Crackman

Climb: Oregon Gorge-Crown Jewel Date of Climb: 1/17/2005 Trip Report: Headed out to the gorge Monday afternoon to check out the ice conditions. Since the recent cold snap was barely below freezing and rather short, my expectations were pretty low. However after a couple of day being stuck at home thanks to the ice storm, I was ready to get out and take a look. Then there it was - the Crown Jewel. Maybe not much of a sight for those lucky enough to live where there are multitudes of great climbs to choose from, year in and year out. However, given the elusive nature of Oregon water ice, it was a beautiful sight to behold. Surprisingly no one else was around. The wind calmed down to almost nothing at the base of the climb. The ice was in great shape, fat and wet. Everything surpassing my expectations. I started up, planning only to boulder as high as felt comfortable. The climbing was so enjoyable and solid I never stopped. Don't know how much longer it's going to last. I'd recommend calling in sick tomorrow. Base of Climb Close-Up Mid-route Self portrait Looking back - End of the route One last shot on the way home Gear Notes: 2 tools Lots of coffee Forgot helmet - shame on me

Was the road gated?

Never used one personally. However Texplorer and I came across one a few years ago on the upper Kautz that apparently had been used to rap down a "steeper" section of the glacier. Steeper is a relative term, since at 45-50 degrees one would not put much load on the anchor. Still, someone trusted it and it held since there were no accidents reported around that time. Probably hadn't been there that long and it was set pretty solid when we found it. Ended up booty in Tex's pack, don't know if he's ever used it.

Here are a few shots, from our very short short but very sweet climb around the 1st gendarme. Tex traversing high on G#1. (I'm sure the pillar is chock full of deep symbolic meaning) A happy Tex regains the ridge-line between the 1st and 2nd gendarme. The ridge-line route past the 2nd gendarme, which we decided to leave for another day. There is a steep drop-off right below to reach it. May be possible to down-climb in good conditions but a short rap would be prudent. Slighly different shot, showing the 2nd and 3rd gendarmes. Ridge-line route is in lower right. Rappin off. I guess that old cordelette proves we were not the first to bail from this spot.

I love that climb and never get tired of it!!! It will always be special, as my first wipper on lead was on that offwidth, over twenty years ago now.

June 30, 2002. Great conditions! That's my buddy going through the small ice runnel near the top of the HW.

After attempting G#1 direct, Tex and I decided to try and go around it. The climbing was a lot of fun, definitely engaging and constantly varied: hard gully ice, dry unconsolidated snow, exposed rock, neve, you name it. I’m not certain, but I think we traversed much higher than the route shown in Oregon high because we ended up back on top of the ridge at the base of G#2. Continuing on looked extremely difficult, due to the soft snow and things warming up considerably, now that the ridge was in full sun. Party over. We decided it was time for us to bail. A full double rope rap off a horn, followed by downclimbing and another short rap got us down safely. I would sure like to return when the conditions are better. With firmer snow and ice this would be an incredible route. The big mistake was not bringing any rock pro, assuming everything would fully covered. Sure could have used it in some key places. Guess that’s what I get for judging route conditions from Portland. I’ll post a few more picks, when I get some time.

Here are a few favorites...

Pete, that was one fine bash!!! Another vote for the 3X or should we say XXX. Thanks Steve! Once again, the TG was superb.

Yeah, we dug and then pushed that Explorer out (not the SUV in the pic above). Those kids were lucky someone happened along or it would have been a long cold night. Anyway, here are a few pics from the climbing on Thursday... Base of Bent Screw (Rob, MntHigh, & Zack) Dueling leads on Bent Screw (MntHigh and Crackman) Zack Attack on Bent Screw LuvShaker on the Column Texplorer on the Column

Good times! I'll try and post some pics tomorrow. Better get out there soon, it won't last long.

Nice climb! Glad you got down alright. Texplorer and I met the other half of your party still waiting at Cloudcap at around 11pm. They were a bit cold and wondering where the hell you were. Rather than doze in the truck, we decided to hike up a little ways and see if we could spot you. No such luck. After a few hours of sleep up on the ridge, we stashed or bivi gear and started to head up around 3:30. We didn't get too far before poor visibility and increasing snowfall turned us. Weather is looking clear again might have to make another go of it.

Yeah love those moves on pitch 2 I've seen that variation you guys did but have never tried it. No idea what it is. Maybe the next time. Although pitch 4 on YW is just about as sweet as 2 &3.

So far so good (if your're where I think you are -- a nice corner belay ledge with a couple old pins on the right). From that belay, YW steps around LEFT not right and then up for two more pitches. By the way, how did you like that second pitch going through the loose flakes in the alcove?

Has anyone heard any updates on Madrone? This stalemate with the county has drug on for years now. Is there still active work going on to try and get the place open or has interest/support died off? Who can I contact in the climbing community to find out more about what can be done. I miss the place.

I'd like to get out and do something this weekend. Sat after the kids soccer games or all day Sun. Depending on how the the weather treats us -- Beacon, Bulo Point, or maybe a tromp up Hood??? Anyone want to try and make some plans?

I believe it is usally open until sometime in Feb. Hoping to get a few more trips out there myself.

Ah.....there it is, and there you are! Congratulations, you managed to actually find yourself and gain closure on that never-ending existential search . Too bad we missed you for the afterwards.

Five of us PDXers went ice craggin on the Eliot Sunday. The crevasses were partially filled with recent snowfall but we managed to find some sweet ones. Great day had by all. Go Shred Go !!! Ivan & B-Rock, I think I have a pic of you guys coming down from above. So how was it?

Thanks all for the beta. Jarred and I climbed the complete N ridge on Fri-Sat. There was never any doubt on the first few pitches where the route went. Some of those 5.8 offwidths are cramped and and awkward with a pack on -- much tougher than the gendarme pitches w/o. The climbing on the lower half may not be as stellar as the upper but still very enjoyable. Together, they make a great package.

hmmm... didn't I see a surprisingly similar TR a while back by some ex-Pimpz dude??? I enjoyed the extended version. If you ever find out who left that water up there, you owe them quite a few Come to think of it, yeah, it was mine . Nice work K!

I need to get out and climb this weekend, either Sat or Sun. Coe Icefall if it appears stable enough with Sunshine for a back-up. Would also consider Sandy HW or ??? PM me if interested...

Here are some photo’s from last week’s climb, June 5-6. Cheers to shredmaximus for the web server Sunrise just below St Elmo’s Pass The long traverse The team – Jay, Sarah, Jarred, Tim Coming up the lower ridge: Thumb Rock or Camp Muir??? You decide. (population 16 midweek with another 2-4 below) We left Thumb Rock 12:30 Fri morning and reached the top of Liberty cap at 6:30 This short vertical step over the bergrchund was the only time we roped up: The Summit:

Looks like I'm gonna miss all the fun and . Heading up to Rainier that night to take a shot at LR .

My friend Jarred and I hiked in early Friday am to climb the IC Glacier and/or Stuart Glacier Couloir, but bailed due to the warm temps. I was bummed at the time but now glad we did!