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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. ?Summit post or CC?

    You're in way over your head.
  2. Hood info.

    Ran into a group of 4 on the summit last weekend who had come up Wy'East. They said it was in good shape. There has been a good amount of snow since then.
  3. How do you get laid at Pub Club?

    I got all excited and posted twice again. [ 05-08-2002, 04:10 PM: Message edited by: iain ]
  4. How do you get laid at Pub Club?

    This thread's a hoppin'. To the chatroom! Here's my interpretation of a typical Dru workday:
  5. The ACC is much more of a club, in my opinion, than the American Alpine Club. I think you would be well-served to join them and find an introductory course. I've taken advantage of the benefits of the ACC (huts, small organized trips) much more than my AAC membership, and I live in the states! Unfortunately, their guided trips, courses, and GMC's tend to be relatively expensive. Once you are comfortable guiding yourself, the organized trips are often a good deal and a great way to meet people at your level. Good luck.
  6. Leashless tools

    I'd check the archives. This topic was hotly debated a few months ago, ending in the usual spray, profanity, obscure jpegs of snowmobiles, and links to hypnotic cats that seems to be a co-requisite to any good information on this bbs.
  7. unroped on a glacier?

    Falling to your chest and feeling nothing underneath, with a deep blue to black below you, and every move you make feels like you are slipping further down is an awful experience. I still do some solo glacier travels but those experiences are certainly on my mind. It would be a horrifying way to die on a solo climb. You would most likely survive the fall, but die alone in pain, in a slow hypothermic insanity. (Ask one of Wick's partners, who was roped). Certainly a gamble, but part of the appeal of the solo thing is welcoming this risk and minimizing it through knowledge and experience.
  8. Coe Icefall, northwest side of Mt Hood

    It seems that even when the road is passable by a high-clearance vehicle, the gate remains locked until the road is actually dry, unfortunately.
  9. The northeast face of Tusk Peak is still awaiting a first ascent....
  10. Another vote for Conrad Kain and the other incredible early guides up there. Chopping steps all the way up the Kain Face on Robson for clients! The pioneering guides of Roger's Pass. Reading old copies of CAJ and the Columbia mtns guides is humbling.
  11. A joke, for the hell of it...

    Il y avait un plombier, Francois, Qui plombait sa femme dans le Bois. Dit-elle, "Arretez! J'entends quelqu'un venait." Dit le plombier, en plombant, "C'est moi."
  12. this is kick ass

    Also check out this site. The stories on the sidebar are phenomenal: Real Ultimate Power
  13. Started from T-line @ midnight. Fricken' fifty thousand people signed out for Leuthold. Must have been a demolition derby in there. Reid G. is well-covered, no signs of anything open along perimeter. Large amount of av. debris out of leuthold and gully farther north, but old stuff. Access to Yocum Ridge was at ~9000 (not 8600' as OR high suggests). Still snow-covered but not for long. Traverse was a little steep for a bit (1 picket placed) then mellowed. Dropping on to Sandy was difficult (from our elevation), mixed steep ice that fed into a crevasse, bridged. I of course broke through and felt air under feet, but managed to get out by imitating a beaching walrus. The headwall itself seemed around 45-50, but sustained for a good bit. Ranged from awful crust to bulletproof ice. No pro used here, but a don't fall type of thing. Screws would be necessary if you wish to protect. Second tool recommended (at least for a gaper like me). Gale-force winds and lenticular in the top gulley, so we opted out of the 1937 thing to get the hell out of there before our viz left. Good route, great isolation, a long day. Hogsback berschrund looks monstrous and goes to the bedrock on climber's left. Check it out.
  14. ooo... baby...ooo

    Nice work but your spelling is atrocious . Better hit the books bro'. Congrats on your routes.
  15. Hood: Sandy Glacier Headwall

    Oh yeah, the USFS puts out a conditions page for the south side. I find this information fairly worthless and they clearly are going on secondhand info (would you trust conditions info from your typical hood s.sider?). Oh yeah, and watch out for avalanche. Danger should have skyrocketed w/ the new snow and high winds in the usual places. When the sun comes out after this storm, it'll be just like May of '98. People seem to lose their avalanche eyes in the spring, but Oregon has a secondary maximum in late spring for slides.
  16. Canadian Freshiez

    Hey timm@y, how'd bachelor fair in this storm? Good snow down there? Hood was fab skiing on Sunday. FRESHIEZ, FR---FRR--FRESH FRESH FRESHIEZ.
  17. Hood: Sandy Glacier Headwall

    S. side (dog) current conditions, as of 5/4: Groomed snow and Mazamas up to top of the Palmer lift (this route follows a ski run at first). Some small cracks at base of Crater rock (not crevasses, but melt-out stuff, could twist an ankle). Beaten trail up the hogsback (a literal staircase) to the chute (a constriction that leads to the summit), around 30° at this time. Chute's about 40° Bergschrund is definitely open but still bridged in the middle. It extends far to climber's left. Summit is thick rime. Excellent, cold conditions throughout the day. A real treat for May. On 5/5, a big winter-like storm rolled in and dumped at least 4" new snow on Hood (I chose to ski today, great conditions). You will encounter different route conditions than above. This snow came with heavy winds, approaching 50 mph at times, so expect some drifts in places (usually the east side of hogsback on the route you are doing). The rest will probably be wind-hammered or rime. Good luck on your climb. Hope it's not too crowded (we had most of the mountain to ourselves due to extremely high winds and an unsettled weather forecast, but May is climb'n season for that route). Hope that helps.
  18. What is Spray?

    I was going to fix trask's image link above, but I don't think you want to see it.
  19. What is Spray?

    quote: Originally posted by sk: Poor pepperboy...he is lost. But you have to give him kudos for taking on the crafty veterans. Even if they are all the same geek on a sticky keyboard.
  20. Big Climbing Party!

    If you want to see some real wheels, check this out. [ monster truck ]
  21. Big Climbing Party!

    quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: Here's what I'm going to do Sat. if it's raining. This here's my bitch magnet. Hello ladies!
  22. The funny thing to see would be an Avalanche with a Mazamas club sticker on the back window. Was that in bad taste?
  23. trask makes a deposit

    quote: Originally posted by Pepper Boy: 'The tribunal said that Filandia had done "untold damage to the game of football" . . .' To hell with the game of futbol, what about the guy's nuts?!?! The guy must have been hung like that squirrel on the photo board. Or he is now at least.
  24. trask makes a deposit

    quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by iain: That article reads like a 4th grader's essay on summer camp. Dont you mean Band Camp???? I didn't see anything about flutes in that article. Maybe I should read it again.
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