great climbs. We had blue bird skies and perfect conditions. Here's a link to my pics. Sadly it was the only ice for me this season.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Holscher.Tim/CodyIceFeb2010?feat=directlink

     

    A while ago you asked about my first trip there. I never wrote up anything but the guy I was climbing with did. Here's a link to his TR.

    http://www.splitterchoss.com/2008/03/11/cody-ice-in-wild-windy-wyoming/

     

     

  8. Nice TR Blake! It was a pleasure to get out on the ice with you. Thanks Nate for hooking us up.

     

    Does anyone know any history on the lower and middle tier climbs at Cape Horn? Martin & Krawarik state that no complete ascents have been recorded on the lowest tier. Olsen's book says, little is know of ascents here. I find that hard to believe since the routes are striking, highly visible from the Oregon side, and easy to access. We climbed the first line of several you come to (east end). From there we bushwhacked a bit until finding a nice trail that led to 2 more middle tier falls. We climbed the left one in two pitches on Fri and then returned Sat to TR the right one.

     

    Hope to hear of others experience on these climbs. With this extended cold snap they should be around a little longer.

     

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