Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Stephen_Ramsey

  1. Thumbs up for half ropes. thumbs_up.gif


    Though a set of twins would be nice to have too, for waterfall and alpine ice.

  2. Your message doesn't indicate what you want to use the stove for (cooking or melting snow for drinking water).


    On trips where we melt snow for drinking water, and assuming no cooking (boiling), we can easily get by with about 3 oz of fuel per person, per day. If it is cold and windy, then the stove will run less efficiently and we'll use more like 4 oz per person, per day.


    Boiling a couple of liters will increase the usage, maybe up to 5 oz per person, per day? Just a guesstimate.


    Also, the type of stove will make a difference. My Simmerlite seems to have better "gas mileage" than my XGK, by almost an ounce per person, per day.

  3. In a Climbing magazine a while back, they had an article about people in New York City who rappel down elevator shafts in abandoned buildings, for fun. I guess it's kind of an underground sport/activity, since it is illegal.

  4. Thanks for the Trip Report and route info.


    I'm curious as to why you felt the route was really committing... do you feel it would simply not be possible to retreat from the ice cliff using a V-thread and some double-rope rappels? Would appreciate hearing your thoughts, as I'm contemplating heading up there. I had naively assumed the level of commitment was not too high.


    Also, do you feel it can be done with fewer screws? We were thinking about bringing 5-6 screws, and hoping to simul-climb through the ice cliff section using a reverso on a screw, in lieu of a belay. Is this a bad idea?



  5. I have the Exocet, and have used it for years. It is OK. My only real complaint is that it has only one ice axe loop, which is inconvenient when you have two ice tools (or two tools and a shovel, in winter). In my opinion, it is not really light enough to carry along in addition to your overnight pack, as a summit assault pack. But it is fine for day climbs and cragging. The buckle on the sternum strap tends to come loose, so you'll want to use tape or something to make sure it doesn't eventually fall off.

  6. Hi Alex,


    Nice trip report. Thanks for posting. Does the Kautz Glacier route go straight up the ice cliff? Or is it possible to skirt around the ice cliff and climb a chute off to the side?


    Thanks for any information.





    P.S., I don't know if you remember me, but I think we met on McClellan Butte. wave.gif

  7. Lemme see, an extra 160g of weight, just to save "up to 25%" on fuel efficiency (from MSR web page). When MSR claims "up to 25%", they probably mean under ideal conditions. In the real world it is probably quite a bit less. In terms of fuel, 160g of white gas is about 6.7 fluid ounces of volume. Assuming 20% efficiency gain from the heat exchanger (this is generous), you'd have to burn 33 fluid ounces worth of white gas, in order to save an amount of white gas equal to the weight of the heat exchanger. Since 33 ounces is enough fuel to melt snow for two climbers for a 4 day trip, it only seems worth it if you are going on a trip longer than 4 days (and you need to be melting snow all four of those days). Even at break-even, I'd favor just bringing more fuel because the heat exchanger is bulkier and (unlike fuel which you burn up) has to be carried out. I dunno, maybe it would be useful for long trips in the winter...

  8. i heard it is really easy to damage the shell of the alphas like by looking at them wrong or walking in sharp scree

    While stomping a belay platform on Horsetail Falls in Colordao, I accidentally punched a 1 cm hole in the top of my boot with a crampon tine. However, with a bit of sandpaper and seam grip, it was easy to repair. I never did try Dru's suggestion of using a soldering iron. wave.gif

  9. I belive Black Diamond/ Chris Harmston did some testing in relation to biners that were scooped from the base of El Cap and if my fading memory serves me right something like 99% of them passed all tests that new biners are subjected to.


    Lawgoddess, aid climbing has taught me to place protection better in general, I personally do not think that I would subject myself or my partner to a placement that I hold no confidence in.

    Hmmm... To get a result of "99% passing", they must have scooped at least a hundred biners (99% = 99 out of a hundred passed). I guess I'm going to have to make a booty-hunting expedition down to Yosemite...

  • Create New...