tread_tramp

A few years back a couple friends and I went up there and did the west ridge. My buddy Tom had stopped in marblemount on wed. to see if he could score a permit. When told that he hd to be within 24hrs to get the permit he said we were going to be up ther thurs-sun. I never heard Tom talk such bull-shit as when the rangers interrogated us at our Boston Basin camp. after several calls back to HQ, they finally told us that everything appearted to be in order. After summitting Tom found a blue rope bag in the couloir with some initials on it. What does NPS-NOCA mean? I store my tent in that handy bag. ralph

watch out for the gramer cops

I'm with SK On the Henry's Blue Boar Ale. That's my drink of choice when not drinking some premium brew.

There is also a flat area next to a large crag just above the steep scramble down to the Ruth-Icy notch. Last August it was still snow covered. instead of going down the gully, look for a cairn off to the left, indicating a good way to get down to the notch. Spectacular views of the noth side of Shuckson.

Rodchester, There is one other camping option that saves having to lug full packs all the way into Glacier Basin. Just before reaching the collapsed bridge north of the old townsite there is a public campground up a spur road on the left. I've enjoyed camping in the basin many times but have also used the campground and just taken day packs for climbing in the basin.

In 88 I was up there in the middle of May. We opted to travers north to south. After camping on a slope (5600')on the south Brother. We traversed through a notch at 6300' and down into the eastern basin and traversed across to a steep gully ascent of the north peak. the top is just a rock scramble. I remember some exposure in spots. With the weather changing we bailed from the notch. the north approach to the south peak appeared to be a fairly steep slope above an enormous cliff. I think I would prefer going up it to coming down. So my preference is a north to south traverse. I'll be leading a trip of Seattle Mounties up the south peak a week from now. Take that as a warning if you would like.

About this time a couple years back, while descending the east face of Mt. Washington in the Olympics, a glissade triggered a sluff which evolved into an avalanche. So that's what raggedy anne feels like, getting tossed around. I managed to thrash around enough to stay on top of the slide and roll to the edge after a 500 foot adrenaline rush. One must be careful what they are sliding into.

I've got an old pair of Asolos that might do the trick.

XXII

Whatever makes you Happy...

Back on the issue of a self-tending prussik; there is a prussik alternative called the bachmann knot which will not jam in the pulley. It is tied with a series of wraps of the prussik sling around the spine of a carabiner and the rope. Freedom Of The Hills shows an illustration of it in its section on knots.

Ah, the sacred Mount Biffington that pilgrims trek to from pubs far and near.

That sweet odor can't be the stench of decay. This tread hasn't finally died has it?

The same mountain that you describe in your picture appears in the picture taken from south of the Monte Cristo group on p. 66 0f the green CAG. It is on the horizon to the right of Baker. Although unnamed in the photo I am sure that it is Shuckson. Ralph

Twice I've done the Nada Lake approach to Temple Canyon. Three times, come to think of it. Ther is a bit of climbing through the trees but other than that it is a scramble and a pleasant walk up the slabs toward Tamarack meadows. Last time we climbed the North side of High Priest and Temple and then traversed across to Prusik Pass and looped down through the Enchantments. The traverse was without a path and some looser rock here and there. A great trip though.

woops' wrong page and a bit slow on the draw.

Is this thity-one?

When I saw the original post by ers72735 I checked his profile and saw "farmer" listed as occupation. So I assumed that the s of ers may stand for Shultz and that it could be the response of a close paternal relative of Jim's. So I felt that it was a rather valid comment coming from such a source.

On two occasions, once on the emmons and once on the kautz, I've done the climb with a 30 meter 8.5 mil rope. Both times I had just one other climber on the rope. I haven't yet tried three on that length of rope, though Jim Nelson (who sold me the rope) thinks it's adequate. As far as depending on other climbers on the route for your safety, I think that you should plan on self-sufficiency, and then if others come to your aid, that much the better. Generally two rope teams is a safe minimum for a glacier climb, especially on the bigger mountains.

Must be thinking like Moron. Already cashed mine in on a Voile shovel to replace the plastic one that doesn't do well when hitting ice.

lightly climb the ridgeascending the windblown crustdown comes scott' and pals trudge above the treesgusts carry off the mundanesummit then come down