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HeadSpace

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Posts posted by HeadSpace

  1. While I was looking, I did stumble upon a gem that surprised the hell out of me. It was an absolutely stunning corner crack that looked to be hand, or slightly larger size that went up out of a broken corner, made a perfectly arching 90 degree turn to absolutely horizontal, went about 6 feet like that, then made a sharp 90 degree turn and straight up to a little ledge/slabby dome topout. I'd be surprised if this thing hasn't piqued someone's curiosity in the past, but appears as though it hasn't been climbed (at least in years) due to the presence of at least one death flake lower down, questionable rock in the broken corner, and a bunch of plants growing out of the corner, not to mention no evidence at all of a trail going to it. I didn't spend the time assessing whether you could reasonably do it all on gear (there was a gully on the left hand side that might serve as a walkoff), or whether it needs a bolt up high for the slabby dome topout (might be difficult), or whether it needs anchor bolts for rappel. If anyone's interested in plucking this gem, start at Special Spot, and traverse just under the various rock faces, through a notch that you can chimney through (or go through a tight tunnel), and keep going until you reach a prominent gulley. At this point you will see the crack; it's hard to miss....

     

     

    They're anchors on top. Take two ropes if you plan on leading. Slaphappy and I tr'd it some years ago. Probably a mid 10. Hasn't been led as far as I know. :tup:

  2. I was up there last year on my motorcyle. The rock quality isn't bad. It offers up pockets, edges and protectable cracks. Tony B. and I put in some anchors up there about 7-8yrs ago. There's also some good bouldering around the base. There's a route that goes up the W. face that's bolted(11+/12-?). It's worth looking at. There's also a natural spring that eminates from the base as well as good tent site atop Split Rock with sunset views of the San Juans. Elevation is around 3000'. That's all I have.

  3. i've been fortunate enough to climb with a female partner who was competent leading .12, both sport and trad. IMO women have a better sense of balance, better strength to weight ratio and smaller/slender digits. face it guys, as far as technical rock climb'n goes, nobody's repeated Lynn Hill's 24hr free ascent of the nose. women, when giv'n the proper training,make better climbers. flame on the_finger.gif

  4. rack all wires on keylock biners(no snags), all cams on wires gates(easier to clip) and don't over load your self with gear. i prefer racking gear on my harness, and some draws on a sling. ask your self what your after; freeclimbing? then climb damn it! leave the suitcase of gear to the vertical baggage handler's known as aid climbers. cantfocus.gif

  5. when i finish my sojourn in the southeast i'll be mov'n to l-worth and picking up skate skiing for the first time. any suggestions on gear/tips. i've been snowboarding since 89 and my cardio is good. planning on skating up the icicle this winter. any suggestions would be helpful. thanx bigdrink.gif

  6. in today's Wenatchee World classifieds': Couple needed for Iclce Camp Ground. Must have self-contained RV and be physically fit. Inquire at 8 Mile Camp Ground, site #17 or call (509)548-6816. thought i should pass it on......... bigdrink.gifsnugtop.gif

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