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bigwalling

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Posts posted by bigwalling


  1. Are you fucking serious? Dean was an incredible person. One of the nicest guys I have ever known. He opened his home to me and was always a joy to be around. No one is perfect but I would have to say dean was a better person than your sorry ass will ever be. See you in hell chirp.


  2. I would have watched whatever show you could have been on Mikey. Probably would have enjoyed that more than whatever is on the TV these days... till you got voted off for not being a big enough drama monkey.

     

    Do you all really enjoy every part of your jobs? Does it make you a sell out because you still work there and get paid?

     

    I think plaidman should go on the show...


  3. "Many climbers today consider themselves bigwall climbers and advertise themselves in the media as such but are merely rappelling El Capitan and top-roping pitches turning the routes into high level, choreographed gymnastic routines. This is not Bigwall climbing!"

     

    -Brian McCray


  4. ! How about a nice cabled and laddered girdle traverse of El-Cap? Or a "progressive" route parallel to The Nose that the "average" climber could enjoy?

     

     

    Seriously, an average climber should be capable of climbing the Nose!


  5. I test using all the methods: bounce testing, daisy testing, fuckness testing, hand jerk testing... just depends on piece.

     

    I never recommend daisy chain falls... sorry if thats how I made it sound. Daisy chain falls are pure evil!

     

    What I was talking about is kinda off topic, but anyways...

     

    What I was referring to was, say you are on a pitch that has bodyweight gear. You have a piece in that you've tested and are standing on, you go to make the next placement and get it going. I clip my daisy into that lots of times (I clip it tight with fifi or biner). Because the piece you are standing on could fail and you are left hanging off the untested piece you were working on. It is likely that it will hold and save you from taking a whipper. I always try and avoid falling because I'm just weird like that.


  6. Don't forget the beer! Rope bags help clusterfuck. A good little trick to stacking it in the bag is, clip a biner above the bag and then feed it downwards into the bag. Or throw the rope over your shoulder and feed it that way. Way better than coiling it and shoving it in the bag. Though I still do that sometimes if I'm being retarded.


  7. God, the whole death thing is a part of aid climbing... Yelling you're going to die back and forth with aid climbers is something people have been doing for years! I've lost count of how many people told me I was going to die up there or that they better not have to scape my bloody carcass out of the talus. Guess what... it's all in fun!

     

     


  8. Ha, Eric used to make fun of me! Almost went and worked with him in Truckee doing ski grooming 5 years ago. I always got made fun of on climbing sites... never really cared that much. I was just some teenager posting a bunch of stupid stuff! I'd like to think I listened to better music that summitchaser though!


  9.  

    I'm going to disagree with the group on your aid climbing skills. On easy C1 aid it isn't unsafe/wrong to clip the rope without bounce testing. I mean when's the last time you bounce tested gear while free climbing? Good gear doesn't often fail and even if it does, theres so much gear below the fall will be mellow.

     

    What you are telling him to do is dangerous, if a piece does fail and your daisy chain is attached to the last piece, you are taking a daisy chain fall. Taking a daisy chain fall is not fun... Trust me! You can break/ruin a cam, bruise your kidneys, and all other sorts of not fun stuff. One of the main ideas of how you clip the rope in while aid climbing is based on avoiding the daisy chain fall. Sure it's unlikely to happen on city park, but still possible. I'm sure he will do more aid where this becomes more important.


  10. People love saying you need to take baby steps. Just get fired up and thrive off the nay sayers! It's a tall wall and you have to stay fired up and remember that if it sucks at times it's gonna be over within a week. The faster you dudes clean the better, cause you are gonna need both you to haul the bags for a while. Get a huge pulley.

     

    I had a strong partner, which was key to getting up the route in under 2 weeks.

     

    I'd go to Index before and climb Green Dragon, Dana's Arch, and Town Crier. If you can do these you can easily climb Mescalito if you stay motivated.


  11. The poster of this thread takes climbing way too serious and has now made it apparent that they are a stuck up elitist cunt! Way too put others down who are stoked on climbing anything they can. As long as people are excited on what they are doing, I'm happy to see it posted.

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