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Off_White

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Everything posted by Off_White

  1. I've locked this thread as it was about the two missing climbers and that has been resolved. If you'd like to eulogize Marc please use this thread: I've also split off Blake's remembrance of Ryan Johnson into his own thread:
  2. As a possible work around you could ask one of the moderators for whichever forum it is in to make the edit for you. I went and checked and I can edit old TR's.
  3. I know in the past there was an expiration date after which you couldn't edit posts, I don' t know if that's the case with the new software. @jon or @olyclimber might have a better answer.
  4. I dunno Gene, all that hop-and-stop jive doesn't look like fun. Sure, you've come down something steep and narrow with slippery things on your feet, but I'd much rather just plunge step it or rip big curves down some wider face. Sure, you could free solo R&D with roller skates on, but yeah...
  5. I heard the way he drove his wheelchair was very risky.
  6. This was suggested by my father-in-law for his funeral. Of course the other sister, not the one I'm married to, would have none of it.
  7. @Joe_Poulton I agree, which is why this thread is separate from the one about Marc and Ryan. It's natural for people to want to talk about risk, but this is not a critique of those guys, its a separate thread where folks talk about their own relationship to risk and climbing. We're actively trying to avoid the sort of muddle that's currently going on in the Supertopo forum thread about Marc and Ryan.
  8. I use old ropes for assorted fall protection stuff and work on the crag in my yard. Send me a PM and we can figure out me paying for shipping if you're willing. Thanks!
  9. I was just thinking that I was amazed no one had said this yet in this thread, but of course... A tip of the cap to you guv'nor.
  10. Thanks for the bump, this is a classic TR and super timely. How things change in just 10 years. To quote Marc: Seems to me he certainly did that. I only knew him through the virtual world and private emails, donated some cams to him when he lost his rack on his first foray on Slesse, but the world is a little bit dimmer without him in it.
  11. Loren, I didn't mean to tear the scabs off old wounds for you, I just thought the TR from that FA resonated well with this discussion. While it's true that none of us are getting out of here alive, and I personally lean in Choada's direction of not being in any hurry about it, the calculation about risk and reward with all the associated elements is deeply personal and I'm not inclined to second guess anyone's choices. I always liked this FA TR which is why it stuck in my head. I don't think we've ever met, but I had Jens K come climb in my yard and I was really impressed by his composure and level of calculation in onsighting difficult rock routes.
  12. New TR tool works great, really fast and pulls up matches as you type, refining it letter by letter. Be forewarned, you can get sucked down the rabbit hole and the next thing you know it's 3 hours later...
  13. I noticed he also liked 5K's "O, Fortuna!" suggestion, I might go that route. I kind of feel like I'm wearing that lead apron they put on you for dental x rays.
  14. Bill, I think events have made it very clear to Jens that luck plays a huge role. We live in a state of denial around that because it helps us to function, but sometimes events strip that illusion away. Sure, training, prep, and all that ala Messner makes a difference, but it's a fallacy that we're in control and if we just make the right choices everything will work out fine and predictably. For me, I think it was Craig Leubben's death in the relatlively mundane location of Torment's moat. a place many of us have been, that underlined the amount of random risk that defies preparation and planning.
  15. These guys got plenty of grief for the risk inherent in their FA on Johannesberg.
  16. I suppose there should never be any surprise, since none of us are getting out of here alive, but being concerned is one of the ways we offset the constant pall of mortality. Bob, if you disappeared while out flying I might not be surprised, but I'd sure be concerned. I'd miss you, you gruff old Pole.
  17. I think it's possible to cherry pick the "no old bold climbers" rule, but it does seem that objective hazards can only be somewhat ameliorated by skill and experience. Exposure to serious alpine risk over time can't help but increase your odds of untimely death. For every person like Jim Donini who's spent a lot of time out on the edge (and is still doing it, I think he's in Patagonia at the moment, and I don't mean Ventura CA) there are scores like my friend Guy Andrews, dead at 20 when things went sideways after the first alpine style ascent of the S Face of Aconcagua. I don't really think there's some disconnect between being impressed by someone's bold climbing and hoping for their safe return. I know several of our regional wunderkind like Colin Haley and Marc-Andre have written some very interesting pieces about risk and the desire to push things.
  18. Juneau Mountain Rescue's Facebook page seems to be the most up to date info on the search, no results yet. https://www.facebook.com/JuneauMountainRescue
  19. More discussion on Supertopo, including folks who know Marc's partner Ryan and are familiar with the Mendenhall Towers. No new real information though... http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3068145/Johnson-and-Leclerc-overdue
  20. The internet is fine, its people that are broken, and that's hardly breaking news.
  21. I keep looking everywhere for good news, or at least more news. I want to hope for a good outcome, but we all know the time elapsed and the odds. Fuck. As an aside, Alaskan newspapers do a better job of reporting on this stuff than down here in the lower 48.
  22. Seems to be down and out now
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