iain

Sow your wild oats on Saturday night - then on Sunday pray for crop failure.

A climber was once chewing on a Luna™ bar. I said, "You know, those are for women don't you?" He spat it out. I was dying!

A climber was once chewing on a Luna™ bar. I said, "You know, those are for women don't you?" He spat it out. I was dying!

All's well in the kingdom! Baahhh.

[ 06-12-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

ScottP, next time just give us a link to your trip report photos okay?

quote: Originally posted by sterlingclimber: Define an experienced climber. Experienced climber's resume: 2002: Mt. Si summit (bad Wx, dirt embedded in palm) 2000: Mt. Tabor summit (bad Wx, thwarted attack by transient w/ Olde English 40) 1999: Mt. Si summit (bad Wx, cougar attack) 1999: Pilot Butte summit (the infamous brown spider) 1999: Mt Tabor summit (harassed by urchins on skateboards) 1998: freesolo: the mount hood brewpub wall (chased off by management)

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: Paul, I don't quite follow your logic on that one. How could the middle climber end up upside down as you described? I think he is saying if you were in a 4 person team, for example, and the front two fell in, the second to fall in would be inverted if the rope is running through a chest harness. Personally, I don't use a chest harness because I find it annoying to have the rope running out in front of me like that. I don't use a kiwi coil for the same reason. I don't get upset at those who feel them necessary, I just feel better w/o one. I have not taken a significant whipper into a crevasse w/ heavy pack though. And don't intend to.

quote: Originally posted by chris_w: use a prussik on the rope and clip it into the chest biner. Wouldn't you be worried about taking the fall force on the chest in that situation? That could be ugly.

well in, trask.

ahhh shredding pustules...do tell! If you have any other gaping wounds or fecal impaction stories I'm all ears.

Funny how Scott'ware posts once and the thread is instantly off-topic, insulting, and hilarious. and then he never posts again to the thread! Such restraint.

Mikeadam'marmot I doubt the truth of your report and I demand photo documentation before I'll say good job. Until then, I'm underwhelmed. Dru, I mistook the infamous "stink bivy" on the buttewand for the death bivy on the eiger. Both are intimidating w/ obvious objective hazards. -iain [ 06-07-2002, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

What's with all that smoky haze over by the Cowlitz G.? Oohhhhh...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by iain: Funny how I have read so much talk about Mt. Si and may have even sprayed a bit about it myself but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or what is involved with climbing it. Iain just for you here is a picture of Mt. Si: Don't be trying to pass off the forbidding Pilot Buttewand (The brown spider) in Bend for Mt. Si.

Funny how I have read so much talk about Mt. Si and may have even sprayed a bit about it myself but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or what is involved with climbing it.

Just wanted to mention there's still plenty of good skiing to be had up there. Still skiable to the road at Devil's Lake. Had a great time yesterday. Summit to car, only had to take skis off once to cross over some pumice up high. Doesn't even take a whole day. -Iain

Hope he packed out a month's worth of "lawn sausage," as some have called it. Otherwise must've been pretty funky up there.

Boy, that was awhile ago, I'm sure it's significantly melted since I was in there. I carried for about 1/2 mile from the TH. The Hayden Glacier is fairly innocuous if you go up the middle of it. There is usually a larger crevasse near the top, and an icefall to the south (but you don't go near it). Typically people do not rope up to get to the col (I release all liability for that statement ). So the above advice is sound, it is a more direct ascent. The problem is that you don't get to ascend your descent, so you would be skiing some unknown terrain, potentially. I just skied the south sister yesterday, and the snow was fab. Hope that helps. -Iain

Actually, even the phrase, "begs the question" would be incorrect in this context. "Begs the question" does not mean "raises the question". It means someone is making an illogical argument by taking for granted the point they are trying to present. ex. "I think you are stupid because you are obviously dumb." -Iain (lord of nitpicks)

Not reaching the summit sucks. I've never been satisfied with it. It's unfinished business that eats at you until you return. -Iain

Of course. I cut out a hamhock to use for my backpad/sleeping system. Doubles as a SAM splint. My megamid's like a meat locker on the winter ski trips.

I climbed this route just a little earlier last year and I regretted not taking skis, used the winter approach. I climbed it again not too much later than this and it was fairly melted out, used the trail! Your mileage will vary. If there is still snow on the road, I would approach from the sharp bend in the ww road to the left (which is what I think he means by the winter approach). Be careful not to cliff out around the waterfalls. I've found the best descent to be down the ridge from Smith Rock, following the edge of the Russell G. to the PCT (this requires a carryover if you camped). Do NOT exit following the Whitewater Creek drainage, an epic-maker extraordinaire. -Iain

Dinner is served! BTW, the Tasty Bite/couscous combo is right-on. The ultimate bachelor food for home too. Unfortunately they are like packing in a lead brick. -Iain

you could die doing that. you need to get adequate training before using those wheel shoes. otherwise we'll charge your ass for the related rescue costs. as a taxpayer I'm sick of paying for all these rescues involving wheel shoes. yuppy wheel shoe users. sue their asses!