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bigwalling

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Everything posted by bigwalling

  1. Anyone know what the hardest mixed route(m-system) is in Washington and where it's at?
  2. Aid: 1. New Route on Chief 2. I Shot the Sheriff 3. Something hard on El Cap
  3. It is the most popular harder aid route in Squamish. I doubt it is too bad. Even old 1/4" bolts can hold quite a bit. You could always just replace one of the 1/4"er's with a 3/8" stainless steel bolt.
  4. I'm wondering about this route. It is an aid route on the Upper Wall at Index. It climbs the arete to the right of 12 angery bees. Anyone know anything about it? Who did the F.A.? Has it seen any traffic? Jake
  5. I'm looking for info on a route called Straight White Male V 5.11d A4. Andrew Boyd did the first ascent. I am wondering where it is in Squamish? I'm assuming it's on the Chief.
  6. If anyboby needs topos to Warriors of the Wasteland, or other aid routes I got them. [ 09-03-2002, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: bigwalling ]
  7. North North Gully is interesting. I didn't go all thee way up it but the Promise Land is way cool.
  8. Aleins are great! But that is for aid. Free clibing with them isn't near as good of an experiance as it is with tcus. They are just too flexible for free. But when it comes to aid they rule.
  9. I will likely be there ealy october. Will hopefully be on the big stone!
  10. Well, I haven't done it but I know that the free route varys from the regular aid route. Todd Skinners site has some good photos of the route. Of course he isn't aiding it. From what I have heard it has a way different feel from the regular route up the dome(you likely know that). People have also said tissack is a pretty good route. I think it has lots of bad bolts. Good luck
  11. Yos is right about the modifcations. I solo with the gri gri and love it. I tape the handle down to make sure it doesn't catch on the rope when falling. I use prusik loops about 2 feet long so the rope doesn't go back through. Heres a link to a better explanation of it. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?mode=viewtopic&topic=2062&forum=40&start=0 Pete knows the most about it on there. Hope it helps
  12. First off. Use 4 ascenders! If it's real aid that is what you will want. Try top stepping with only two aiders. It is very hard to stand there with one foot in the highest rung and clipping your next peice. As for hooks. I have 2 cliff hangers, 2 pointed cliff hangers, 2 talons, leeper flat, leeper pointed, metolius hook(not that great), fish hook, captian hook. I would like one more fish hook to add to the list. I like the pointed cliff hangers more than the regular. Bat hook holes are too shallow. And why spent $30 on a removable bolt when you can use a $10 hook. To get free hooks, look at the base of walls. Go with petzl ascenders. Or clean with one ascender and a gri gri. I haven't tried but will soon.
  13. I think some areas need guides. Washington is not one. Lots of the boulder problems around here get cleaned and then just get covered in moss. I think that hard routes should be recorded. Like anythind V6/V7 and up. But the easier routes are not worth being recorded. Just climb and have fun! Jake
  14. Also anybody know anything about the aid route Kevorkian Death Cycle? In cramers book the topo says it starts at the top of steel monkey in the country. I saw steel monkey and it had three bolts and a bunch of webbing at a belay. But to the left there was a two bolt anchor with old webbing on it, right below the ledge system. Anybody what the two anchor bolt thing is for? Is it part of steel monkey or something else? Does the aid route start on top of the ledge? Jake
  15. Yeh the slings need to be left on Iron Horse. It isn't easy to get the webbing through the eye holes while freeing. So please leave them whoever has been taking them. I wanted to go and attemp thin fingers yesterday. But I couldn't make the time to go to index. Thank god I didn't go. I'm sick of rain!
  16. Dude, I don't believe in coping out of the book. The stuff I have written is all in my own words. I could never get close to making something as nice as his book. I also don't intend to. Which parts are straight out of the book?
  17. I have been wanting to do one of the long sport routes on the Upper Wall at Index. Swim and Sisu are more at my level of climbing. So anybody got info on them? Also any beta Centerfold would be nice. [ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: bigwalling ]
  18. bigwalling

    index

    Heres some info off a site. I'm hoping to get on it real soon. I just got to find the time. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=3567
  19. I'm just wondering what people know about the free routes up there. Also any free routes on the Norwegian Buttresses of Mt. Index?
  20. He's also sponsored by metolius. I'm going tonight. I hope it's a good show.
  21. I want to try this route solo soon. Anybody got any beta on it. Gear list? Also anybody done the golden arch or chicken mcnuggets on the upper wall?
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