bigwalling

Dude same thing with me. I placed a small camalot and my foot slid and my finger was stuck. God that hurt! I couldn't finish the damn thing.

The 2nd pitch on the Lizard. The fist crack is a pain for a first lead. It was my first lead and crack experiance. Never knew that there was a super easy route called the Great Northern Slab that feels alot easier that it's rateing. Pixie Corner in Squamish is a good first lead. If you have never touched a crack you might want to do something like G.N.S. or stuff everywhere in squamish.

Don't worry, I got a high powered rifle with a scope. I'll claim it was self defence.

The Sugar Loaf area is the best for easy soloing that I've found. Others that I'd like to do: Pixie Corner Davy Jones Cat Crack slabs in Malimute Jugs Slab There are a bunch of other things too. Pixie corner is a totally bomber finger crack and is the hardest thing on this list. I think 5.7 or so(no it's not 5.8 or whatever they rated it).

That think wooped my ass!

When I'm too pumped to clip, I've already pulled out enough slack to take a nice fall.

Thats pretty messed up!

I was wondering the same thing.

I also was never bashing them. Just noteing how easy that pitch in the picture is for him.

I'm not Darryl but NO! That route looks HARD. I wanted to do the first pitch a while ago and took one look at it and headed over to Abaraxas.

That was kinda my point in bringing up the my weak ass solos.

No my free solos are not the same! The 38 stuff was super easy and short. Maybe a 5.5 at Index. The stuff at Squamish was super easy too. But if I slipped it still would have sucked.

That pitch is still pretty easy for him. The guy has free soloed super hard routes that are looong. That part shown starts as .7 then .11 fingers to .8 hands (supertopo). So a guy like that would find it very easy. 5.11 is easy for Alex. He was climbing 5.12 cracks within a week of his first trad experiance! jake

No but I've free soloed 5.7. Of course the route was super short and it was at 38. Hubers done 14d, I've done 10-. So I'd feel comfertable at a level that much lower. That would be like 5.4/5.5 for me. Free soloed that stuff. But who hasn't?!? Have you heard what those guys do in the alps? 5.12+ onsight hand drilling on the lead. That's fricken crazy! I think he had 1 bolt on a 50m 5.12d pitch once.

How many of you guys on here have sent Thin Fingers? Japenese Gardens? Stern Farmer?

I'd go to Utah instead of Index too! I still want to see him try it or one of the other Squamish dudes.

Dru, Boyd is the closest trad climber that climbs 13c trad. Well so does Marc but not a f.a. Andrew could compare his route, 69 too see if it has a similer difficulty. He went to Utah last year so he must not be too concerened about leaving Squamish.

That part is only .11 so it is super easy for him! Not for me though.

City Park is super hard! Indian Creek doesn't even compare. Those are spilter parralel cracks! I think we need to have Andrew Boyd come down and try it. That way we would know how hard or easy it is. That guy tried Godzilla, one of the easier Index climbs and then goes to comment how easy City Park, the hardest trad route at Index, looks easy. Fucken Prick.

Sorry to hear that! I haven't had anyone that I was close to die at least not by an accident. It is a little different when they die at an old age. I wish the best for his family and friends.

Exchange rate will get you every time.

I got a bunch of cheap biners from BD directly once.

with who? Your hand?

aid you basterd