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MATT_B

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Everything posted by MATT_B

  1. MATT_B

    Sacajawea Theory

    "The Sacajawea Theory, in short, is that all newborn babies really need is boobs. Everything else is just marketing." In the last 2.5 years I've had 2 hatchlings. I'm amazed at how much stuff we have acquired. My wife and I have tried to keep things to a minimum. From what I can tell, we have been more restrained than most but we still have a lot of junk.
  2. I would love to see some close up before and after pictures. I'm not convinced that this is a good thing. To me, it sounds they may have gone a bit overboard.
  3. 3 sisters with or without broken top and bachlor
  4. Mathes Crest or the Minerets in California
  5. MATT_B

    Where to honeymoon?

    I've always wanted to go see Copper Canyou in Mexico. Probably still kind of hot in early September though. . .
  6. It was natural so maybe you couldn't call it "fixed". great story none the less (see 50 classic climbs of north america).
  7. - rotton log on royal arches, now gone - bolts on last pitch of the nose, don't think any of the origionals are left but there were some old ones when I was there - the iron spikes used of the first ascent of .5 dome, if I rember the story correctly those where left fixed. - anchor bolts on the durance route on devils tower - The one of the few climbs I have done at index had some masive iron rings for anchors. I assume those are from the old mining days or something
  8. Good one. Too bad the "evil tree" wasn't still up there.
  9. I always liked the old bolts on the pioneer route and west face of monkey face. The old pins pounded into the bolt holes on Stines pillar where kind of crazy too. I think those are all or mostly gone now. Giants stair case on French's dome had some cool old bolts. I also liked the big bolts set in concrete on top of rooster rock in the Columbia gorge. For better or worse you see less and less of that mystery mank now days.
  10. Have not done the rout but in my experience that is what they call 5.7+ at J-tree
  11. Maybe a dumb idea but can you trun it around and use the other side? How wide is the board? Maybe you could take it to a wood shop the has a large thickness planer or sander.
  12. Directions or not, it doesn't really matter to me. Could I sugest you at least give an explination of why there are not specific directs in the guide. Something like what you wrote above. Sounds like it's not too hard to find but an outsider that isn't in the know may be a little ticked when they don't find directions as a typical guide would have. Personally I think I'll go with the tradition and try to find it on my own.
  13. MATT_B

    Dirtbag Manifesto

    Stock up on food, wood, gas, water (if necessary), etc in the bigger towns before you head to more remote locations. Better selection and usually lower prices. I would assume that you have at least a rough idea of where your going. Do a little research and asking aroud for specifics on those places. Don't completely dismiss the idea of paying to camp. Some times you don't save all that much when you start to think about the extra gas especially if you end up making an extra trip into town to fill up. The time and comfort of staying put for a while may also make it worth paying if the price isn't too high. So, where ya going?
  14. What do you want to study? Any reason to limit it to OSU or U of O? I went to OSU. The gym kind of sucked back them but I hear they built a new one. Was "free" to students too. Closest 1/2 way decent rock is the Columns in Eugene. Smith was about 3 hours. The town is definetly quieter than Eugene.
  15. It's not all that technical but the Zion Narrows hike is a cool way to spend a long day or maybe better, two days. It is 16 miles with a good chunk of it trudging down the middle of the river as aposed to a trial on the side of the river. There was one swim for us and a number of places wading water up to your waste. We did it in September so it will be colder (too cold?) for you. In addition to that I second what Alpinedave said.
  16. Did they at least pay you for those two hours?
  17. Mabye they are worried that someone would try to lead on it not knowing it is a static line or not knowing that leading/falling on a static rope is bad.
  18. Thank you for all the suggestions. Unfortunetly I cant really write a real TR. We got there too early to bother skiing any of the resorts. Heavenly only had a couple lifts running. We went up to Hope Valley with XC skis. It's really nice up there. 200 yards in my binding broke. Fortunetly there was only 18 inches of snow to walk through back to the car. Spent the rest of the trip mostly being lazy and letting the kidlets play in the snow and still had blast.
  19. Nice picks!!! It's a fun route even though it'smostly a bolt ladder. We did it in 3 pitches to the cave and hauled a small bag. I was suprised how steep the second pitch was when we cut the bags loose and they swing way out. It would be fun to do as a party of three; I want to jug the free line on the second pitch. A couple of you have mentioned cam hooks. Is the rock as smith hard enough for cam hooks? Anyone ever blow out a placement with one at smith? I know they are a no no in zion but that place is a bit softer than smith. Just a thought.
  20. 9. You tell everyone that your going to climb (insert route name) next and they have to get in line but your still climbing the route next to it.
  21. MATT_B

    Happy Halloween

    Happy Birthday to you. Mine too! It was really cool as a kid you got candy and birthday presents. Now that I get to stay out late and take a midterm. Too bad it isn't an "official", day off type holiday. Who schedules a midterm on halloween? I should be stealing my kids candy.
  22. What the fuck is culture? A bunch of yuppie restaraunts and some overpriced outdoor shops (Boulder, Jackson, Bend etc.)? Layton set the criteria, not me. Not that I don't agree with you. I would go for quite small town before places like Boulder, Jackson and Bend.
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