Trav

Yeah for sure would like to check out the north side.

Yeah my tracks are on skier's left. Oh, and your beacon would never get out in the B.C. if someone else didn't use it for ya!

Actually the stumps are from salvage logging from the big burn of '94.

They ain't goin' ta drill!!

Has anyone been up Bonanza in mid April? If so what where snow conditions like? Considering this year's snow pack what about conditions in three weeks?

Check out Greybeard's north face.

Pocket seems better because it is not as stiff as the havoc. However the pocket rocket is stiff enough under foot for good control.

I did that route the Thursday before and encountered a deluge with pounding hail at the very same spot on the last crack pitch of the fin! Imagine that! It was about 1:30 PM. It was way too slick to make the friction move to the notch so I built a belay at at fixed yellow cam and brought up my partner. From there We lassoed a big horn at the notch with a bight of rope and my partner pulled himself up and belayed me while I did the same. We where soaked to the bone! It was kind of scary, sudden rain and hail out of nowhere.

Went up to try this route on Saturday. The lowest pitches starting at the boot pack had melted out quite a bit and where thin and looked difficult to protect. We where getting a late start so we bailed.

Are you just trying to stir the pot or be funny or something? Many people who live in and enjoy the Icicle want to keep it the way it is. Many think there is too much traffic now as it is. This uneeded and wasteful lab project won't do any good for anyone but a select few. Locals will speak out against this thing and hopefully it will not come to to pass.

What about all of the construction traffic and imrpovement to Icicle Road? This would surely limit access to cragging in the area. Amd there is already enough traffic in the icicle anyway.

Mount Cashmere and the all of the surrounding area need to remain as they are are. There are already labs such as this with scientists willing to share information. If this lab is built you you might as well not call it "Alpine Lakes Wilderness" anymore because of the traffic and constuction will make it a zoo. And not to mention serious issues with future access to all parts of the mountain. It seems highly hipocritical that some pseudo-local bigwigs who claim to be such environmentalists are in support of buliding this lab. It is sad when profits override principle. There are numerous obvious reasons for not allowing this lab to be built with the bulk of them being the intrests of climbers, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts.

Nice job! Is that post or pre climb drool?

I did the Entiat Icefall a couple of years ago and descended the walk up route on Maude to the south east. A decent trail was marked at the time with cairns. This trail takes you to another small basin South of the main Leroy creek basin then over a small pass back into Leroy creek basin. It took us about 45min to 1hour descend to Leroy creek this way. But if you camped at the col between 7Fingered Jack and Maude this descent would force you to hike back up and retrieve your camp unless carried over. But this still might take less time than negotiating the gullies.

I though it was OK up till the section with the old rotten yellow fixed sling. There I had to think and grunt a little harder. Overall a bit strenuous.

Aasgard is snow free. I wore sneaks and my feet never got wet. There is still snow in the upper Enchantment basin but it is firm enough to walk on top off.

On Sunday Robbe Anson and I climbed S. Face of Prusik with great weather. We started in a crack left of the 5.8 version. This start was 5.10 at least and took us up to the middle of the trees on the second pitch so we climbed the first two pitches as one. Great jams and a really fun pitch. This was the only deviation we took from the described route in the guide books. Overall a great climb on beautiful rock. We saw one party starting up the route behind us but that was all. Approach over assgard was fine with a well beatten path through all sections up to Prusik pass. I was surprised to see so few people on a holiday weekend and was even more surprised that we were able to get permits for camping.

Too damn funny But also quite profound

Bobby, We have three going in on Sat. afternoon, So if you can make it then two parties of two. Bring a rack though: We will have two ropes and a rack with us already.

Here is a link to the pics. web page

How did Stuart glacier couloir look?

I know It's spur of the moment but I need a partner for Backbone ridge on Dragon tail this weekend. If interested please reply before Saturday. Trav

Photos from this climb coming soon.

Looks like the best ice all year on TC. Lingering cold conditions have made for a great alpine season this spring. Nice job!

I was thinking maybe early to mid June so maybe the snow pack would be consolidated and the nights would still be cold enough to keep most of the stuff in place. I say the route when I did Mazama glacier a couple of years ago and it looked really cool.