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Everything posted by bigwalling

  1. Mixed climbing

    Anyone know what the hardest mixed route(m-system) is in Washington and where it's at?
  2. Mixed climbing

    Doesn't matter. I'm just interested in knowing what our state has to offer in this form of climbing.
  3. 3 Top Routes?

    Aid: 1. New Route on Chief 2. I Shot the Sheriff 3. Something hard on El Cap
  4. Dru

    It is the most popular harder aid route in Squamish. I doubt it is too bad. Even old 1/4" bolts can hold quite a bit. You could always just replace one of the 1/4"er's with a 3/8" stainless steel bolt.
  5. V420

    I'm wondering about this route. It is an aid route on the Upper Wall at Index. It climbs the arete to the right of 12 angery bees. Anyone know anything about it? Who did the F.A.? Has it seen any traffic? Jake
  6. squamish this weekend

    If anyboby needs topos to Warriors of the Wasteland, or other aid routes I got them. [ 09-03-2002, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: bigwalling ]
  7. squamish this weekend

    North North Gully is interesting. I didn't go all thee way up it but the Promise Land is way cool.
  8. Yellow Aliens

    Aleins are great! But that is for aid. Free clibing with them isn't near as good of an experiance as it is with tcus. They are just too flexible for free. But when it comes to aid they rule.
  9. yosemite in september

    I will likely be there ealy october. Will hopefully be on the big stone!
  10. Half Dome - - Direct NW Face

    Well, I haven't done it but I know that the free route varys from the regular aid route. Todd Skinners site has some good photos of the route. Of course he isn't aiding it. From what I have heard it has a way different feel from the regular route up the dome(you likely know that). People have also said tissack is a pretty good route. I think it has lots of bad bolts. Good luck
  11. Aid soloing with gri-gri?

    Yos is right about the modifcations. I solo with the gri gri and love it. I tape the handle down to make sure it doesn't catch on the rope when falling. I use prusik loops about 2 feet long so the rope doesn't go back through. Heres a link to a better explanation of it. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?mode=viewtopic&topic=2062&forum=40&start=0 Pete knows the most about it on there. Hope it helps
  12. aid leading Q&A

    First off. Use 4 ascenders! If it's real aid that is what you will want. Try top stepping with only two aiders. It is very hard to stand there with one foot in the highest rung and clipping your next peice. As for hooks. I have 2 cliff hangers, 2 pointed cliff hangers, 2 talons, leeper flat, leeper pointed, metolius hook(not that great), fish hook, captian hook. I would like one more fish hook to add to the list. I like the pointed cliff hangers more than the regular. Bat hook holes are too shallow. And why spent $30 on a removable bolt when you can use a $10 hook. To get free hooks, look at the base of walls. Go with petzl ascenders. Or clean with one ascender and a gri gri. I haven't tried but will soon.
  13. real bouldering guide

    I think some areas need guides. Washington is not one. Lots of the boulder problems around here get cleaned and then just get covered in moss. I think that hard routes should be recorded. Like anythind V6/V7 and up. But the easier routes are not worth being recorded. Just climb and have fun! Jake
  14. Rockfall at Index

    Also anybody know anything about the aid route Kevorkian Death Cycle? In cramers book the topo says it starts at the top of steel monkey in the country. I saw steel monkey and it had three bolts and a bunch of webbing at a belay. But to the left there was a two bolt anchor with old webbing on it, right below the ledge system. Anybody what the two anchor bolt thing is for? Is it part of steel monkey or something else? Does the aid route start on top of the ledge? Jake
  15. Rockfall at Index

    Yeh the slings need to be left on Iron Horse. It isn't easy to get the webbing through the eye holes while freeing. So please leave them whoever has been taking them. I wanted to go and attemp thin fingers yesterday. But I couldn't make the time to go to index. Thank god I didn't go. I'm sick of rain!
  16. Free routes on Upper Wall

    I have been wanting to do one of the long sport routes on the Upper Wall at Index. Swim and Sisu are more at my level of climbing. So anybody got info on them? Also any beta Centerfold would be nice. [ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: bigwalling ]
  17. Free routes on Upper Wall

    Dude, I don't believe in coping out of the book. The stuff I have written is all in my own words. I could never get close to making something as nice as his book. I also don't intend to. Which parts are straight out of the book?
  18. index

    Heres some info off a site. I'm hoping to get on it real soon. I just got to find the time. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=3567
  19. I'm just wondering what people know about the free routes up there. Also any free routes on the Norwegian Buttresses of Mt. Index?
  20. Green Dragon Beta

    I want to try this route solo soon. Anybody got any beta on it. Gear list? Also anybody done the golden arch or chicken mcnuggets on the upper wall?
  21. He's also sponsored by metolius. I'm going tonight. I hope it's a good show.