Rainier_Wolfscastle

Like the smaller grips on euro tools better. Going to get a pair of those instead. I've tried the leashless. Great for bolt protected mixed stuff, but not sold on long steep ice pitches yet. Too worried about getting pumped & falling.

Here's a superfly set of Cobra Ice tools. They have brand new Android leashes ($80 value alone). Tools are used but in good condition. Both tools have hammers (the preferred steep ice setup). I was going to put them on ebay, but decided to offer them here first to avoid the hassle. $350 + shipping.

Yeah, I've used the Androids for many seasons too, but they are not the best thing since sliced bread. Yes, you can unclip and grab the head of the tool, but that gives you one more scenario to possibly drop a tool. You may say that is unlikely, but shit happens.

BD lock down are good. New black material is thinner & slides easier than previous version. Petzl has a similar leash on there new Aztars. They look even better. BD twists are ok, but if you choose to use hands on rock instead of tool, and let the tool hang from leash/wrist, it will untwist. I don't think Androids are all the great for alpine. If you have the lower section fairly short, you can't reach the head of the tool for plunging without unclipping. If you keep the lower section longer so you can reach the head, it winds up being harder to grab the end of the clipper with your glove when you are trying to clip back in. However, for steep stuff the Androids are awesome. Just my .02

Thrift shops are the best place to find this stuff. Got my 80's retro ski suit there. I only had to pay full price for the mullet wig.

Just thought I'd pass this on for anyone who needs some inexpensive water ice poon's: http://www.sierratradingpost.com Search for Camp

Anyone used a pair of these? I was looking at them at the climbing shop. They are very light (20 oz each) & have comfy grips. I'm wondering if they are actually too light for wacking away at water ice?

Osprey Finesse backpack size medium. Good condition. No rips, tears, holes, or broken zippers. About 3000 cu. in. Single aluminum stay and delrin rod provide suspension. Very comfy suspension. Weighs 4 lbs. Top lid converts to a waist pack. Also comes with a Osprey Vector 1 attachment (clips on to back of pack and provides a beaver tail like pocket). This is a good pack for mountaineering, skiing, climbing, & backpacking (what my wife used it for). $70 + shipping. I also have a X-15 bent shaft ice tool for sale. Hammer head. Pick & tool in good shape. Comes with reverse curve pick (Stinger I think) This also tool accepts all current model BD ice tool picks. $60 + shipping

No one seems to publish the exact weights, but I did compare the BCA low fat's side by side with the ascension's and they are quite a bit thinner/lighter. They also fold up smaller if you are going to stash them in your jacket while descending. Here's a link to the BCA skins if you are interested http://www.bcaccess.com/bcaproducts/lowfat_skins.php

I have found that Mohair (Angora Goat hair) tends to grip a little better and does not ice up as much. Nylon is more durable and climbs almost as well. Given the choice at same price, I'd get nylon. If you are skinning steeper grades, be sure to get "wall to wall" carpeting for your skis. It may cost a little more to get full coverage (especially if you have fat boards), but it will payoff on the steep stuff. Nothing more frustrating than sliding backwards. If you are anal about weight, checkout the yellow BCA brand skins. They are thinner and lighter than Ascension brand, but also not as durable.

Yeah, saw those too. Great deal considering the picks cost $35 alone. The only thing I don't like about this tool is the sticky rubber all the way up. Leash loops tend to hang up on the rubber when you bring your hand to the top of the tool. I've seen people put Armourall on the rubber to make it smoother. My buddy put duct tape over the entire length. Looks bad but works OK.

Thank god for that 11 oz vest. Pack weight now 99 lbs instead of 100.

Does anyone ever use these? Anyone taken a fall on one that was placed in ice? I used to carry one, but never placed it. It also seemed kinda dangerous to have something this sharp dangling from your harness if you fell

Yeah, I can't quite pull 5.13 with my sneakers on anymore. Let's just call it 5.5+

Photo's and text here: http://www.supermikeosbourne.com/Albums/GrandEastRidge8_2_03/GrandEastRidge8_3_03.htm

We wound up doing the East Ridge last saturday car to car. Started at 3am from Lupine Meadows. We had a little trouble finding the start of the ridge but otherwise it all went well. We considered the first 200 feet of the route to be low 5th class which is not mentioned in the guidebook. After that, it was pretty easy to Molar tooth (good route finding challenges here). Getting around the Molar tooth is really cool. Lots of exposure and the first good rock we found on the route. The chockstone lodged at the top of this notch is the largest I have ever seen. The slabs above the Molar tooth have a ton of loose rock. Just the movement of the rope dislodged many little rocks to those below. Helmets are a must on this route! Passing the second tower was much easier and also had cool exposure. The slabs above this section contain more loose rock and are wet from snowfield run-off above. Easy climbing, but slippery, and not much pro available. Care must be taken in this section. Snowfield above was fairly easy with ice axe. I think we stopped and belayed for about 6-7 pitches total. The rest was simul-climbing or unroped. I'll post some digi-pics soon for anyone interested.

OK. That's good to know. The book says 115-120 ft or something like that. We were leading with two half ropes last time, so it was not an issue. Have a good one. Later, Mike.

We may go the first weekend in August. We're only 3 hrs away, so we'll see what the weather looks like & decide then. We'll probably drive up after work on Friday, sleep for a few hours and then get started (for car to car trips). We usually bivy at the Lupine Meadows parking lot. There is no campsite here, but if you arrive at night, alot of people just throw out a sleeping bag and pad in the meadow. We are planning on bringing a small rack, ice axe, 35m X 8mm rope, 35m X 6mm zip cord (for Owen rap), & maybe instep crampons. Those aluminum crampons sure are nice. Don't have a pair yet. You do know that the Owen/Spalding rap needs 230 ft of rope right? Apparently there is a 60m rope rap spot further right, but it is a rope eater.

No caption required http://www.empireonline.co.uk/news/news.asp?4818

My buddy & are planning on doing this route later this month also. We had planned to do the Black Ice Coulior, but apparently it is mostly a snow climb at the moment. We are big fans of car to car missions, so I think we are going to try that method on the East Ridge also. We've had some pretty good success doing it this way on the Exum & Cathedral traverse so far, so we'll see how it goes. We are taking a small rack, 35m X 8mm rope, 35m X 6mm zip cord (tie together for rap on Owen). Approach shoes, instep crampons, & ice axe each. Maybe we will see you guys up there. Do you know when you are going to be on the route? Later, Mike.

Don't aluminum crampon points bend when you kick them into ice? I'd like to get a pair, but fear trashing them on the first ice or rock I may inadventantly encounter. How about crampons with steel front points, and the rest aluminum? I wonder if that would work?

Sounds like the shoes sierra trading post were selling for $29 a pair. Lots of these on ebay too.

I had one of these. Overall, it's a really nice pack. Weighs just under 5 lbs empty, yet will carry 50 lbs comfortably. They only bad thing I noticed was the mesh side pockets. They are useful, but get torn easily by branches or rocks. The only other downside is the price. This thing is expensive compared to similar performing packs made by MEC/Serratus.

I had one of these. Overall, it's a really nice pack. Weighs just under 5 lbs empty, yet will carry 50 lbs comfortably. The only bad thing I noticed was the mesh side pockets. They are useful, but get torn easily by branches or rocks. The only other downside is the price. This thing is expensive compared to similar performing packs made by MEC/Serratus.

I thought you could just my a longer center bar from CM for these to fit larger feet?