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bigwalling

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Posts posted by bigwalling

    Dru

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    It is the most popular harder aid route in Squamish. I doubt it is too bad. Even old 1/4" bolts can hold quite a bit. You could always just replace one of the 1/4"er's with a 3/8" stainless steel bolt.

    V420

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I'm wondering about this route. It is an aid route on the Upper Wall at Index. It climbs the arete to the right of 12 angery bees. Anyone know anything about it? Who did the F.A.? Has it seen any traffic?

     

    Jake

    Yellow Aliens

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Aleins are great! But that is for aid. Free clibing with them isn't near as good of an experiance as it is with tcus. They are just too flexible for free. But when it comes to aid they rule.

    Half Dome - - Direct NW Face

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Well, I haven't done it but I know that the free route varys from the regular aid route. Todd Skinners site has some good photos of the route. Of course he isn't aiding it. From what I have heard it has a way different feel from the regular route up the dome(you likely know that). People have also said tissack is a pretty good route. I think it has lots of bad bolts. Good luck

    aid leading Q&A

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    First off. Use 4 ascenders! If it's real aid that is what you will want. Try top stepping with only two aiders. It is very hard to stand there with one foot in the highest rung and clipping your next peice. As for hooks. I have 2 cliff hangers, 2 pointed cliff hangers, 2 talons, leeper flat, leeper pointed, metolius hook(not that great), fish hook, captian hook. I would like one more fish hook to add to the list. I like the pointed cliff hangers more than the regular. Bat hook holes are too shallow. And why spent $30 on a removable bolt when you can use a $10 hook. To get free hooks, look at the base of walls. Go with petzl ascenders. Or clean with one ascender and a gri gri. I haven't tried but will soon.

    real bouldering guide

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I think some areas need guides. Washington is not one. Lots of the boulder problems around here get cleaned and then just get covered in moss. I think that hard routes should be recorded. Like anythind V6/V7 and up. But the easier routes are not worth being recorded. Just climb and have fun! Jake

    Rockfall at Index

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Also anybody know anything about the aid route Kevorkian Death Cycle? In cramers book the topo says it starts at the top of steel monkey in the country. I saw steel monkey and it had three bolts and a bunch of webbing at a belay. But to the left there was a two bolt anchor with old webbing on it, right below the ledge system. Anybody what the two anchor bolt thing is for? Is it part of steel monkey or something else? Does the aid route start on top of the ledge?

    Jake

    Rockfall at Index

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Yeh the slings need to be left on Iron Horse. It isn't easy to get the webbing through the eye holes while freeing. So please leave them whoever has been taking them. I wanted to go and attemp thin fingers yesterday. But I couldn't make the time to go to index. Thank god I didn't go. I'm sick of rain!

    Free routes on Upper Wall

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I have been wanting to do one of the long sport routes on the Upper Wall at Index. Swim and Sisu are more at my level of climbing. So anybody got info on them? Also any beta Centerfold would be nice.

    [ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: bigwalling ]

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