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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. Speedflying Mt. Baker

    He has other videos: ZwpSceSF9k0
  2. Speedflying Mt. Baker

    Yeah I saw that thing and was pretty amazed. He was ripping when he started touching down. Probably pretty low margin for error with that setup. I also dig the AK Enemies still making themselves useful as potential rock skis. Those are twinned, just in case he lands switch.
  3. Anyone who enjoys climbing in the NW should make sure they visit Luna Col once in their lives. I don't think there's a finer spot in the N. Cascades.
  4. Cooper Spur is IN, go get it! Light breeze out of the east at 50+ right now.
  5. Eric and Lucie your website has been an inspiration over the years, thanks!
  6. Self Rescue

    You are all missing the real take-home message here. No one actually owns pink tricams, and it is not worth your money/life/honor to clean them. The pink tricam project (PTP) is a community effort developed in the early 80s (kindof like the yellow bike program in Holland), where you leave them behind on climbs unwillingly for others to collect, and collect them occasionally on future climbs when you happen upon them. I know of at least one on the N. Buttress of Fury, and one on Young Warriors (Beacon Rock) if you want to save a few bucks. Be careful badmouthing gym climbers. They are only a trad rack purchase away from kicking your ass.
  7. especially if you wear jeans, converse allstars and a flannel shirt and start yelling down at your partner that you're out of snaplinks as you thrutch up to the next bolt. wait for a nice crowd to gather at the diving board.
  8. [TR] Mt Hood - Coe Icefall 7/16/2007

    ahhhhh the smelliot. must be a nice change from the palmer headwall direct.
  9. Beacon Accident?

    I just clip the bolt behind the flake on that side.
  10. [TR] Mt Hood - S Side 7/15/2007

    $100 says basecamp finds himself on the hogsback again this year.
  11. Garbage on the Eliot

    wow, that's a large bag
  12. Beacon Accident?

    It is sometimes a little nerve wracking to see people who are new the area (or new to trad even) gearing up for that side of the flake. Hopefully they did not hurt their back on that pointy rock at the base. J - thanks for replacing the slings, etc on mid free for some. Note there is some poison oak creeping up onto the approach trail, near where the trail bends at the east face.
  13. Rocky Butte Accidents

    Michelle, you might try contacting Portland Fire, as they are the ones who respond to Rocky Butte. I agree with Joseph, with a dirty, rolling edge transition in places RB can be hazardous, esp for non-climbers. I hope you are doing okay. And remember the weather forecast for Rocky Butte: 50% chance of 40oz showers with a slight chance of porn mag flurries.
  14. Pearly Gates?

    The old chute is a walk, but gets a little steeper near the top. Don't be surprised by how steep it drops off on the north side. Then it is a walk on a sharp ridge (with a sizeable amount of exposure) to the summit. One of the real dangers I have seen is people traversing too slowly under the rime cliffs over to the old chute. Stuff is calving off those cliffs all the time. The regular chute has a bit of a step to it, but it is probably getting buried right now. Then again, it might have firmed up so much, snow will just sluff off the thing for the rest of the year. Who knows. The regular route was mega-fun a few months ago, but certainly a big step up from what the typical south side climber would expect. Whatever you do, please do not get into trouble up there right now, unless you want to see a true media feeding frenzy.
  15. GAAAAA !!!!

    you haven't mastered a bowline until you can throw a bowline. get back to work.
  16. yep, green toyota taco. we had the playground pretty much to ourselves. my partner in crime might have some photos, but I was too busy having fun.
  17. YES! TD&H mtn was also incredible. You could throw yourself off just about anything. So there's a sign specifically telling you _not_ to skin up the heather getback? It's not like people are hauling through that section. Almost destroyed a ski on gods wall yesterday, fun times.
  18. Beacon Rock

    I found the 2nd pitch to be the hardest on YW until I found a "secret move". Perhaps it felt harder because the protection is not as good as the rest of the route (but it is there). Seems to be a recurring theme at Beacon. P4 is one of the finest out there.
  19. Media glorification of mountaineering accidents

    Glad you could make it. I think most peoples' biggest concern is more feel-good legislation with no teeth that really doesn't do anything, with significant hidden expenses, with no outline for funding. Ironically, it could put rescue responses in greater danger by building an expectation of rescue, and more frequent "pull the trigger and sit" situations, due to a mandatory device. Equally ironic is the fact the bill was introduced in memory of Jerry Cooke, who most likely fell off the north face, and would have had to pull the MLU device while falling to activate it. MLUs would not have saved that particular party. It is a difficult message to convey, because the MLU has been very, very helpful in finding people in storms. That fact should not be discounted. Simply, they should be recommended but not mandatory. If you are going to require MLUs to promote safety, shouldn't you also require specific boots, crampons, axes, etc? Anyway, I'm glad the latest climbers are back safely, so they can get chewed out by you guys.
  20. Beacon Rock

    That's just kb's opinion. I don't think everyone is calling that thing 10.
  21. Media glorification of mountaineering accidents

    Ryland, I sent you a PM with some details.
  22. Media glorification of mountaineering accidents

    The first public hearing featured Lim introducing his bill and why he introduced it. We had the inventor/director of the MLU program testify against the bill, along with the president of the Oregon Mountain Rescue Council, past president of the nat'l MRA, and Portland Mountain Rescue. Someone from the Access Fund testified against it. The sheriff of Hood River testified for it, with the reasoning he wanted to do everything possible to protect rescuers. I didn't get a chance to speak but I did an interview with KATU about how rescuers have the final say on what's too dangerous, and these climbers are not forcing us to go get them. We have said no before, and I believe most climbers out there recognize that we may refuse to come get them. The mandatory beacon law may change that relationship and promote a climate of expectation, possibly increasing danger to rescue teams and degrading the concept of self reliance. Due to the fact many who wanted to testify were still up on the mountain for the most recent operation, the committee has offered a second public hearing at 1pm on Thursday 2/22, Hearing Room E, Capitol, Salem. All you have to do is sign in and speak. Or if you prefer, submit written testimony. The committee seems to be pretty open to all ideas and are asking good questions. To get a little historical perspective on Mt. Hood, I point to Lloyd's article for the AAC from 1997: http://www.i-world.net/oma/news/rescue/athearn.html Eerily similar.
  23. Another accident on Hood

    I believe this is due more to USFS staffing than anything. There is no climbing ranger position in winter, so updates are less frequent. I have to wonder how many climbers take the time and effort to drive to Timberline only to see that printout and bag it. It is good to hear the nwac report is being used. I can pass this on. The climber's registration area will be redone in the near future. Possibly featuring unmanned drone vending machines.
  24. Another accident on Hood

    For those who are concerned about the "locater beacon" issue, you should be aware of House Bill 2509. It has been assigned to the Government Accountability and Information Technology Committee. There will be an initial public hearing on Feb 20th at 1:00 pm (That's tomorrow). Hearing Room E, Capitol, Salem. In 2005 Oregon Department of Emergency Management reported that 3.4 percent of all SAR missions were for climbers. 3 percent were for mushroom hunters. I am astounded the media has not picked up on these gripping mushroom hunter searches that also seem to be dominating OEM's time.
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